Is this "The Clunk" ?
Is this "The Clunk" ?
My 02 makes a popping sound whenever it is put in a bind like backing out and cutting the wheel as far as it will go. It doesnt do it all the time but it does it often enough. Is this what you guys refer to as the clunk or is it something completely different?
Gots to give props and a shout out to my bud 
There ya go.

Originally posted by Silver-Y2K-SVT on 4-20-2001
You might be a little confused regarding the intricacies of "The Clunk". I am a thrice-decorated veteran of the "Clunk Wars", and consider myself more-or-less expert on this topic.
There indeed is a very annoying and disconcerting noise that tends to originate from the steering stops on a Gen 2 Lightning. This, however, is NOT technically "The Clunk" that we all fear and loathe. This is, as far as I can tell, correctly referred to as "The Scrape" or "Type II Clunk". The noise occurs when the wheels are turned all of the way in either direction (up against the stops) and the suspension is compressed or relaxed with the wheel in this position (like backing out of the driveway). If you crawl around under the beast, you will find a steel button mounted on the extreme rearward side of the lower A-arm (if I recall correctly) that contacts a smooth, shallow cavity on the (cast iron?) caliper mounting bracket (or maybe hub assembly?) when the wheel is turned as far as it will go. You'll see a shiny spot where the button rubs, and you'll likely find the button itself partially ground away. Anyway, "The Scrape/Type II Clunk" is a result of this metal-to-metal contact and movement under conditions of high pressure and little/no lubrication. Slap some grease on the shiny "rub mark" on the caliper bracket/hub and you'll eliminate the noise, for a while at least. It's ridiculously easy to do, so slap some grease on there every few hundred miles.
Correctly stated, "The Clunk" is caused by the driver's side lower A-arm sliding in the eccentric mounting hole due to a loosening of the mounting bolt/washer assembly. This happens with every new Lightning, and it's impossible to avoid. I assume that the 2001 models are all afflicted, unless Ford put some major fix on it (unlikely). Again, crawl under the beast and have a look at the area where the driver's side lower A-arm attaches to the frame. Focus on the rearward side of the A-arm (look from the area around the driver's door, not from the front of the truck). There is a huge hardened bolt (you'll see the head) and a big (2-inch or so) flat washer. If your truck has any miles on it whatsoever, you'll probably see where the bolt/washer has been sliding back-and-forth (the waxy black undercoat will be scraped off and shiny steel will be exposed). This sliding usually occurs when you crank the wheel around while stationary or slowly backing up, and it makes a very annoying metallic "pop" or "clunk". Well, the reason for this problem (other than the obvious eccentric mounting hole) is that the big flat washer is bolted down OVER the greasy black undercoating. Regardless of the mounting torque, the washer simply "surfs" over the slippery black crap. There are a number of fixes out there (the washers look like the best), but I just removed the bolt and washer, THOROUGHLY CLEANED the washer and mating surface, roughed both up a little with a drill-mounted abrasive, and re-assembled with plenty of torque. Don't forget to re-paint the area black for later clunk detection. Anyway, this fix has held just fine for me.
Hope this clears things up, and if you already knew this, relax - there's surely somebody out there that doesn't.
You might be a little confused regarding the intricacies of "The Clunk". I am a thrice-decorated veteran of the "Clunk Wars", and consider myself more-or-less expert on this topic.
There indeed is a very annoying and disconcerting noise that tends to originate from the steering stops on a Gen 2 Lightning. This, however, is NOT technically "The Clunk" that we all fear and loathe. This is, as far as I can tell, correctly referred to as "The Scrape" or "Type II Clunk". The noise occurs when the wheels are turned all of the way in either direction (up against the stops) and the suspension is compressed or relaxed with the wheel in this position (like backing out of the driveway). If you crawl around under the beast, you will find a steel button mounted on the extreme rearward side of the lower A-arm (if I recall correctly) that contacts a smooth, shallow cavity on the (cast iron?) caliper mounting bracket (or maybe hub assembly?) when the wheel is turned as far as it will go. You'll see a shiny spot where the button rubs, and you'll likely find the button itself partially ground away. Anyway, "The Scrape/Type II Clunk" is a result of this metal-to-metal contact and movement under conditions of high pressure and little/no lubrication. Slap some grease on the shiny "rub mark" on the caliper bracket/hub and you'll eliminate the noise, for a while at least. It's ridiculously easy to do, so slap some grease on there every few hundred miles.
Correctly stated, "The Clunk" is caused by the driver's side lower A-arm sliding in the eccentric mounting hole due to a loosening of the mounting bolt/washer assembly. This happens with every new Lightning, and it's impossible to avoid. I assume that the 2001 models are all afflicted, unless Ford put some major fix on it (unlikely). Again, crawl under the beast and have a look at the area where the driver's side lower A-arm attaches to the frame. Focus on the rearward side of the A-arm (look from the area around the driver's door, not from the front of the truck). There is a huge hardened bolt (you'll see the head) and a big (2-inch or so) flat washer. If your truck has any miles on it whatsoever, you'll probably see where the bolt/washer has been sliding back-and-forth (the waxy black undercoat will be scraped off and shiny steel will be exposed). This sliding usually occurs when you crank the wheel around while stationary or slowly backing up, and it makes a very annoying metallic "pop" or "clunk". Well, the reason for this problem (other than the obvious eccentric mounting hole) is that the big flat washer is bolted down OVER the greasy black undercoating. Regardless of the mounting torque, the washer simply "surfs" over the slippery black crap. There are a number of fixes out there (the washers look like the best), but I just removed the bolt and washer, THOROUGHLY CLEANED the washer and mating surface, roughed both up a little with a drill-mounted abrasive, and re-assembled with plenty of torque. Don't forget to re-paint the area black for later clunk detection. Anyway, this fix has held just fine for me.
Hope this clears things up, and if you already knew this, relax - there's surely somebody out there that doesn't.
There ya go.
Originally posted by 2Cool
Yep, noise at full steering lock.
Use some heavy grease on the bumpstops on the lower A-arms, it should take care of the problem (worked on mine)
Yep, noise at full steering lock.
Use some heavy grease on the bumpstops on the lower A-arms, it should take care of the problem (worked on mine)
Just go buy the $35 herb washers, head down to napa and buy the cam bolts, and have a good alighnment done. You'll never have to worry about it again.
It's only like a $100 permanent fix.
Just go buy the $35 herb washers, head down to napa and buy the cam bolts, and have a good alighnment done.
DUCK
Originally posted by DUCK01
What's up with these cam-bolts? Why not just reuse the stock ones? I have a set of Herb's washers at the house, but haven't messed with getting them put on, yet. Thanks.
DUCK
What's up with these cam-bolts? Why not just reuse the stock ones? I have a set of Herb's washers at the house, but haven't messed with getting them put on, yet. Thanks.
DUCK
Instead of making adjustments at the sliding "clunking" bolt's you install the cam bolts in the top of the arms and make the adjustments there.
AKA the world is right again.
Last edited by bob1999; Jun 6, 2002 at 09:29 AM.
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This doen't fix the problem, it only makes it quite. Your lower control arm bolts are still moving around.
* The "pop" is from dry steering stops and can be quieted with
grease.
* The "clunk" is from a slipping lower control arm mounting bolt and cannot be quieted with grease. If yours is slipping you must find a way to secure it. Herb's washers is one way. Another might be the use of a star lockwasher and extreme torque. Ford is currently using the latter method on the 02s. Mine hasn't slipped yet.
Ahhhhh...thanks, Bob. That makes perfect sense, I think.
Herb's washers limit the range of motion on the rear of the a-arm, so the adjustments must be made at another spot. These cam bolts allow for that adjustment to be made.
Now, is there any particular size or anything I should look for at my local auto-parts store, or should I even mess with it and just hope that my alignment shop has some that will work?
Thanks!
DUCK
Herb's washers limit the range of motion on the rear of the a-arm, so the adjustments must be made at another spot. These cam bolts allow for that adjustment to be made.Now, is there any particular size or anything I should look for at my local auto-parts store, or should I even mess with it and just hope that my alignment shop has some that will work?
Thanks!
DUCK
2 separate issues there, grease fixes one (the "pop").
As for "Herb's washers", no way in heck am I paying $35 (or is it $50 now?) for two machined washers. 5 minutes with a MIG welder and the existing washers are now an integral part of the frame. Problem solved for the "clunk".
As for "Herb's washers", no way in heck am I paying $35 (or is it $50 now?) for two machined washers. 5 minutes with a MIG welder and the existing washers are now an integral part of the frame. Problem solved for the "clunk".
Originally posted by 2Cool
2 separate issues there, grease fixes one (the "pop").
As for "Herb's washers", no way in heck am I paying $35 (or is it $50 now?) for two machined washers. 5 minutes with a MIG welder and the existing washers are now an integral part of the frame. Problem solved for the "clunk".
2 separate issues there, grease fixes one (the "pop").
As for "Herb's washers", no way in heck am I paying $35 (or is it $50 now?) for two machined washers. 5 minutes with a MIG welder and the existing washers are now an integral part of the frame. Problem solved for the "clunk".
Do you think I should go see a doctor?
Last edited by bob1999; Jun 6, 2002 at 09:25 PM.



I just took off the blinders and looked at the "pulls to the left" thread. Called NAPA and they said that they'd have one for me tomorrow evening.