Well I came up with a (Lightning specific) way of adjusting your ignition timing without a chip or programmer. Borrowing from the modular mustang aftermarket , started looking at the BBK timing adjuster that bolts onto the center bolt of the harmonic balancer. Problem with the lightning and even cobra mustang as we all know have a dual pulley set-up. The BBK is only for mustangs or modular engines with regular 1 pulley setup. Started thinking of ways to make one fit on a Lightning, you would have to have a pulley set like the metco in 2 pound or 4 pound rings 6 pound may not fit with the sensor bracket. This will work if you already run a chip or programer it may save some engines in the cold weather , if your chip or programming is set for warmer weather as you get to winter and the colder nights you will be able to retard the timing with a few turns of the screws and back the timing down, without a reburn or reflash. Anyways started watching timing adjusters on Ebay ended up buying 2 BBK's and 1 Steeda timing adjuster all for about $150 bucks. After i received them started figuring out how to adapt them to the Lightning. Luckily my stock motor is still sitting on the stand in my garage and i had the lower pulley off the piece of Sh!@t SHM motor in the truck.I installed the lower pulley and started doing some measuring as you can see the BBK hub has a key and is keyed to the balancer key those must line up to bolt it on. The easiest way to extend the BBK hub was turn down one timing hub on a lathe as you can see by the diffrent colors on the hub and mate it by welding the 2 hubs together they are just tack welded in the pics. hardest thing was keeping the keys aligned ,notching out a keyway on the turned down hub so the other hub would fit and everything be aligned. Once i had that done started working on the sensor bracket. The crankshaft position sensor is removed from side of the engine , the bracket fits in and is bolted in where the sensor was then the sensor is brought out to end of bracket to read the new BBK encoder wheel. In the pics i am using a socket for alignment thats where your sensor would go. I just took measurements and drilled and tapped holes past the original hole in the bracket to get the sensor aligned. looks as though i have plenty of clearence for the belts , still don't know if it will fit on trucks that still have the motor driven cooling fan it may be real close , I have an electric fan on mine so it fits.So adjusting the timing is a matter of loosening 4 screws to advance or retard the timing on the scale. THanks Keith PWRSRG help with posting pics .

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WOW I'm impressed
@ AZBLACKMONSOON

 

Rob 02,
I didn't think you were really into the whole timing thing......

 

TIMING, I LOVE TIMING
Schit if I could, I'd be adjusting it at every got dam red light I hit

 

that's cam timing not ignition timing though....

 

Very nice thinking out of the box. I would love to be able to adjust my timing w/out a chip or programmer.

Too bad I have a 6lb lower.

 

Who cares, it's timing, and I want to mess with it

 

I'm on a vision quest for mid 11 sec e.t with no chip or programer of any kind, timing adjuster, wideband commander guage and Kenne Bell dual boost-a-pumps and Kenne Bell blower. Just need the wideband commander and boost-a-pumps now.

 

I wish you all the luck in the world on that quest my friend
I love thinking outside the box
(my girlfriends not strong, BUT YOU OUGHT TO SEE HER BOX)
can I get a drum roll......................... wa wa waaaaaaaaa

OK But one question
--> WHY ? <--
It's obviously not a wrrnty issue, hehehehe ?
I ask for two reasons AZ, and lets put timing aside a minute,
1-REV LIMITER
2-TORQUE REDUCTION
(not to mention shift points and tip in, and I'm assuming you have A/F handled)

If ET is what your after, Tq Reduction Off, and a higher shift point
will DEF better it. And if that Beast is driven on the street, you have GOT TO be hitting that limiter, NO ???

These are just questions AZ, as said I wish you all the Luck on your quest and hope you make it
The main reason I ask is:
Personally I would have sold my L 2 weeks after I bought it if I wasn't able to dump the limiter, and Tq Reduction, I absolutely hated dealing with both, and could not have kept the L if I had to put up with hitting it all the time. (I happen to like very high shift points, and have had them as high as 5700 - 6K for a very long time) I do shift a little lower for the n20, @5300 - 5500)

Again just questions,
WHY NO CHIP BRO ?

 

A/F will be in control with the boost a pumps (I think) works fine on my 93 KENNE BELL 2.2L supercharged TBI 454ss at 15psi boost. I can adjust the A/F with the turn of the **** . Monitor and adjust it with the wide band commander. Adjusting the timing was the last variable i couldn't control without chip or programer, until now. torque reduction not real noticeable because of the 2400 stall, Stock shift points are fine for me also i don't like to rev it. This will be on a rebuilt built motor and keeping the KB at 18 psi.

 

I guess no chip is because of a ventilated engine at 9000 miles , tuners mail program had timing to high on street tune, changed out headers, no cats, and bassani at the same time of chip and couldn't hear the pinging. except for the power loss in 3rd gear, just didn't think it could be pinging until it was to late. Now i want to be in control of all the variables, the closest tuners were west coast or east coast. We now have a tuner in Scottsdale that does good work SVC motorsports . I just want to try something diffrent