If you considering Lo-Jack go to: http://www.cars-n-trucks.com/lightning.htm

------------------
Jim
jim@jimshaw.cc

Black 00, Swanson Chip, 4.10's, super whites, Airaid w/10" Big Mouth filter,
chrome wheels, AIM 2" drop shackles, Mobile1 w/FilterMag, clear corners
2000 E320, 1993 Cobra R, 1959 Corvette, 1949 Plymouth Coupe

Looking for a better paying job to support my L

 

I heard on TV that you can get a "bypass" master key to use instead of a chipped key.

------------------
2000 Black Lightning, Snuglid
Custom Bed Carpet
Clear Corners, Lightning banner
Tinted Windows, Custom air intake
2" drop, VTech Taillight covers.
NLOC #377

See pics of '00BlackLightning at:
http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4294555843

 

here in the Detroit area, vehicle theft is one of our biggest industries! Although anti-theft systems work well, they do nothing against the common method of using a flatbed to take the vehicle away without having to start it. Thats where LoJack comes in handy, allowing a quick recovery in most cases. Many of the thieves let them sit for awhile to "cool off" and that gives the LoJack signal time to be homed-in on and you can get it back before they have a chance to strip it.

Many thanks go out to Jim (FORDSALES) for the great deal he got us on LoJack.

 

Something I bought to defeat the master pass-key problem is called AutoLock. You guys may have seen it on television. It is like the "Club" but it locks the brake pedal (or clutch pedal if you have one). It slides onto the pedal shaft and locks it so it does not move. I bought two for about $160 shipping and handling.

Apparently, brake and clutch pedal shafts have industry standards regarding strengh. The metal is pretty hard and probably not that easy to cut if you are in a hurry.

The Autolock looks well made. Has a barrel lock. In the TV demo, they shot the lock at 15 ft. with a 12 guage shotgun using a shotgun slug. Ricocheted off the lock and little damage done.

Lojack is still a good idea as long as the vehicle can be recovered before it is striped or wrecked. Otherwise, I am not sure I want it back.

But, if someone wants to steal your vehicle bad enough, they will get it no matter what.

 

Just a little note about Lojack in this morning Star Ledger out of Newark NJ. Its seems that there was an accident yesterday that involved the paramedics removing an injured person from their car. Anyway, two bros stopped to watch the action. The investigating police noticed that their Lojack reciever was picking up a signal. They walked across the street and made two arrests and recovered a stolen car. Ya gotta love this new technology!

 

While we're on this subject of possibly getting a vehicle stolen...

For those of you who do not drive your L's much, have already modified them significantly (thus pumping some hard-earned $$ into them), and want full-coverage insurance for cheap...feel free to send me an e-mail.

I am NOT an insurance salesman, and have no affiliation with anyone, but can highly recommend getting some stated value insurance on your truck! I did this for my '90 LX. Got it appraised, then got some stated value insurance...which is full coverage to the amount _I_ (not some adjuster) choose. The key is mileage driven per year.

Just trying to help some of you who this may apply to. It's probably not as big of a deal on a vehicle so new b/c Black Book retail is still pretty close to what you paid.

------------------
Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.63 @ 114.5)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.3)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html

 

Wes, can you get that stated value insurance on antique automobiles? I got a 71 Trans Am insured for $20K with State Farm. I might want to switch insurance companies in the near future. It was a bit of hassle getting State Farm to ensure a 71 for that much. Costs about $200 a year. Rarely driven.

 

Yes, redlite, you can.

However, you already have a great deal. Mine rate is not quite as cheap as yours, but my stated value is a little bit higher.

State Farm covers everything I own...except the '90 LX. My insurance agent is my cousin, and he said it would cost me close to $2k for a stated value policy based on a recent appraisal.

Covering late model hot-rods is harder to do and more expensive than a "classic" like yours. My car has no "classic" value. Yours does. I'd stick with what you have if the coverage is good.

------------------
Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.63 @ 114.5)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.3)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html

 

If a theif wants your truck, IT'S HIS. All you can do is slow him down. Those steering to brake locks are easily broken as are the club. there is a tool available for about $100 that will bust any one of them in 30 seconds, I won't mention the source. If you use a club, the steering wheel can be sawn in about 15 seconds. Alarms slow down a pro by 1-5 minutes at best. Chain Your truck to a tree? Nope blue wrench, 30 seconds. the transponder keys help against starting, BUT this morning I towed a 96 Impala SS that they pushed with another car 8 miles to Cabrini Green! It wouldn't start. One of the best anti-theft devises is a 4 wheel hydralic brake lock (MICO) with a key activation that is hidden. still won't stop a flatbed. Nothing will. also for those of You with alarms, have your installer hide a second siren near the trans up high or under the spare. It will drive them NUTS. remember to hide all wiring completely or they will cut it! and add a small motorcycle battery out of site for back up. sorry for the long post. But this is important! Lloyd

 

What about Nitrous, or that really cold stuff? Remember when those ulock bike locks first came out and everyone thought they were really tough to break? They got a can of some gas that sprays a cold gas that makes metal brital...

Thats why I am putting in a kill switch.

 

That was a type of freon with the spray tube (like WD40). Definately not good for locks. Remember a kill switch only slows down a pro, but might save your truck otherwise. A desperate car theif might carjack if he wants it bad enough. All we can do is try and hope we're smarter than the theif. Lloyd

 

Maybe i'm the only one that missed it LSchicago, but what's the small Motorcylce battery for?? is that for the extra siren??

 

Blackbolt99, The purpose of the M/C battery is that when a theif is trying to disable your siren, He can disconnect Your battery in about 5 seconds. that tricks people who hear it to think someone shut it off after triping it accidentally. when you hide the MC battery where they can't find it or the 2nd siren the theif usually looks for an easier target. a minute or two is an eternity for them to hear that siren! Lloyd

 

My black 2000 Lightning is the first vehicle that I've ever bought new. Like other people have mentioned on the board, the vehicle gets a ton of attention.

One guy pulled up next to me on the freeway and said (I could read his lips) "I want your car!". Another guy pulled up to me the other day and motioned for me to roll down the window and asked "What does SVT stand for?"

Just wondering with all of this attention, has anyone heard of or had their Lightning stolen before? I'm thinking about Lojack in a month or so...

Thanks..

 

Unless you leave your keys in the tailgate at an airport, you should be OK. The passive anti-theft in these trucks requires an encoded key to start them.