Need help on Boost Bypass ?????
Got all the parts to do it right but last night when I went to hook up my T to the hose in the firewall, like the lightnings do I find that we dont have it. Or I can't find it.
Have any of you done this and what do you hook it up to ?
HELP !!!!!!!
Have any of you done this and what do you hook it up to ?
HELP !!!!!!!
Last edited by GT-40 GTS; Apr 25, 2002 at 10:22 AM.
Hey GT:
The boost actuator is on the left rear (from the drivers seat)of the intake manifold close to the s/C. The actuator is there but it seems to be more hidden on the HD than on the L (more hoses and tubing for some reason)
You can try to unloosed the 2 10mm bolts and raise the body of the actuator a LITTLE off the bracket. This makes the boost come on a little sooner when the vacumn decreases (when you mash it). PS. tape your socket to the extension or use a locking extension-you are almost doing this by feel because of the hoses and tubes-- especially on the rear bolt.
My results were mixed. Yes the boost seemed to appear a little sooner (using the boost gauge) but I couldn't feel any difference. And I could not call it a scientific test.
As far as a disconnecting the boost bypass. I can remember no solid evidence that it does anything. The service manual says the bypass MUST function to allow some bleed-off of the s/C so that it doesn't cavitate. It further states that increased fuel consumption, and loss of power will result from the cavitation.
The best mods for power on the L were, pulleys, air box, chip. I suspect the s/C HD will respond the same. Other mods such as exhaust, cooling fans, headers, have in my opinion, produced mixed results and seem to have a high cost for the modest gains they result in. BTW if someone claims "X HP realized from this mod", I'd discount the claim by at least 40%- 50% in the real world. It makes you think about $$/HP carefully.
Regards,
Frank
The boost actuator is on the left rear (from the drivers seat)of the intake manifold close to the s/C. The actuator is there but it seems to be more hidden on the HD than on the L (more hoses and tubing for some reason)
You can try to unloosed the 2 10mm bolts and raise the body of the actuator a LITTLE off the bracket. This makes the boost come on a little sooner when the vacumn decreases (when you mash it). PS. tape your socket to the extension or use a locking extension-you are almost doing this by feel because of the hoses and tubes-- especially on the rear bolt.
My results were mixed. Yes the boost seemed to appear a little sooner (using the boost gauge) but I couldn't feel any difference. And I could not call it a scientific test.
As far as a disconnecting the boost bypass. I can remember no solid evidence that it does anything. The service manual says the bypass MUST function to allow some bleed-off of the s/C so that it doesn't cavitate. It further states that increased fuel consumption, and loss of power will result from the cavitation.
The best mods for power on the L were, pulleys, air box, chip. I suspect the s/C HD will respond the same. Other mods such as exhaust, cooling fans, headers, have in my opinion, produced mixed results and seem to have a high cost for the modest gains they result in. BTW if someone claims "X HP realized from this mod", I'd discount the claim by at least 40%- 50% in the real world. It makes you think about $$/HP carefully.
Regards,
Frank


