critique my aux/reverse light wiring diagram please

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Old 04-17-2011, 07:14 PM
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Lightbulb critique my aux/reverse light wiring diagram please

I finally have all my parts assembled and ready to install, how does this wiring diagram look? my goals are:

lights can be on when truck is off or on
lights on automatically when put in R
lights can be turned off when in R

I am not quite sure how to do the SPDT switch wiring to make it manually on, off, and auto on...

light specs are:

two 5x3w LED flood lights

This Hi Power 100mm Square Off Road Flood Light uses 5 x 3W Hi Power LED bulbs for an incredible output of 1125 Lumens per housing.
Average lifespan of these lamps is over 25000 hours.
Input voltage: 9 - 32V
Light output: 1125 Lumens
Waterproof Rating: IP67
Warranty: 1 Year
Weight: 1.45 lbs (including hardware)

 
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:18 PM
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wiring is a bit thick and you dont need a 40A relay, thats kind of overkill for an LED setup
 
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Raptor05121
wiring is a bit thick and you dont need a 40A relay, thats kind of overkill for an LED setup
I couldnt find a smaller relay locally, do you think it will hurt anything?
 
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:42 PM
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what is a SPDT switch? i been wanting to do the same exact thing!
 
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 88rxn/a
what is a SPDT switch? i been wanting to do the same exact thing!
SPDT stands for single pole double throw. it should allow the lights to function how I want, but I am not sure i have the power runs set correctly.

I found these diagrams as well, but dont really understand the whole diagram thing, I have never done this kind of thing before



 
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by snowfiend
SPDT stands for single pole double throw. it should allow the lights to function how I want, but I am not sure i have the power runs set correctly.

I found these diagrams as well, but dont really understand the whole diagram thing, I have never done this kind of thing before



The top diagram is your best bet. You could really simplify this by not even using the relay if I'm understanding your lights properly. There are 2 lights with 5 3 watt led's? That is 30 watts total, your total amp draw depending on the voltage of the battery and alternator is 2 to 2.5 amps. You could use a simple SPDT switch in the cab. Wire the common center of the switch to the LED's. wire one of the NO contacts of the switch to the factory reverse lights and the other NO contact of the switch to a constant hot. The top position of the switch is auto lights on in reverse, center position is off, and down postion is constant on. Just be careful where you mount the switch as to not accidently turn them on while driving. Hope that helps a little.

Tim
 
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:45 PM
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Ok so the backup lights work manually, but do not come on automatically when put in reverse. I tapped into fuse 15 which on the 2011 says reverse lights/high mount light. the reverse lights in the tail lamp come on but the aux lights do not come on. any ideas why?
 
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:31 AM
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How did you "tap" into the fuse box? Did you ground properly?
 
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Raptor05121
How did you "tap" into the fuse box? Did you ground properly?
I used one of these attached to fuse 15, with two 15A fuses in it:



The lights seem to be grounded properly as they do come on manually.
 
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Old 04-21-2011, 10:10 AM
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Here is a diagram I made some time ago.



Needs a SPDT switch ( you can install this where you want, the text shows for mounting it in the rear of the truck.).

I used a SPDT switch that had a center off, this is not required.

I used 14 AWG ( that is what I had ) for my sound off signal LED lights, to the 7 pin trailer tow adapter and they come to full brightness.

Do not try to drive them off the truck's reverse lamps, even 1 A more draw on them, and the aux lamps will not come to full brightness ( I did the test just to know with the truck-lite back up LEDs I had before ).

The orange wire in the diagram is to the trailer tow battery circuit, which means hot in run only. If you want hot without the truck on, you will need to either : pull the relay and jumper the normally open contacts in the relay socket or run a fused wire from the battery to the rear of the truck.
 
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:15 PM
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SSCULLY for the save
 
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:25 PM
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This is why I stick to mechanical things

I noticed the reverse lights in the tail lamps were not coming on anymore. I pulled both the add-a-fuses and replaced with the factory fuses to just put it back to stock for now and the stock reverse lights still do not work. I know this shouldnt be this hard but I just cant get this working correctly
 
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Old 04-22-2011, 01:49 AM
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Is said fuse still good? Use a DMM to test it. Check the bulbs.
 
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:52 AM
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This is a 2011 MY ?

If so, what Fuse #15 are you referring to ( BJB or SJB ) ?

BJB Fuse #15 is empty and SJB fuse #15 is the climate control for the 2009 MY ( which should / might be the same for the 2011 MY ).

I only have the 2009 Diagrams and Owners Manual handy, and it shows BJB ( aka battery Junction box / engine compartment fuse panel ) Fuse # 54, 5A fuse for the fuse to the DTR to power the backup lamp relay.

The actual lamps are through the relay ( for both the truck & the trailer tow adapter ) normally open contacts, which is fed by fuse # 43, 20A.

The reversing lamp relay feeds direct to the truck's reverse lamps, and then to fuse # 58 for the trailer tow adapter ( so a show on the trailer takes out the fuse for the trailer, not the truck's also ).

If there were not any major changes from 2009 to 2011, might want to recheck the fuse #'s and make sure the the correct fuses still have power in the run position, on both sides of the fuse.

Also, which way did you install them ? ( not 100% sure which method you used )
 
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SSCULLY
This is a 2011 MY ?

If so, what Fuse #15 are you referring to ( BJB or SJB ) ?

BJB Fuse #15 is empty and SJB fuse #15 is the climate control for the 2009 MY ( which should / might be the same for the 2011 MY ).

I only have the 2009 Diagrams and Owners Manual handy, and it shows BJB ( aka battery Junction box / engine compartment fuse panel ) Fuse # 54, 5A fuse for the fuse to the DTR to power the backup lamp relay.

The actual lamps are through the relay ( for both the truck & the trailer tow adapter ) normally open contacts, which is fed by fuse # 43, 20A.

The reversing lamp relay feeds direct to the truck's reverse lamps, and then to fuse # 58 for the trailer tow adapter ( so a show on the trailer takes out the fuse for the trailer, not the truck's also ).

If there were not any major changes from 2009 to 2011, might want to recheck the fuse #'s and make sure the the correct fuses still have power in the run position, on both sides of the fuse.

Also, which way did you install them ? ( not 100% sure which method you used )
here is a link to the 2011 owners manual, fuse info is on page 326 http://www.flmowner.com/servlet/Cont...rd&model=F-150

I used the interior fuse box located near the passenger side door using the above add a fuse connectors to tap into power. I ran the two power lines to the spdt dash switch, and then ran a single power line to the reverse lights. lights are grounded to a bolt near the trailer hitch. no relays used.

does that help?
 


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