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2010 F150 Lariat blend door problem.

I got a 2010 F150 Lariat with dual temp control. This winter it started blowing cold only on the passenger side. As seen in several posts I thought the fix was the blend door actuator behind and to the right of the radio. I replaced it with a Motorcraft part following instructions and now it blows only hot on the passenger side. Thinking I may have not done something right I bought another Motorcraft actuator and replaced it again (I got a lot faster the second go round) and it still blows hot. I know the door is not stuck as I put an allen wrench in there and turned it back and forth a little making sure the splines lined up with the acutator. I also pulled the #15 fuse to let it recalibrate as part of the process. As a last resort I even disconnected the batter for over a minute to no avail. What have I missed or what should I check into next?

Run a diagnostic self test on the EATC.

http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/eatcswap/selftest.html

Thanks but that diagnotic self test is for an earlier generation than what I have. I pulled the dash apart again (I got it down fast now) and viewd the actuator while still plugged in. When it calibrates it turned clockwise but after that neither temperature control knob had any effect on it. I confirmed again the door does work. Any other tips? Could it be the dash control unit?

What doesn't work in those self-test instructions? No OFF button? Isn't the driver's side temperature knob the OFF button when you push in on it?

The 2010 doesn't use the EATC anymore, his model has the DATC (Dual Automatic Temperature Controller), a newer generation control module. Time to evolve. ;)

I couldn't find any mention of a DATC self test that can be initiated from the front panel in the 2010 WSM so I don't know if one exists or not. Google wasn't much help, either.

Edit:

Okay, spent some time poking through the WSMs since earlier this AM.

The last WSM to provide a self test procedure for the F150 DATC was for the 2008 model year. After that, the WSM makes no mention of any self test and only provides instructions for pulling DTCs using the IDS system.

I did note that the procedure for launching the self test was DIFFERENT for the DATC than it was for the older EATC systems. I'll cut and past that in a moment (it's on a different system). I'd suspect it might be worth trying to see if the self test is still resident in the newer HVAC modules.

From 2008 WSM Section 412-00:

Quote:

HVAC Module — Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) On-Demand Self Test

The HVAC Module — Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) On-Demand Self Test will retrieve on-demand (hard fault) DTCs only, it will not retrieve continuous DTCs. Continuous DTCs can be cleared when exiting the self-test. Make sure to retrieve continuous DTCs by carrying out the HVAC Module — Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) — Retrieve Continuous DTCs procedure before clearing any DTCs.

The HVAC Module — Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) On-Demand Self Test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The HVAC Module — Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) On-Demand Self Test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display on-demand (hard fault) DTCs for concerns that are present during the self-test. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-38°C (40°-100°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false DTCs may be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and release, then press the AUTO button within 2 seconds. The display will show a flashing blower icon for 20 seconds, after which all vacuum fluorescent segments will be displayed if there are no on-demand DTCs present. If DTCs are present, the HVAC module — EATC will display "00 00" and then on-demand DTCs. Record all DTCs displayed.
If any DTCs appear during the self-test, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the HVAC Module — Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) DTC Chart and follow the ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart - Climate Control Systems Condition: The HVAC module — EATC System is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
To exit the self-test and retain all DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The HVAC module — EATC will exit the self-test and retain all DTCs.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Once the self-test is exited, the ignition switch must remain ON for at least 30 seconds to allow the door actuators to automatically recalibrate.
If a condition exists, but no on-demand DTCs appear during the self-test, carry out the HVAC Module — Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) and HVAC Module — Dual Automatic Temperature Control (DATC) — Retrieve Continuous DTCs self test.

HVAC Module — Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) — Retrieve Continuous DTCs

The HVAC module — electronic automatic temperature control (EATC) will retrieve only continuous (intermittent and hard) DTCs when carrying out this procedure.

Retrieval of continuous DTCs can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when retrieving continuous DTCs.
To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and release, then press the RECIRC button within 2 seconds. All vacuum fluorescent segments will be displayed if there are no continuous DTCs present. Continuous DTCs are indicated by the presence of the degrees Celsius symbol (°C) on the HVAC module — EATC display. Record all DTCs displayed.
NOTE: If continuous DTC(s) appear but the same DTC(s) do not appear during an on-demand self test, the fault may be intermittent in nature. Diagnosis should be conducted accordingly.

If any DTCs appear, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the HVAC Module — Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) DTC Chart and follow the ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear, GO to Symptom Chart - Climate Control Systems Condition: The HVAC — EATC System is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
To exit and retain all continuous DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The HVAC module — EATC will exit the retrieved continuous DTCs mode and retain all continuous DTCs.
To exit and clear all continuous DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The HVAC module — EATC will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and all continuous DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the procedure before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Once the procedure is exited, the ignition switch must remain ON for at least 30 seconds to allow the door actuators to automatically recalibrate.
Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs.

HVAC Module Cold Boot Process

The purpose of the cold boot process is to allow the HVAC module to re-initialize and calibrate the door actuators. To carry out the cold boot process, follow the steps below.

Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Disconnect the HVAC module electrical connectors.
Wait one minute.
Connect the HVAC module electrical connectors.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Select any position except OFF on the HVAC module.
The HVAC module will now initialize and calibrate the mode doors. Calibration of the mode doors will take approximately 30 seconds.

LBT, I just had the same thing happen. I offered to fix my friends 2010 F150 Lariat with Dual AC. Also has Navigation. Only blowing cold air on passenger side. Drivers side fully adjustable. So from researching, it seemed like it was the upper blend door actuator. Got it out, new Ford part put in. Pulled the fuse, turned the key per calibration instructions. Still has cold air on passenger side.
Listening carefully and adjusting the drivers side, I can hear that actuator adjusting the blend door. Passenger side, nothing. I did take the actuator apart that I removed. On the first pin it says 5V. So I reached up and unplugged the new actuator. Took my meter and verified that there is 5 volts in the plug. That's as far I got. I did plug the removed actuator in the plug and tried adjusting the temperature. The actuator did not respond. So, now I am not even sure if this is an actuator issue. Maybe the signal from the display is not being relayed to the actuator. Or maybe I have a new (bad) actuator as well. Anybody have any ideas here? Just trying to help a friend out. Turning into much more! Thanks in advance for any help. Bob F

oe542bob, what you described is exactly what I experienced when working on mine. I finally took mine to the local dealer to diagnose. I told them upfront what happened, what I did so far, and what I think it is. They charged me 1/2 hour to put it on the scan tool and they said the passenger side actuator was showing a fault. The tech said he found that "testing" them not plugged into the door spline burns them up. Don't know if that is true and if I believe that but long story short I bought another (Motorcraft) actuator and will try it again this weekend.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LBT (Post 5137814)

LBT, Ok, I'm on my way to get another actuator. Right on the bag it says "if opened, not returnable ". I called and talked to a parts guy I know at the dealership, and he said he would exchange it. I have the replacement out now. Checked to make sure blend door wasn't hanging up. All good. I can adjust the heat manually with an Allen wrench. I am getting pretty quick at this. HAHA! Keeping my fingers crossed.

Update: picked up 2nd new actuator. Installed it. It just will not work. Although now for some reason, now it is blowing full heat. Can't get it to adjust at all. The calibration steps are easy enough, but it just won't work. Maybe it is a bad control module somewhere. It's out of my hands now. Don't know what else I can do.
LBT, I was playing around with the hard buttons. I pushed in the button for auto on the panel. Something doesn't seem quite right. Plus if I pushed the auto a 2nd time, it would not go out. Only way I could get it to go off of the auto mode was to push the fan - button. Manually by using the display on the navigation head, all functions seemed to react correctly.
Well, just trying to help out a bud. Guess it will need to go to the dealer after all. Good luck with yours. Let me know if you come up with a "magic" bullet!
Oh, I didn't try any testing of the actuator until it was installed. Read on the tech page, it said not to do that. It will cause the actuator to be in the wrong position. Then it won't function correctly. Didn't say anything about damaging it electrically.

LBT, just wanted to let you know the latest. My buddy came and got his truck last night. Next step is getting it hooked up to scan for any codes.
If you would like, I have the Pinpoint Test/Diagnosis in a pdf file. It shows what and how to diagnose different codes. But the codes need to be pulled with the Scan computer. But the testing per the procedures could still be done even without the actual codes. It's pretty long. If you send me your address, I could forward it to you.
The Ford tech I talked to said these trucks can not be read for codes without a Scan computer. Bob F

Did anyone ever get this resolved? I am having the same problem after replacing my actuator today..

The temp control is working on the driver side. The passenger side does not work. From all i have read it is the actuator located behind the radio. Is this incorrect? What was really strange is that when i finished replacing the one behind the radio instead of blowing outside or ambient air it was blowing heat.. So something changed but the end result was not what I wanted.. This makes me believe it may not be blend door... But First was my initial diagnosis correct since I have full function on driver side?

So is there anything that can cause symptoms that are similar to the blend door actuator? What could cause the blend door to malfunction other than itself? Me and LBT have had the same problem.. We both replaced the Actuator and then it blows hot after previously blowing ambient or outside air. LBT even had the dealer diagnose his as the actuator. From what I understand has replaced it twice! Hard to believe they are selling bad actuators off the shelf.. Anybody want to chime in here. Could the actuator be getting the wrong signal? Is there an alternate calibration method?