Led bed lights, $2 on amazon
#16
06-20-2015, 09:15 PM
Senior Member
#17
11-05-2015, 11:00 PM
I imagine that a lot of people who put those third-brake-light LED strips under their tailgates a few years ago had bad experiences because it was terrible placement. Right in the gap between the bumper and the tailgate. Those were destined to be broken the instant they were installed. I remember seeing a lot of them when they first came out, but can't remember the last time I saw one.
On the other hand, installing strips under the side rails has very favorable placement. I'm surprised a lot more people aren't doing it.
I have been using this type of stick-on LED strip underneath kitchen cabinet installs for about five years. Had the idea to do to stick some in my truck bed a few years back, thought it was pretty good idea, and couldn't think of anything that would kill it, but I never put it into action.
Super happy to see that someone has done it successfully. It's the correct place to put the strips.
Some hints.
1. Hiding the lights up under the rail should keep them very safe from the elements, it's really the key to the entire install. But if i was going to do this, I'd cut and reseal a flat-type rope light instead of using sticky strips with exposed circuits. You can get ropes cut to whatever length you want.
2. Another key is the fact that they (some) are designed for 12 volts. I don't have any real data, but I imagine that even cheap LEDs will deal quite easily with the variable power output of a vehicle alternator. Almost all LEDs are dimmable. If there is a problem, it is with over-voltage when the alternator is pumping 14 or more volts. The cheepo LED strips might not like this, but honestly, I don't overdriving them will be a problem at all.
In my kitchen installs i don't have to think about amperage, because I use AC power supplies designed to power X feet of strip. So I looked at the stat sheet and was surprised by just how little current they draw. A 70 foot roll of what I use (which is probably three times the power of what you have) draws a measly 1.8 amps. I'm guessing your install is less than half an amp. Maybe less than a quarter amp. ... no wonder i wasn't concerned about amperage.
Just make sure the LEDs are switched off before connecting or disconnecting the battery. No need for an isolation transformer.
3. Obstructions casting shadows can be a problem, and kill the overall look of the project. Think of where the light will project, and place the strips as far into the corner as you can, to get as much usable light as possible, where it needs to be, with nothing casting shadows.
4. The best thing to do is what you did, start in one rear corner, follow the rail to the front and all the way around to the other corner, and then cut off or double back any excess.
It is easy to cut the strips to any length, and run wire between separate strips, but every cut in your LED strip means connectors to buy, and each one is a possible failure point. You can also buy strips already cut to your exact needs. The fewer cuts the better.
4. The glue on the cheepo lights is often less than satisfactory, but all is not lost if it fails. Get some genuine 3M double sided foam tape and stick it under the rail, then stick the light to the tape. This may cost more than your entire install to this point. Next time, insist on 3M adhesive on the strip.
Wider, single-sided foam tape will work great to hide the parts of your wiring that are left exposed.
5. You have to be familiar with the options before you shop. All the top quality strips are moving away from 12 volt. A U.S. source of the highest quality strip lights is environmentallights dot com. Unfortunately almost everything they sell is 24 volt because they want to have the longest runs possible in architectural settings.
in other news....
Truly remarkable advances are being made in the field of LED illumination. You can drop some serious cash on it, and the funny thing is, it's probably worth it.
This is definitely the best time in history to buy a flashlight, try candlepowerforums.
I recommend buying a bored elzetta from oveready. It's big dollars, but if you get one, YOU WILL NOT BE SORRY. Unless of course you lose it.
On the other hand, installing strips under the side rails has very favorable placement. I'm surprised a lot more people aren't doing it.
I have been using this type of stick-on LED strip underneath kitchen cabinet installs for about five years. Had the idea to do to stick some in my truck bed a few years back, thought it was pretty good idea, and couldn't think of anything that would kill it, but I never put it into action.
Super happy to see that someone has done it successfully. It's the correct place to put the strips.
Some hints.
1. Hiding the lights up under the rail should keep them very safe from the elements, it's really the key to the entire install. But if i was going to do this, I'd cut and reseal a flat-type rope light instead of using sticky strips with exposed circuits. You can get ropes cut to whatever length you want.
2. Another key is the fact that they (some) are designed for 12 volts. I don't have any real data, but I imagine that even cheap LEDs will deal quite easily with the variable power output of a vehicle alternator. Almost all LEDs are dimmable. If there is a problem, it is with over-voltage when the alternator is pumping 14 or more volts. The cheepo LED strips might not like this, but honestly, I don't overdriving them will be a problem at all.
In my kitchen installs i don't have to think about amperage, because I use AC power supplies designed to power X feet of strip. So I looked at the stat sheet and was surprised by just how little current they draw. A 70 foot roll of what I use (which is probably three times the power of what you have) draws a measly 1.8 amps. I'm guessing your install is less than half an amp. Maybe less than a quarter amp. ... no wonder i wasn't concerned about amperage.
Just make sure the LEDs are switched off before connecting or disconnecting the battery. No need for an isolation transformer.
3. Obstructions casting shadows can be a problem, and kill the overall look of the project. Think of where the light will project, and place the strips as far into the corner as you can, to get as much usable light as possible, where it needs to be, with nothing casting shadows.
4. The best thing to do is what you did, start in one rear corner, follow the rail to the front and all the way around to the other corner, and then cut off or double back any excess.
It is easy to cut the strips to any length, and run wire between separate strips, but every cut in your LED strip means connectors to buy, and each one is a possible failure point. You can also buy strips already cut to your exact needs. The fewer cuts the better.
4. The glue on the cheepo lights is often less than satisfactory, but all is not lost if it fails. Get some genuine 3M double sided foam tape and stick it under the rail, then stick the light to the tape. This may cost more than your entire install to this point. Next time, insist on 3M adhesive on the strip.
Wider, single-sided foam tape will work great to hide the parts of your wiring that are left exposed.
5. You have to be familiar with the options before you shop. All the top quality strips are moving away from 12 volt. A U.S. source of the highest quality strip lights is environmentallights dot com. Unfortunately almost everything they sell is 24 volt because they want to have the longest runs possible in architectural settings.
in other news....
Truly remarkable advances are being made in the field of LED illumination. You can drop some serious cash on it, and the funny thing is, it's probably worth it.
This is definitely the best time in history to buy a flashlight, try candlepowerforums.
I recommend buying a bored elzetta from oveready. It's big dollars, but if you get one, YOU WILL NOT BE SORRY. Unless of course you lose it.
#18
02-10-2018, 06:50 AM
#19
02-10-2018, 09:48 AM
