Are you guys using the Motorcraft oil filter?

I had a Mitsubishi Eclipse with a turbo and I was using the Fram replacement oil filter. I was getting a lifter tick for about a minute after I started it. So I took it in and they said that you have to you the Mitsubishi oil filter because it was manufactured different so the oil does not drain into the oil pan when you turn the car off. ??????? Who knows? Maybe this makes sense? I think they were giving me a line of crap, so they didn't have to replace the engine!

 

LIGHTNINROD - Where can I get some more information on this Dyno Surge Metal Treatment. If what we are hearing is indeed piston slap this product might very well coat the piston thereby eliminating the noise. Maybe this is why LightninRod has not had the noise. I don't know, maybe it will work. I know if my engine starts knocking I will become **** about it.

 

Had to step in here.First of all "break-in" oil is always lighter(not heavier) than standard oil. Secondly I went to 4000 miles before I changed my oil and went with Havoline 5-30 (I can't see how a 20wt dino oil that breaks down within a few heat cycles can do its job properly.Lastly, make sure you use a QUALITY oil filter like Purolator,Motorcraft or Wix/ Napa) Anything else is crap.Especially Fram.Without going into a long story, I can tell you of at least 6 examples of cars, trucks AND motorcycles that had blown engines due to the material and construction flaws of Fram( they have the worst quality control inspections) Sometimes you get a decent one but most times not. To me it is NOT worth the gamble .Stay with the brands mentioned ( AC is good ,too) and throw away the Frams,STP's .Even the Amzoil, though filters excellent, has flow restrictions that can impede pressure. The filter issue could very well contribute to these problems , but its the oil that needs to be looked at. Remember the 1st part of an oils weight pertains to its cold starting viscosity(its ability to flow quicker) while the 2nd # reflects its protection quality.That is why a 5-30 or a 0-30 is a better choice than a 5-20 or a 20-50. Think about it.

 

GREAT INFORMATION GUYS!!!!

LETS KEEP THIS GOING UNTILL WE GET TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS CRAP!!

By the way: Anybody ever look inside of a Fram filter?

Looks and is VERY, VERY cheap!!

The use CARDBOARD inside the filter!!! Every other filter i've seen has a metal screen at the top of the filter.

I thought it would be worth my time and money to cut open a few brands of filters for comparison.

I'm definately not an expert, but the Mobil1 filter looked the best, followed closely by the Motorcraft, the A/C delco was not bad.

But the Fram filter looked like CHIT! I've got to hand it to Fram though, they have great marketing skills to get people to buy those things.

J

 

I changed my oil with Valvoline 5w30 and a Motorcraft filter and have the noise as well. I know these engines have a forged piston in them which are infamaous for being loud when cold, but I think it has something to do with the pin clearance being too tight and causing the pistons to rock in the bores. I can't remember if they are full floating pins or not, does someone know?? Maybe Dr,Triton can help answer the factory oil question cause the engines come full of oil to the plant.

 

I would agree with Frank S on this one. I have been researching this for quite some time. What he says makes the most sense. The more miles that are on an oil change the engine seems to get more quiet. Maybe the oil is starting to build up a film on the engine rings. Bob.

 

Other than the pistons, crank and supercharger what are the difference between the 5.4 L engine and a 5.4 in say a regular F150 or expedition? I know the oil filter is located differently on the L but was wondering if there are any other differences that may give us a hint as to why these engines do this. Also regular F150 5.4's are having this problem as well aren't they? If that is the case, then the forged piston theroy would not be the root of our problem would it? Thanks for your help.

 

Amsoil 0w-30 and a Motorcraft 820S. That combo has worked for me. Too bad your getting the rattle noise J...

 

Then why doesn't the friction reducer drain down into the pan after the trucks sits? It shouldn't make a differance if you dump the oil or shut the truck off and let it sit over night.Think about it.

 

Because the friction reducer is in the oil until you make that first oil change. Everyone that had/has the knock didn't have it until after the first oil change, when the friction reducer is history.

 

Oil filter reading See

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

Andy

 

Frank S - Do you think this "friction reducer" can be added to the first oil change and prevent this. I mean, it sounds logical that this could be the problem. Maybe LIGHTNINROD is on to something using 3 oz. of this Dyno Surge Metal Treatment. I have never heard of it and normally don't promote the use of additives, but who knows maybe the fix is as simple as useing this product. Maybe LIGHTNINROD can give us more info on this product.

 

Friction reducer??? I thought break in oil would have none of these, in order to enhance metal-metal mating. Anybody remember the old racer's trick of pouring BonAmi into the carb venturis for instant break in?


Hmm... It DOES make for interesting reading... Post on ... I'm still waiting for my first oil change.

 

good read awhittle, this is the kind of input this board needs=factual,to the point ,and pertains to the subject at hand, wish all post's where this informative. thanks

 

You do realize that the above study was done almost 3 years ago... I'm sure some things have changed with the filters tested...