That's sweet man!

-Mike

 

captainoblivious, how did you guys determine there was a vacuum (and where?). If I were to shoot cold air into the airbox/heat shield I designed, should I have it come in near the fender side? Or do you recommend a specific orientaton/direction?

Found something else in the office, and it got me thinking...

 

We (Jim and I) removed the hoses and the problem stopped, so Jim (JDM) had figured it out.

If you run hoses there should not be any problems, as the the kit you made is not closed of like the stock airbox is. Actually if you put hoses it would be more resembling Sal's Fast Air kit.

 

Nice job

And they say necessity is the mother of invention

Sent you an e-mail answering your question

 

I think Rob_02Lightning should call his set-up "The Squirrel Sucker"! lol jk

Roger

 

i hate to be so sceptical about things......there no doubt your project came out great and i have been planning to do something similar untill i thought about this....

we buy these cold air intake kits, then we buy these air systems and boxes that surround the filter..........why not just put a k&n panel filter in the stock air box and not waste any money.

I would really like to see some dyno comparrisons with the stock airbox with the k&n, vs one of the tuners cold air kits (boxes surrounding the filters.

There's no doubt that when i put my JDM kit on, the blower whined twice as loud......but if your covering them up with these kits what's the point???? How cold is the air gonna be if your pulling them with these fast air , or ram air kits, when it's 80 degrees out and the track temp is much more????

I'm 100% not knocking any of the tuner's products, that's not my point, my point is how much factual information is there that that these things are drawing that much more cooler air, especially when the temps are up there in the summer.........rather than the stock air box???? Has anyone really done a temperature and flow comparisson, rather than a seat of the pants test??? Sal.... Johnny??

 

I agree - we need more hard data! Some folks on here have said that the air gets very hot once compressed in the S/C anyway, and is then cooled down in the intercooler so the original intake temp is not as important.... but does anyone else have any data or experience to support that claim?

Sal once said: "The stock or modified/stock airbox is fine if you run stock or up to +3 PSIG extra, but it's definitely not for trucks running over +4 PSIG. On the dyno, trucks set up like that will drop off in power early, from the lack of adequate airflow. Happens every time."

If more hot air is better than less cold air, I am taking my receipt and "Rubbermaid Racing" heat shield back to Home Depot and demanding a refund for a defective product!

 

Great engineerng there:tu: The whole reason of the open filter is to get away from the restrictive opening in the fender. When you seal it you are back to square one. I suggest running a 3 or 4" snorkel line down from the bottom and that will help a lot. That little inlet in the fender is evil you need more air

 

That's the plan for phase 2: route more cold air into this region. Just evaluating my options for tubing material etc. It would be nice to stick with stuff in the Rubbermaid catalog.

 

I remember reading a post from a couple of months ago where there was a discussion about losing low end hp and/or torque after installing one of these cone filter kits on a stock motor with the stock pullies. I beleive it was one of the guys from Razor's Edge that said he was of the opinion that you should use the stock airbox until you put a 4lb or greater pulley on to keep from losing the low end.
BMWBig6 or anyone, are you running the stock pulley with your cone filter kit, and if so, have you noticed a drop on the low end?

Hopefully someone will have some data on the hot versus cold air discussion from above. If it turns out that the hot air is not as critical than I think I am going to lein towards cutting holes in the bottom of my stock airbox since I have the stock pullies.

I'm just trying to make a correlation.
ie. Stock or 2lbs pullies = Stock air box w/ K&N panel filter, and holes cut in bottom
4lbs & up = One of the cone air kits from the tuners & a cold air sheetmetal or rubbermaid enclosure (which is still up in the air)

Eric

 

Stock for now, but this mod is in anticipation of future enhancements. I never noticed a drop in the low end, but seemed to feel better throttle response overall. But that could have been just all the new noise. There is definitely not a percepible loss in the low end (or gain anywhere for that matter). The only other change I noticed was that my aftermarket boost gauge was reading a little higher with just the silly cone filter.

 

Guys here is some "old" info:

http://198.65.157.241/forums/showthr...t=intake+temps

Dan

 

MAN I'VE BEEN TRYING TO COME UP WITH SOMETHING LIKE THIS FOR MONTHS,I HAVE THE SAME SETUP AS YOU AND NOW I'M ON MY WAY TO HOME DEPOT does it sound like i'm excited?????????

 

I love the theory of a trash can intake As for real world data I have collected. I run Ease Diagnostics which is a high end scan tool. I data logged mph and IAT (intake air temp) readings. Anything above 25-30mph and IAT on an open element filter was within 2 degrees of ambient. So for everyone that thinks they are losing HP not having a trash can intake there it is. Once the truck is rolling the fresh air purging the engine bay is within 2 degrees of ambient. Another thing I noticed was with a PSP FAST air scoop/box system. Durring the summer it picked up a lot of radiant heat from the road surface. The IAT ran 14 degrees warmer than ambient.

 

I've done a little temperature testing on the Lightning. Also a bunch of pressure & tempature testing back in my 5.0L stang days.

My professional opinion and experience is that relieving the delta P is much more important than ducting in "cool air".

Another thing I'll add, You don't get much better uniform air flow than having a conical filter right in front of the MAF.

WOT