How-To: Big 3 Upgrade (Extremely Pic-Heavy)
#46
04-12-2010, 11:51 PM
hi guys,
I recently did the big3 upgrade and i did mine as follows.
Green - Negative batt (-) to Chassis
Red - Positive batt (+) to Alt (Fused)
Blue - Negative batt (-) to Engine block
Is this a correct way of doing it? I have some wire left over, did i miss anything?
thanks guys!
I recently did the big3 upgrade and i did mine as follows.
Green - Negative batt (-) to Chassis
Red - Positive batt (+) to Alt (Fused)
Blue - Negative batt (-) to Engine block
Is this a correct way of doing it? I have some wire left over, did i miss anything?
thanks guys!
I cleaned up that Big cab to frame ground back of the cab as well. Not sure if that helped, but all and all, it turned out good.
#48
04-14-2010, 04:01 PM
Cool step by step write up. I like the attention to detail and colored guidelines.
A couple things to add though:
1) Wires under the hood must have protection of some sort. Proper looming is critical for safety.
2) The fuse must be rated for what the wire is rated for, not just any amount between 200 and 300. If the wire is rated for a maximum of 250A, it would make zero sense to put a 300A fuse on it.
I strongly recommend the frame to chassy ground. The stock one is like 12awg. I was amazed at how small it was when I swapped to 1/0. While for some it may not be necessary, many people ground their large sound systems straight to the frame for a nice clean ground so this 4th wire is one that really should be upgraded anyways. So theoretically it should be called "the big 4 upgrade"
Comparison:
Installed:
Just posting the picture for those who want to direct replace this wire instead of running it to the battery post.
Otherwise, nice job man.
A couple things to add though:
1) Wires under the hood must have protection of some sort. Proper looming is critical for safety.
2) The fuse must be rated for what the wire is rated for, not just any amount between 200 and 300. If the wire is rated for a maximum of 250A, it would make zero sense to put a 300A fuse on it.
I strongly recommend the frame to chassy ground. The stock one is like 12awg. I was amazed at how small it was when I swapped to 1/0. While for some it may not be necessary, many people ground their large sound systems straight to the frame for a nice clean ground so this 4th wire is one that really should be upgraded anyways. So theoretically it should be called "the big 4 upgrade"
Comparison:
Installed:
Just posting the picture for those who want to direct replace this wire instead of running it to the battery post.
Otherwise, nice job man.
thanks!
#50
04-14-2010, 07:02 PM
#51
04-16-2010, 05:20 PM
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#52
05-21-2010, 02:52 PM
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#54
06-05-2010, 06:30 PM
Couple questions.
My factory engine block ground appears to run to a starter bolt under the car. For my big four upgrade, wouldn't it be better to run the thicker wire directly to the frame instead of the same starter bolt? The chassis-frame ground is pretty close.
I noticed that a lot of people ground the battery to the chassis, but wouldn't it be better to ground it to the frame as well? Yes, I know the chassis is connected to the frame, but it seems like going direct to the frame would be the lowest resistance.
My factory engine block ground appears to run to a starter bolt under the car. For my big four upgrade, wouldn't it be better to run the thicker wire directly to the frame instead of the same starter bolt? The chassis-frame ground is pretty close.
I noticed that a lot of people ground the battery to the chassis, but wouldn't it be better to ground it to the frame as well? Yes, I know the chassis is connected to the frame, but it seems like going direct to the frame would be the lowest resistance.
#55
06-05-2010, 10:50 PM
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Couple questions.
My factory engine block ground appears to run to a starter bolt under the car. For my big four upgrade, wouldn't it be better to run the thicker wire directly to the frame instead of the same starter bolt? The chassis-frame ground is pretty close.
I noticed that a lot of people ground the battery to the chassis, but wouldn't it be better to ground it to the frame as well? Yes, I know the chassis is connected to the frame, but it seems like going direct to the frame would be the lowest resistance.
My factory engine block ground appears to run to a starter bolt under the car. For my big four upgrade, wouldn't it be better to run the thicker wire directly to the frame instead of the same starter bolt? The chassis-frame ground is pretty close.
I noticed that a lot of people ground the battery to the chassis, but wouldn't it be better to ground it to the frame as well? Yes, I know the chassis is connected to the frame, but it seems like going direct to the frame would be the lowest resistance.
#56
06-07-2010, 01:00 PM
Fair enough, but alternator mounting bolt to starter mounting bolt is an engine block to engine block connection. I can't see where the starter bolt grounds to the frame or chassis.
#57
06-08-2010, 01:50 AM
Negative Battery Terminal is grounded to the chassis via a short run to sheet metal under hood
Negative Battery Terminal is connected to engine block via a bolt on starter underneath the truck.
Bolt on starter has a second wire that grounds to the frame underneath the passenger side front wheel well.
Chassis is grounded to frame via a non-insulated wire braid just behind front passenger wheel.
So, with that detailed out, here is what I'm thinking about doing is keeping all factory wiring and running 1/0 along side it with one exception: Instead of running 1/0 from negative terminal to starter bolt and then 1/0 from starter bolt to frame, I'm thinking of running 1/0 from negative terminal to starter bolt and then 1/0 from negative terminal to frame. The reason being is that it's pretty crowded down there and I don't think I can squeeze two runs of 1/0 to the starter bolt. Thoughts?
