Thought I'd post up some pics of the truck I'm getting ready to do for a kid. I'll take pictures of it along the way. It's a 2010 F150 Super Crew and we will be keeping the factory SYNC headunit. It's going to be a long day but the end result will be nice.



System Components:

Caché COE6 - Allows you to add amps to factory radio and gives an 8 volt output on the RCAs to make your amps scream!
Diamond Audio D600.4 - 4channel amplifier with 90 watts per channel
Diamond Audio D600.1 - Subwoofer amp with 600 watts at 1 Ohm
Diamond Audio D662S - 6 1/2" Component speaker system (can mount tweeters on the woofer on Coaxial configuration
Diamond Audio D171i - 5"x7" Coaxial speakers for the rear doors
Diamond Audio D110D4.2 - 10" Subwoofers
Sub Enclosure for two 10s
Raptor 1/0 Gauge dual amplifier installation kit
3 Sets of premium RCAs to go from COE6 to amplifiers

 

How do you like that Cache unit? Work well?

 

I really like it. Very simple for installation. The first one threw me for a bit since I had forgotten to change the jumpers inside the unit to run the subwoofer out when you are only running front and rear inputs. I spend quite some time checking RCAs and connections only to find that I didn't change the jumper. READ THE MANUAL!!!! LOL The bass **** they give you can be unscrewed from the bracket and just mounted through the dash. They even give you a second sticker so you can stick in on the dash. Here's the one I just finished up today.



I'll post up the entire install of the system here in a bit.

 

OK. As posted before this is an entire Diamond Audio installation that I did for a kid's 2010 F150 Super Crew. Here it goes.

Here's the truck


Here's the complete package


Here's what your factory speakers look like in the F150 if you've never seen them. Simple dual cone speakers made out of paper.




The only real place to put the crossover was right at the back of the arm rest. There are quite a few open spots in the sheet metal behind the vapor barrier so I use some back strapping and some speed clips to make a mount for the crossover.




The factory 6x8 hole needed to be covered up so I made some speaker adapters out of 1/4 MDF to hold our midbass driver. Nothing pretty but it gets covered up and serves it's purpose.


Here's the drivers door with everything installed


Flush mounted the tweeter high up by the top of the door at ear height.


Just a note for everyone that installs tweeters. Make sure to leave a way to disconnect the tweeter when removing the door panel. I find so many installs that leave me no way to unplug the tweeter.


On your 09 and up F150s the battery is on the passenger side. There is a grommet on the firewall and you can run your wire right through it.




The 1/0 Gauge power wire fits nicely right into the track to the rear.


Everything mounted up in the rear. I made panels out of 1/4" MDF and even went the extra step to carpet them. The amps have to be mounted low to clear for the seats. The seats slide up and down and compress to the wall when you lift the seat bottoms. Mounting low is the only way to get them in there.






I mounted the bass **** to the Cashe COE6 into the dash. They give you a sticker you can put on it but I left it as basic as I could.


Subs mounted in the box

 

That looks great! If I pm'd you at somepoint for advice, is there anyway you could give me some insight on a small system?

 

I am in similar process of mounting my new amp, I like the look you did with this job. I have a 2010 F150 Screw xlt, pulled seat down, pulled back wall carpet/padding to see what Im dealing with. I see the cross support beam there midway up the wall, appears that is where you mounted the 1/4" mdf to. I have some questions that could really assist me in this process:

1. Did you mount over the existing backwall carpet/pad or did you cut the carpet/pad in order to make space for the carpeted 1/4" mdf you made and in order to gain a bit more room for the amp clearance?

2. Did you secure the 1/4" mdf anywhere else to the back wall or the seat bracket or elsewhere other than the visible screws in the pictures? i.e. the passenger rear side has 3 black screws near top/above the amp, are there any other screws holding in the 1/4" mdf to the backwall i.e. near the bottom of the 1/4" mdf or elsewhere? Or for that matter liquid nails or other? Or is the thought here the weight of the amp plus the seat pressure will assist in holding the bottom part and will not cause a rattle?

3. Any concern about placing the 1/4" mdf and for that matter the amp directly over the factory vents in the backwall?

4. what size/type hardware (screws/nuts/bolts/etc) did you use to mount the mdf? and what hardware did you use to mount the amp to the mdf?

5. what length of rca's did you use going from the amps to the head unit? I dont want to end up short nor do I want 3 ft of excess. I rough estimated approx 13 ft?

BTW great post, read through it all and I think its awesome that you did this for this young man at an inexpensive price. Two thumbs up, an ataboy, a pat on the back, and then some to you sir, much respect.

Alex

 

Looks real good whats an install like that run usually?

 

Thank you for this information. I was wondering why not use 5x7s for front door also? I only ask because I'm new to stereo and would like to follow your install with the same equipment. I would also like to know if you ran new speaker wires and if so what type of wire do you recommend? Can you give us your over all opinion on how this system sounded in the truck as I'm not looking to go thumping down the road but would like a crisp clean sound in my audio not like the muddy sound the stock system has. Thanks for your time and help!
Scott

 

Sorry I missed this. My distributor did not carry the 5x7 D6 series components at the time. Plus they had a discount on the D6 6.5 components anyways. It would have saved a little time to just simply bolt new 5x7 speakers into the spots but that would have been just too easy. I used the existing wiring for the speakers. We're only running about 60-75 watts of power through them. No need to go through the headache of running wires through the camber-lever door harness sockets. That's a nightmare in itself.

As for audio quality this truck sounds amazing. I have a pretty great sounding system in my Excursion. I run four sets of components (kick panels, front doors, rear doors and rear panels) and I have two 15s most the time in the back. I run two 2000 watt amplifiers for the subs as well as two 150 watt x4 amps for the components. I find most the time I install an audio system into a customers vehicle it sounds great but it never seems to match up with what I have in my truck. Just my opinion because I'm in my Excursion all day long. I kind of think it's like no hotel bed is as good as your one at home. However when I fired this truck up I was almost tempted to gut my entire DB Drive audio system out and go with Diamond Audio. I found myself listening to song after song like it was new music to me. A major player in the system is that Cashe speaker level inverter/line driver. It takes the speaker wires from the factory radio into it boosts the RCA audio signal to the ampler a full 8 volt input. This translates into a much stronger and clearer signal that comes out of the amplifier to the speakers. It's kind of like nitrous to the engine. The 10 inch Diamonds have a long travel to them for the R&B yet still have a good punch for the quick beats of rock.

This young kid was into all kinds of music. From the hard hitting street dirty rap, a little rock and alternative to throwing in a couple Johnny Cash CDs. The system performed perfectly with each song. The addition of the bass **** in the dash comes into play with all the diversity of music.

 

Looks great. Travis your work is top notch. I'd love to pick your brain on a small issue I'm having sometime.

 

Great setup and awesome install!!!

I've always been a die hard fan of the DA HEX components. Good stuff!