TR5's or TR6's
 

I know it has been beat to death, but so has the fact that search doesn't work. I'm thinking TR5's with my mods(in sig), but I want to be sure.

Thanks

TR6s or Denso IT20s with a 4 lb pulley.

Dan

Litenin75

You should talk with Chuck about what type of plugs to use. He has ran a couple brands and I think he finally found one that he likes. Hope this helps.

Later
Damon

I just took out my TR5's. They looked great and I run the piss out of them with a #4 pulley. I put in the BR7's and the truck seems to be a little slower.

JUST changed the plugs in my truck!!
 

Litenin75

Based on the last information from Chuck, I installed the TR5's and these plugs really seem to have improved the throttle response and low end grunt! :D

I e-mailed this same question to Sal at PSP and he said, he doesn't recomend the TR-5's.

TR6
 

That is what Jim at JDM handed me when I got my 4#.He picked them out.

VINNIE

That is what he sent me with my mods and he knows them all. BUT, I have seen many people on the forums running TR5's with the same mods. I have seen a streak of better performance with TR5's and that is why I started this thread. I do not doubt him, but all trucks run differently and I was wondering what the majority was running. Still with some doubt:confused: .

I have run tr5 tr6 and stock on two different trucks

obsevations are

Stock plugs turn a strange color purple and get a miss at idle with time. Lots of people find increasing problems with time and mods.

TR6 plugs are a little cold on any stock (unchiped) truck. What happens is the plug never gets hot enough to clean itself. When you start and warm up the motor, the fuel system has to go some what rich and in turn starts to foul the plug. If you have a chip that is lean enough to make power a TR6 will get plenty hot enough to clean the plug the first tiime you nail the motor. If you have a stock chip, the top end is so righ these plugs never get hot enough and lean enough to get hot and clean up.

TR5 plugs are a little hotter and do not seem to have this issue. I have not used these plugs in the dead of summer to see if they are hot enough to cause detonation. Both trucks I have been working with have the best idle with these plugs. Remember that if you drag race a good idle is a indication of what the truck will feel like as you start rolling on the power (60 ft times and throttle responce)

TR7 we have no experance with these plugs but.. posts I have read posts implying that they are too cold for anything less than a 6# pulley and the bottle. I bet these people are having probles that can be traced back to startup.

We have never tried the densos but I bet they behave in a similar way.

The trucks that I have been working on run 4" vaccum gauges all the time and we are watching thase gauges and feeling the idle for patterns. Here in the midwest winter cold starts can get down to about zero and in the summer, 100 is posible a couple of weeks a year.

Hope this helps

Andy

Andy,

You would detonate more in the winter than the summer. You will run richer in the summer because the air is not as dense. I've got to say that's a pretty good accessment of those 3 plugs.

Cory,

Pay attention to the JDM setup and not Sal's since you are running Jim's chip. Some people seem to think this is a one size fits all kinda thing but it's not. It depends on how your chip is tuned. TR5's will be fine with what you have and if you get a 4# pulley just let Jim know which plugs you are running so he can do your reburn for them.

I'm at a loss about the SES light and the boost bypass. I put one on and forgot about it.

Come out to the track thursday and see what kind of times I turn with the Splitfires.:D I think I'll do a step by step photo shoot when I change them out today.

LTNBOLT

It is possible to get detonation summer and/or winter with the same setup.

Picture in the winter the dense air causing detonation due to the resulting lean mixture. note: The intake air temp sensor in the air filter may correct for this in the tables)

This same chip could detonate in the summer with the air intering the motor a full 100 deg hotter and then gaining yet another 100 degrees from being compressed by the blower. Same problem detonation, but two very different causes.

What I was saying is that most of out testing was done below 60 degrees. The jury is still out untill June when the summer air hits.

a little side note: Durring the summer with open open filters, we were getting 125 degree air in the air filter in traffic situations. With a well designed air box we were getting about 20 degrees cooler air in the filter at 4" of water vacume at full power.

Testing and data acusition is everything.

Its time again.
 

This was posted here several months ago but since the search is down I'm putting it back up for anyone that may like to read it. This is how you find your correct gap and heat range. No two trucks are the same and the climate you live in plays a big part in picking your plugs. Personally I like the TR5.
http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.htm

Andy,

I think you will find that this won't be an issue when it warms up. It never has been with me. My detonation problem only came about with a 4# pulley, cold air and winter gas. I run my winter program for daily driving. I flip to the warm weather program at the track and run a gallon of toulene or 104 unlead. The winter program will only run a 12.94 but is safe for very cold temps and winter gas on a daily driver.

LTNBOLT
This is a little off topic, but thought I would throw it out there.
I was told that when the ACT sensor sees a certain temp, I think it was 100 degrees or less that the computer adds 3 degrees timing to the program.

I think alot of the winter detonation that has been blamed on winter gas can actually be blamed on this little item.

This is also why some tuners are making winter and summer programs ( I assume).

I was told that it hasn't been a problem in the past but now it may be. Especially in the case of 6lb pulleys and such.
Dale