I have already purchased JDM's Stage 1 Kit & now I am thinking about getting the new Interchangeable Pully Kit within the next couple months. My Question is...Which pulley is the best to use without having any problems? What pound pulley are most of you using?? Is it hard to put the kit on? Do you need a pulley puller to change the pulley's. Please explain to me how the whole precess works. What tools to you need for this procedure. Thanks for you help and explainations. Is it worth the money...can you tell a noticeable difference??

 

Having just put mine on last night. I can answer for you...

First, you need new plugs... which one's depends on boost

2 and 4 pounds seem to be the norm and pretty safe... any mod is taking a risk. I just installed a 4lber...

2lb = NGK tr5's or Denso IT20/22's
4lb = NGK tr6's or Denso IT22/24's

changing the plugs is not real hard, just time consuming... lots of tight spaces (especially for my huge hands... I got cuts and scrapes everywhere!)

changing the pulley is easy... you need/want a 1/2" breaker bar for the tensioner and breaking the stop pulley loose. Order the optional tools from JDM... you'll need both.

TO install the pulley, you just gotta pull the inspection cap off the converter and use the JDM strap (optional tool) to lock it in place so the engine doesn't turn while trying to break the pulley loose.

Next, take off the belt, unbolt the stock cage, get your 1/2" breaker bar and the huge hext driver (optional tool) and crank like hell to the right (backwards threaded) until it breaks loose... keep turning it by hand until it threads off and falls out. slip it out the bottom... shove the new one up and thread back on, bolt the cage on.

Now, pull the tensioner off (3 bolts) break the little stop tab that keeps if from being tensioner more than an inch and re-install, then put the pulley back on and away you go...

plugs took me 3 hours, pulley was 45 minutes...

 

also, make sure you chip is burned for the pulley... or send it back and have JDM reburn... you should get 2 reburns at no charge...

 

You dont need to take the tensioner off to remove the tab. Just whack it with a screw driver the tab breaks off..

When you move the tensioner to its limit youll see the tab pretty clear

Doug

 

Doug,

Didn't have a long enough screw driver handy last night!

I tried, then decided... just to take 5 mins and pull it off...

so, for your short screw driver guy...... uhm... never mind...

 

NGK TR6's will work with either a 2 or 4# pulley. I ran the TR6 with my 2#er all last year and am still using them with my 4# pulley.