I would like to replace my stock foglight bulb's with 9005's 65 watt halogen's regular white bulb's,so they match headlight's.
Does any have any pro's or con's regarding this ? I don't want to melt or fry anything up.I'm also going to see what Roger has to offer in the online store.

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2001 Supercrew XLT 4X4
BLACK W/DARK GRAPHITE
5.4 EFI V8
17" 10 SPOKE'S
3.55 LIMITED SLIP
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
SKID PLATE'S
POWER MOONROOF
SLIDING REAR WDW.
TRAILER TOW PKG.
BED EXTENDER
CLOTH CAPTAIN'S CHAIR'S
STAINLESS STEP BAR'S
GIBSON SWEPTSIDE
WINDOW TINT
VENT VISOR'S
LINE-X-BED LINER
FORD MOLDED MUD FLAP'S
K&N FILTER
HUSKY FLOOR LINER'S
HEADLIGHT/FOG SWITCH MOD.
BFG 265/70/17 AT/KO

 

I just found out today that the 9006 is a direct replcaement. Not sure of the 9005s though.

 

by the way, the 9005 and 9006 are basically the same, one designed as a hi-beam,one as a lo-beam. The 9006 is typically used, but a 9005 should work as well.

 

the worst that should happen is you blow a fuse..nothing should fry but if you are worried about it you could wire in an inline fuse maybe one a bit smaller than the one in the fuse box so nothing will happen..the only thing i can think of if they arent a sealed bulb and u use the existing lense assembly maybe the lens will discolor quicker because of th ehigher temp created by the bulbs?

 

I forgot to mention the 9005's are a high beam replacement bulb 65 watt.
The 9006's are a low beam replacement bulb 55 watt's.
I know the 9005 will work according to another member if you file down 1 of the tab's the bulb slightly.

 

Just to clear some of this issue up. I have the 9005 bulbs in the fog assembly and fit perfectly. I cannot fit the 9006 bulbs in the hole, the base of the light is alittle thicker. I've been using the fogs in town and never had any problem with blinding other drivers or any melting problems.

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1999 F250 LD S/C XLT 4x4
5.4L, 3.73, 4R100 trans.
Flowmaster 40 "DF" series, K&N, Superchip, WMS Velocity Tube, Rancho RSX shocks, Hellwig rear swaybar, Stull billet grille, 2-PIAA Pro80XT's (120W), 2-KC Daylighters (150W)
265/70 R17 BFG AT KO's on 17x8 American Racing Atlas rims
Kenwood 7007 CD, Alpine 3342 Signal Processor, Alpine MRV-F353 5Ch. Amp, Pioneer TS-A6865 3-way speakers, MTX Thunderforms. CompuStar alarm/autostart. On the way: Performance Accessories 3" body lift, 33/12.5/17 ProComps, GSP grille guard or PIAA airdam.

 

Jupiterak,

Are they the 9005 PIAA's? I got the 9007's a month ago, and am lookin for the 9005 fogs to match the white head lights. I wonder if 4 Wheel parts has the fogs? Guess I can find out when I pick my truck up tomorrow.

------------------

Patrick aka Mudder or MR.Daylighter of Arlington Texas (D/FW), member of the Texas Chapter club DAYLIGHTER edition F150 ®, Black 98 S/S S/C F150 4x4 0RP 5.4 V8 3.55ls, Ramsey Pro 8000 hidden winch, Grizzly roll bar, Superwhite Bulbs, 2 Baja back up lights, 2 KC 57 Series 5x7 100 watt long range lights, 2 KC 55 watt fog lights (all-season kit) 10 165 watt KC Daylighters, 2 chrome, 4 Stainless, 4 black ( with 14 KC's, I come alive at night), Manik grill guard, Westin step bars, Rhino Taillight guards, Magnum bug shield, Sonic aluminum treadplate 36" tool box, Flowmaster 40 series dual exhaust, Airaid High Flow system, Edelbrock IAS shocks, 285/75/16 BFG AT/S KO, American Racing Baja wheels, Pro Comp headlight blackouts, Red Top Optima battery, personalized plates, Cobra 18WXST CB radio with 3' whip antenna, Escort Laser/Radar detector, Nokia cell phone, a Mobil Speed Pass on the back window, 3 F150World stickers, a Texas Chapter of F150World.com sticker, a BIG KC block sticker on the back window and a DAYLIGHTER sticker on the front windshield, and yes, I also have been infected with the infamous door crack. More to come for the Daylighter: JBA headers, superchip, 1 more Daylighter for the front, 2 KC reverse Lights, a Lighted Ford tailgate logo, and a 4" Rancho suspension lift (yes boys and girls, it's just about time). If you would like to see pics, email me at Mudder@TexasChapter.com
Also the Moderator of the Ford Trucks vs. GM trucks and Ford trucks forum over on fordvschevy.com so check it out.
Check out the Toughest SOB in the WWF crush the Rock's Lincoln: http://www.amta.net/files/sc-2.avi
OH HELL YEAH!

2 BRT 4U "Go ahead, flash your brights at me, see what will happen."

Got light?
It's a KC thing.....you wouldn't understand.
Candlepower to date: 4,214,000. Gonna add more soon.

See all my pics at my zing.com site: http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4294059243

Also check out www.F150World.com/Mudder

 

Mudder,
the 9005's I bought were off the shelf halogen sylvania 65 watt. GE works well also.
I also seen wagner bulb's at the local farm store.
Are you getting that lift thing done ?
How kick a$$ is that. Can't wait to see pic's.

 

Yeah, I pick it up today around 5 at 4 Wheel Parts. I can't wait, I'm so excited. I have been driving everybody crazy these last couple days...lol

 

Mudder,
No, I have some Sylvania's in the headlamps and foglights. I haven't had the nerve to fork out $130-150.00 for two sets of PIAA bulbs yet.

------------------
1999 F250 LD S/C XLT 4x4
5.4L, 3.73, 4R100 trans.
Flowmaster 40 "DF" series, K&N, Superchip, WMS Velocity Tube, Rancho RSX shocks, Hellwig rear swaybar, Stull billet grille, 2-PIAA Pro80XT's (120W), 2-KC Daylighters (150W)
265/70 R17 BFG AT KO's on 17x8 American Racing Atlas rims
Kenwood 7007 CD, Alpine 3342 Signal Processor, Alpine MRV-F353 5Ch. Amp, Pioneer TS-A6865 3-way speakers, MTX Thunderforms. CompuStar alarm/autostart. On the way: Performance Accessories 3" body lift, 33/12.5/17 ProComps, GSP grille guard or PIAA airdam.

 

Click Here for Sylvania's Application Guide for 2000 F-150s

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--Lariat4WD--

2000 Ford F-150 Extended Cab Flareside 4x4 Lariat
5.4L;auto;3.55LS;Black/Silver;ORP;remote keyless;floor-shift 4wd;Class III;AM/FM/SingleCD
Mods so far:
Lund X-Terminator bug shield; Vent Shade Vent Visors; Westin Black step bars; Pendaliner bedliner; GSP black Safari Grille Guard; GTS TailBlazerII Slotted taillight covers; Clear corner lenses; under hitch backup lights; 2 KC Hilites Daylighter 6" 150W black round; Cranked torsion bars; Removed lower striping; Replaced factory ORP decals w/ silver; 2 Polk Audio EX10 10" subs under rear seat; Sony XM754HX amp; Viper 300ESP alarm
Pending
Replacing factory gold/maroon Lariat decals & upper stripes with silver & black
Wish list:
More lights; Flowmaster 40 Series single to dual exhaust w/ 18" SS tips out back; Optima red top battery; Remote starter & Prox. sensor; In-dash TV/CD/DVD/AM/FM head unit; Build house w/ huge garage with a drain and a lift.

Please Visit My Web Site (Updated Daily) and Sign My Guest Book

[This message has been edited by lariat4wd (edited 02-16-2001).]

 

Well There is a alternative. Many members from this website use the Xenon Superwhites. They are filled with Xenon gas that cools down the filement inside. The outer blue coating converts the yellow to a white light with a very slight blue tint (Just like the PIAA's).

Make sure when you install any high wattage bulb that you use electrical grease between the connectors. Many people that are worried about melting of harness's can relate. If you use electrical grease this will keep moisture from getting between the connections and causing it to overheat and possibly melt. THIS IS KNOWN WITH ALL BULBS. Becuase your are pulling a higher wattage through your sockets. Any resistance will cause heating. This is not a bulb issue most of the time. But a socket issue. Here is something else to keep in mind.

Here is a little sniplet in my F.A.Q. Section on Xenon Superwhites.

Q – Will these melt my wiring, melt my housing, or run down my alternator?
A – If they are installed correctly and your wiring is not defective, even the high wattage bulbs should not damage wiring. The additional 35 watts from the higher wattage draws less than 3 amps of power. As a reference, your brake lights use approximately 70 watts (6 amps) and a cigarette lighter draws nearly 220 watts (18 amps.) In a poorly ventilated enclosure, typically the bulb will fail before any damage is done to the housing. In such an instance, the standard wattage is necessary and will provide a long service life.

I am sure a lot of you guys have a lot more questions so Here is the URL to the F.A.Q. Section on my website. http://www.sportbikes.net/bulbfaq.html . Currently I sell about 100 pair a month just for sportbikes. But I am also a F150 Owner. So I want to let you guys know about these bulbs before you drop $60-80 bux for a pair of PIAA which are no better then Xenon Superwhites.

JUST REMEMBER.. whatever bulbs you buy.. Use electrical grease in the socket connection if you raising it from stock wattage. In fact I would say use them even if you have stock wattage. Even for your regular bulbs. Its like 50 cents for electrical grease and it saves any possible chance of getting water between that connection and hurting your electrical system.

Just some help guys.

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Fred Folkerts/Chicago IL
1997 Ford 150XLT Black
5.4 TRiTiON/4x4 Off Road
285x75x16 Goodyear Wrangler's
Xenon Superwhites
Modified Air Box.
K&N Air Filter
Superchip
http://www.sportbikes.net/ford/index.html