Hello all, new member here and new owner (1st owner was my mom) of a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT with 93k.

The plugs haven't been changed, and I'm thinking they should be done. Is this the 5.4 Triton V8 motor with all the spark plug issues? Just preparing myself.

What other maintenance would you suggest? With the 100k mark coming up, I'm sure there are a lot of things to inspect. All fluids are good, I'll probably do a drain and fill on the trans even though fluid is still red and doesn't smell.
Tires, suspension, and brakes are good. It's been babied, mostly highway miles. Thanks in advance.

 

Yes. 2 piece plugs.

Change all fluids - trans, diffs, transfer case, coolant. Some people recommend flushing the brake fluid too, I personally don't.

Trans doesn't have a drain plug. You either have to drop the pan (which only gets 5 quarts out, the trans holds 14) or take it to a shop that has an exchange machine (recommended).

 

Let me provide ...IMHO...

When I decided it was time to change the plugs (2006 Mark LT 4x2, 5.4, 35,000 miles) with the Motorcraft SP 515’s. Although I knew about the carbon build-up/plug removal issue, I decided not to change the plugs until there was a replacement plug that I was comfortable with…meaning I knew it was a good quality plug in terms of component design and construction. Although I did follow the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did…
1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs)
2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster.
3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to)
4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully)
The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really. Another technique that can definitely be used is to loosen the plugs about 1/8 to ¼ of a turn, start the engine for about 1 minute- this allows the flame to travel up around the plug to burn off the carbon, let cool, then remove with the process I previously described.
As far as using an air ratchet, I can understand the theory of “shocking” the carbon loose, but I have also seen and experienced in my younger days some real disasters.
Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours.
FYI- Why I choose Motorcraft.
In the 1970’s I ran (like many) Champion’s in just about everything (even had the gold palladiums), but stopped in the early 1980’s when they changed their copper-core design and the resulting quality problems that IMHO still exist today. Since then I have run Splitfire (non-platinum) in my old world (1960’s) cars, Bosch in my late 1990’s vehicles (both because the cylinder head design really prefers these types of plugs), but I really had hesitation because of the construction/component quality of the non-Motorcraft plugs and really questioned the durability in this application about the Motorcraft SP508 or SP 509’s which are single platinum. Given the types of loads and burn/flame promulgation rates in the chambers, I really had doubts about the style of the plug with single platinum having the ability to “survive” as long as they engineers said. What do ya know…the SP 515’s are double platinum.

Here's the maintenance schedule I have used on all my vehicles.....

Engine Management System
• 100,000 Miles Oxygen Sensor Replace

Electronic Fuel Injection System
• Annual Throttle Body & Assembly Inspect, Clean & Lubricate as Necessary
• 6 Months Fuel Injectors Add Redline or BG Brand Fuel Injector Cleaner to Fuel Tank
• 30,000 Miles Fuel Filter Replace
• Annual Anode/Cathodic Protection Inspect
• 5 Years Radiator Drain & Flush System
• 5 Years Hoses Replace
Power Steering
• 5 Years Hoses Inspect & Replace as Necessary
• 30,000 Miles Fluid Drain & Refill
Belts
• 5 Years Serpentine Replace
Transmission
• 30,000 Miles Automatic Transmission Fluid Drain & Refill
Differential
• 30,000 Miles Fluid Drain & Refill
Brakes & Assemblies
• Annual Drums, Rotors & Linings Surface Sand, Degrease, Inspect & Replace as Necessary
• 3 Years Fluid- Conventional Type Bleed System
Wheels/Tires
• 6 Months Tires Rotate, Inspect & Adjust Pressure


Specific to the auto trans....
Here's what I have done on every vehicle (auto trans) that I have owned for 30 years....

At 20k miles, I change the filter (due to possible residual/initial wear particulates that may be floating inside) and either drain the torque converter (if so equipped with a plug) or disconnect the trans cooler line at the radiator, fill the pan with fresh fluid, my wife starts the engine and when 2-3 quarts drain into a bucket, she shuts it off, I refill the pan and repeat until the fluid is clear and in case of the f150, 14 quarts of fresh fluid is in.

I change only the fluid after that (unless I determine substances/contamination in the oil). The intervals vary depending on the type of trans, type of fluid and conditions, but in general, every 30k miles. Heat is a killer on automatic trans fluid and when we lived in the desert area, I changed the trans fluid at the end of summer every year.

In regards to filters, oem is fine, but I typically use Wix. In regards to trans oil, both in sticks and autos I have always used Valvoline.

I have also never had a trans failure in any vehicle I own and typically keep my vehicles for 10+ years, with over 100k on the odometer.

 

Wow, thank you both for the excellent information. Beechkid, my local mechanic of 30+ years quoted me $325 to do the plugs, provided none break. I am pretty comfortable doing basic repairs. Over the years I've done brakes, sensors, wheel bearings, coolant flushes, and a heater core replacement. Gotta say I'm a little nervous about doing this myself. I may just have my guy do it. He has worked on tons of trucks with this motor, so he is very familiar with the issues with the plugs. I may just prep it for the repair using the Lucas fuel injection cleaner you mentioned, and then drop it off to him.

I love the truck and want to keep it around for a while. Especially since it has no rust (my mom lives in Auburn, Alabama). Thanks for the maintenance schedule as well, I'll reference it.

 

I would recommend Techron instead of the Lucas. Don't overdose it, just run it in the recommended strength through a few tanks of gas. Another option is have your shop do a Motorvac or BG intake cleaning job before doing the plugs.

 

I second the use of Techron.

 

IMHO, I really would not be hesitant to do the plugs.......if you get one that is stubborn, you can always tighten in up and take it to the mechanic. Just be very gentle.....working the plugs back & forth, lots of spray lube...no sweat.

 

Just an update, 4 out of 8 broke. Happy my mechanic does a ton of these and charged me a flat $400 for everything, so I'm good with that.

Changed the fuel filter and cleaned the injectors too, runs like a dream.