I am a fresh Lightning owner, had mine for 3 months now, and have a blown motor. Bought the truck from a Ford dealer and the truck already had the mods installed, here's what I got that I know: 6lb pulley, K&N intake, and magnaflow exhaust with no cats. I got the truck dynoed here in WPB FL, and it made 400rwhp and 500rwtrq when it was 80degrees outside.
So a couple of days ago I was getting on it on the highway, and kaboom goes the engine. I haven't opened it yet, but what I know is that I have a 2 inch diameter hole in the block! I think I melted/damaged a piston and it made the rest of the engine go... well you guess I think my truck might have been running too lean.

Anyways, I would really appreciate all the help I could get concerning a engine rebuild. I would like to get an aftermarket block, new forged pistons, cams etc... Any suggestions to what parts I should consider and omit? I was looking for a budget around $6k, can that get anything? And what can kind of power can I expect to gain from a new block and new internals? Thanks for all the help before hand.

 

Bad luck mate.

If you bought the truck from a dealer like that, you may have some comeback on them or at least get them to contribute to the rebuild.
For built blocks, check out the websites of JLP, JDM, LFP or PSP. They all have quality kit.
Jim from JDM and Sal from PSP both post on here and will be able to advise you further.
To answer your question, a built block alone will offer you no real power over a stock block.
However, it does offer you the potential to make way more power than a stock block can handle if you add ported heads, cams or an aftermarket blower etc.

 

cooler weather now....'tis the season of blown engines.....

 

You can have a Built short block installed in your price range. Adam suggested the preferred vendors.

 

I did the exact same thing last year. Blew a hole in both rear cylinders...Your problem could have been one of several. Having weak rods to begin with doesnt help matters. Making 400 rwhp and 500 torque on those mods I would think you had plenty of timing, that was my problem... a little too much timing.

Anyway, using a 6K budget I would go with a JLP or JDM short block. You should be able to use all your other parts. take your heads to a good machine shop and have them looked at you could have possibly dinged a valve. If the heads are ok then just have them ported. You will have to sink a little money back in the gaskets, rear main, heads , timing covers, ect, ect....You should be able to do all that for under 6K.

I went with a JLP longblock. when it's said and done that will cost you a few pennies over 8K

No power from the Shortblock but you will have confidence. You wont have to worry about it blowing up again as long as you keep it running healthy. You can get more power from the heads by porting them and adding better cams but if you do that you might as well fork over the money for the JDM or JLP heads that come ready to bolt on....then your back to a longblock build, might as well order it ready to drop in.

 

Sorry to hear it DomesticAbuser

As said being you bought it that way doesnt it have a 90 day wrrnty ???
Even if your only a little over it you DEF still might have a fighting chance with the dealer you bought it from.

As for whats available you just heard it. If your doing it yourself you'll save, if you give it to someone to do a full Long Block and then start adding Headers, Convertor, Fuel and Intake Upgrades you will end up closer to 12K

Either way as I pitstain just mentioned tis the season for blown motors, it's unfortunate but it happens EACH AND EVERY YEAR around this time.
For the newer L owners maybe you need to understand WHY

There's a few reasons BUT YOU CAN PROTECT YOURSELF FROM THEM

#1 most places (like here in NY) add schitt to the fuel in the winter and it kills octane, so there alone you may start detonating and BOOM

#2 Cool Air equals more HP, if your running on the edge that alone could do it

#3 The Computer can AND WILL add up to 3 (or is it 4) degrees of timing in the winter, BIG PROBLEM FOR MANY and def can cause it to go boom if your at a max safe timing level already

#4 with the cooler air and more HP also comes MORE BOOST. More boost and less octane (as in some states during winter months) again equal BOOM


WHAT YOU CAN DO

#1 GET A WINTER TUNE (talk to the tuner about locking the timing)

#2 TAKE BOOST AWAY (I have done this every year since 02)

#3 RUN HIGHER OCTANE or Octane Booster (one that actually works)

#4 NO LONG WOT PARKWAY BURST or WOT DOWNSHIFTS

I hate seeing this every season but unfortunately we still do

Sorry Bro, Lightning recovery on it

 

Ok, who is going to be the first one to start the annual "Has anyone noticed there's been a lot of blown motors lately?" thread.

 

We will also need a thread to make note of how the newbie member count goes up at about the same rate as the blown motor count goes up. It seems like they blow the motor, then come searching for help.

 

Thanks for all the help so far. I am in Florida so the winter weather is not as big of an issue as compared to NY for example, since we haven't had any temperatures go less than 60. Anyway, I think there might have been a lot of stress from the previous owner and most likely was running extreme on the timing. The warranty that came with the truck was 60 days and 2k miles. I am gonna go talk to the again and see what happens.... They are not the best at helping people out at the dealer.

I think I will end up going with the built shortblock either from JLP or LFP and port my current heads if not damaged. I will add headers and then call it quits.... for now Can the engine with forged internals and a new block handle nitrous safely, and how big of a shot? I would really like to get 450rwhp without nitrous. What can I do to reach that number, I was making 400rwhp before? Thanks for the input guys.

 

Yeah get something strong to take the power upgrade.

I would also look at changing yer board name !!! get locked up here for that

 

You never mentioned a chip or tuner when you explained what mods it had when you bought it. Is the truck chipped?? Was there a hand held tuner in the truck? Who dynoed it? 400hp is not an exceptional amount of hp with a 6 pound lower. It is possible that whoever traded it on may have had a hand held tuner and set the PCM back to stock calibration when they got rid of the truck..A 6 pound lower with no tuning could have caused your problem..check the PCM to see if there is a chip in it, or of evidence of one having been there.

 

Mine has more parts from napa, than the napa has in stock!

 

Sorry didnt realize you were in Florida but for others if posting that helps, lets leave it, new owners just dont realize how fragile a Beast can be

Yes a Built Motor can handle A LOT of power, prob 700 - 900 safely
Yes it can handle N20, up to 150 should be no prob, BUT I'd hit it with 50 - 75
Yes you can EASILY acheive 450, SAVE YOUR MONEY AND BUY A KB
(you can get the old upgraded now reliable KB for 2500.00, I'd do it BEFORE even buying headers, then 500 HP will NOT be a problem)

VERY VERY GOOD POINT MARC
I have to assume he does have SOMETHING ? but Abuser if you tell us you DONT have a Chip or Hand Held tuner you found your reason "WHY it happen".

Good Plan on the rebuild but dont do it for nothing, (been there dont that)
BUY A BIGGER AND BADDER SUPERCHARGER and you WILL NEVER regret it
(as said a Brand New KB can be gotten for @2500.00)

 

I have a built shortblock and Im local Palm Beach Ron@garabar.com if interested.

 

Welcome to the "I just blew my engine in cold weather because I have no idea what my MAF counts are" club. You had no way of knowing because you're new to the community. But this is the time of year that post after post pops up proclaiming "I just blew my engine!"

The lesson to be learned for the future is that you don't throw money and parts at your L without datalogging the effects on the engine. Lots of posts about the danger of exceeding the capabilities of the MAF meter and the resulting "boom".

Best wishes on getting things back together.