Electric Fan
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Make your own
Try www.fordpartsonline.com for the shroud.
www.jegs.com will have the fan and the therostst switch if you want to use it.
I wired mine directly into the ignition without the thermostat switch and it cost me about $150 total.
www.jegs.com will have the fan and the therostst switch if you want to use it.
I wired mine directly into the ignition without the thermostat switch and it cost me about $150 total.
Dont want to spoil anything...
But I am on a college budget when it comes to eating and mods.
About a week ago (2 weeks maybe?) someone said they put an electric fan from a Mark VIII that cost them $50 and another $100 for he shop to install it. That would be cool. Ofcourse they wouldnt go into detail (as is usually the case), but I forgot who it was.
About a week ago (2 weeks maybe?) someone said they put an electric fan from a Mark VIII that cost them $50 and another $100 for he shop to install it. That would be cool. Ofcourse they wouldnt go into detail (as is usually the case), but I forgot who it was.
First, measure the radiator width and height so you will know how large of a fan(s) you can use.
Two options for the fan:
1. Try to find a V8 in a junk yard with electric fans and snag it. You can also use two fans that will fit from other engines. Be mindful of the depth, you don't want the fans to rub against your belts.
2. Go to Summit or Jeg's and buy a fan or two.
Get yourself:
A thermostatic switch (I highly suggest one) at your local Kragen or equivalent ($15).
Some wire ($5).
A relay (5 finger discount at junkyard).
Inline fuse or two standard female connectors, a blade fuse, and electrical tape ($1).
A couple of diodes that can handle at least 15 volts, and a couple of amps, it will only be for the relay($2).
Now, mount the thermostatic switch in a suitable location near the radiator. The sensor bulb will squeeze between a few cooling fins in the radiator. Wire up the relay like you would any other relay; large, fused wire from battery to relay input (can't remember the numbers), large wire from relay to fan(s). Find a wire that you want to use for a power source (switched or not is up to you, mine is switched). Run a wire from there to the thermostatic switch. Run a wire from the switch to the relay. Find the wire on the A/C compressor that provides power (test light, there are only 2 wires to choose from) to tap into. Run a wire from the A/C compressor to the relay. Now, hypothetically the system should work.
Now pay close attention:
Cut the wire between the A/C compressor and the relay, solder in a diode so the flow of current runs to the relay. Then, cut the wire that runs from the switch to the relay, solder in another diode there so the flow of current goes to the relay.
Additional instructions if you want an override switch:
Find a wire to tap into that is switched (so you won't come back to a dead battery because you forgot to turn the fan off). Run a wire from there to a switch mounted in your preferred location. Run a wire from the switch to the relay. Again, cut the wire from the switch, to the relay and solder in a diode so the flow of electricity goes to the relay.
Adjustment:
Set the thermostatic switch for a low setting. Drive around for a while to get the engine to operating temperature. Crank your heater to the max. Adjust the thermostatic switch so that the fans will not turn off at idle. When you reach a good cruising speed (35 MPH for me), the radiator will get enough airflow to not require the fan(s).
The diodes are important. If they are not in the system, electricity will flow from the power source through the entire system. I.E., the A/C will never turn off.
I have been using this system for a year now in my 4x4. I have towed a trailer from Delaware to California. The model engine I have is famous for its small radiator and overheating problems. I have a inferior fan from what I should have, but I have never had any problems. Running the fans after the engine has been shut off will do nothing for your engine. All that is happening is the water in the radiator is being cooled. Once the truck is started again, the much cooler water hits the thermostat, the thermostat closes, and then the water warms up again. If anything is wrong in this post, please point it out to me so that I can correct it.
Two options for the fan:
1. Try to find a V8 in a junk yard with electric fans and snag it. You can also use two fans that will fit from other engines. Be mindful of the depth, you don't want the fans to rub against your belts.
2. Go to Summit or Jeg's and buy a fan or two.
Get yourself:
A thermostatic switch (I highly suggest one) at your local Kragen or equivalent ($15).
Some wire ($5).
A relay (5 finger discount at junkyard).
Inline fuse or two standard female connectors, a blade fuse, and electrical tape ($1).
A couple of diodes that can handle at least 15 volts, and a couple of amps, it will only be for the relay($2).
Now, mount the thermostatic switch in a suitable location near the radiator. The sensor bulb will squeeze between a few cooling fins in the radiator. Wire up the relay like you would any other relay; large, fused wire from battery to relay input (can't remember the numbers), large wire from relay to fan(s). Find a wire that you want to use for a power source (switched or not is up to you, mine is switched). Run a wire from there to the thermostatic switch. Run a wire from the switch to the relay. Find the wire on the A/C compressor that provides power (test light, there are only 2 wires to choose from) to tap into. Run a wire from the A/C compressor to the relay. Now, hypothetically the system should work.
Now pay close attention:
Cut the wire between the A/C compressor and the relay, solder in a diode so the flow of current runs to the relay. Then, cut the wire that runs from the switch to the relay, solder in another diode there so the flow of current goes to the relay.
Additional instructions if you want an override switch:
Find a wire to tap into that is switched (so you won't come back to a dead battery because you forgot to turn the fan off). Run a wire from there to a switch mounted in your preferred location. Run a wire from the switch to the relay. Again, cut the wire from the switch, to the relay and solder in a diode so the flow of electricity goes to the relay.
Adjustment:
Set the thermostatic switch for a low setting. Drive around for a while to get the engine to operating temperature. Crank your heater to the max. Adjust the thermostatic switch so that the fans will not turn off at idle. When you reach a good cruising speed (35 MPH for me), the radiator will get enough airflow to not require the fan(s).
The diodes are important. If they are not in the system, electricity will flow from the power source through the entire system. I.E., the A/C will never turn off.
I have been using this system for a year now in my 4x4. I have towed a trailer from Delaware to California. The model engine I have is famous for its small radiator and overheating problems. I have a inferior fan from what I should have, but I have never had any problems. Running the fans after the engine has been shut off will do nothing for your engine. All that is happening is the water in the radiator is being cooled. Once the truck is started again, the much cooler water hits the thermostat, the thermostat closes, and then the water warms up again. If anything is wrong in this post, please point it out to me so that I can correct it.
doesn't take much to do your own...
All you need is a Lincoln Mark VIII fan (about $110 brand new from Houston Performance) and a dremel. Cut the stock shroud off the electric fan till all that is left is the round portion or the main part of the fan with a dremel. Make yourself some sturdy straps to bolt the fan to your shroud on the truck and you are done. Wiring is very simple, just get a good relay (75a) and a temp switch from painless wiring that turns on at 180. If you need wiring diagrams, it's a breeze. You can turn it on with the a/c, switch or make it fully auto.
I plan on doing this in the summer time but the price of some other kits is outrageous. Most of that is R&D......
That Lincoln fan would cool off a semi truck no problem
I plan on doing this in the summer time but the price of some other kits is outrageous. Most of that is R&D......
That Lincoln fan would cool off a semi truck no problem
Looses that monster of a belt driven one, add's HP
lets you do a cool down while motor is off (if you wire it right)
Like I said earlier...to get the kit to work with A/C its gonna cost almost $600 with shipping.
But I am on a college budget when it comes to eating and mods.
Re: Electric fan
Originally posted by Blown95Stang
Hey Sidewalk I didnt buy that electric fan kit.....just that someone posted a link to JDM's fan on his site...its close to $600 with the accessories.
Hey Sidewalk I didnt buy that electric fan kit.....just that someone posted a link to JDM's fan on his site...its close to $600 with the accessories.


