Hey guys I need some help I have spent many $ and countless hours trying to make the L faster at the teck and with know luck. Here is a list of mods, any suggestions would be appreciated. This sucks I am tired off this.

BaBolt throttle body
12" open element filter
Extruded upper plenum
Extruded lower intake
Electric fan
Cobra R water pump
4# lower
1.5# upper
Mt et streets
jlp tration bars
JJ tuned superchip
PSP tuned autologic
NGK TR-6 plugs

My last dyno was done with the JJ tune and 411 rwhp 508 Rwtq I appear to be making good power but times I dont think are reflecting this. Please help any suggestions welcome.

Best time with JJ tune
.515 rt
1.895 60'
5.324 330'
8.167 1/8
85.77 mph
10.650 mph
12.757 1/4
106.82 mph

Best time with PSP tune
.535 rt
1.929 60'
5.432 330'
8.330 1/8
84.09 mph
10.858 1000'
12.994 1/4
105.59 mph

The track was well preped seem to launch well but the damn thing is just not performing to what I believe to be it should be temp outside was 55 degree's with 20% humidity. Perfect drag weather. P.S. I removed front seat tailgate, front sway bar.

 

Change your plugs .

 

Let me put a end to the plug thing I was at the track Friday and tried the denso's and no change this was my reason for going Last night as well I thought it was the plugs but that had no effect.

 

It's all in the 60 ft time now badasstruck1.

Every 1/10th off there S/B @ 2/10th better ET

I've made about 19 passes in the 2yrs with my L SO FAR

10 on the F-1's, (8) 1.9's, (1) 2.0, and (1) 1.8.

With my 28x10 Hoosiers set at @ 18 psi, thats changed to
(2) 1.6's and (6) 1.7's
(we won't talk about V's 1.95 when he drove My L)

I cant get the 1.6's I was getting at Cecil on my home track.
A matter of fact I can't get the (2) 12.0's back either at my home track, 12.3 the best so far. Thats because I'm only getting hi 1.7 60's. I need a low 1.6 to get my 11.9 run, and a mid to hi 1.6 to get my 12.0's back.

My method is simple,
nice burnout, put in drive, OD off,
don't touch gas, when ready to lauch,
put the sucker through the floor and hole on.
Works for me

BTW
Without juice using 4lbs of pulley,
I run 12.7's + 12.8's getting 1.7 60's.

 

Thank you badasstruck1.

I got tired of saying it because it seemed everyone got caught up in the Denso HYPE. These sparkplugs are not going to make you run faster. If anybody tells you that they are full of *****.

I have tested alot of sparkplugs. The NGK TR5 Iridiums were the most expensive I could bare to buy at $49. All I got was a little bit smoother idle. They actually performed like the TR6 instead of the TR5 which meant I crossed the line a 1.5 mph slower but same ET's.

The one thing I found was you want to run the hottest plug you can without destroying it. The ET gain is almost too close to call but you will cross the line with more mph.

Unless you are running extreme amounts of boost (over 6# pulley) a TR6 is not too hot of a plug. If you are burning then up check you fuel filter (fuel pressure) or talk to you tuner. You are either running too much timing or too lean.

BTW, if you gap you TR6 down to .035" your idle improves close to the Iridiums. It might cost you the slightest bit of performance but the idle is better if that bothers you.

If you lose a regular plug 9 times out of 10 it doesn't hurt anything. The same can't be said for the Iridiums. They just build up heat in the center electrode until the porcelain cracks off around it.

Oh yeah, that misfire chart is bull*****. When running lower amounts of boost the Splitfire plug gave me the highest mph crossing the line. I guess all those misfires must have produced more horsepower. The track is the gospel not some bull***** chart.

Now stepping off of soapbox.

Yes badasstruck1 you should be running better times in you location and the conditions you described with those 60' times.

 

Your 60' times should be better with ET Streets. It should actually lower your gear ratio with 26" tires. A 3.73 is like a 4.09.

Here are a couple timeslips with close or worse 60' times. The temps are similar but we usually have 60 to 70 percent humidity. I was in the left lane both times.

This was with 4# lower, chip, filter, T/B, elec. fan, 3.55 gears and F1's.




This what cutting a worse 60' can cost you.

 

Those dyno numbers sound really low.

With a 2lb pulley, I pulled 430hp and 480ft-lbs with a race program (19 degrees of timing) That was on a Mustang, so dynojet numbers would be even higher.

Coldie

 

Sounds more like it's down on power then traction!!

 

Thats why I give up!!!! I could use MT et streets and get 1.8x's and could not get 8.00's (1/8). 8.24 was best.

Went to 1/4 (street tires 32psi) could not do a 12 for nothing. But I was going 106-107 mph. best time was 13.02.

Each of these times were w/ 6# and winter side of chip.
Tried race side and detonated. It was cold outside.

Oh yeah talking about changing plugs, I use TR-6. I pulled em out, put new ones in and did not improve.

So I just give up for the time being.

 

JWLightning02,

Did you put any 104 unleaded race gas in at the track? My cold weather program is close to 3 tenths slower than my warm weather program.

I just put in $5 to $10, depending on how cold it is, into a little less that a 1/4 tank. That is 1.2 to 2.4 gallons of 104 unleaded. I have no detonation problems after that with my warm weather program. That 12.36 in my sig would have been around a 12.6 with the cold weather program.

You need to let your F1's down to about 26 psi for the best traction at the track.

 

We dont have any 104 unleaded available to us here in Portland oregon in fact we do get that crappy california gas although there was 5 gallons of 93 super put in and 3 gallons of Tolulene.