Check out White Roush's thread. Sounds like it should be right up your alley.

 

ON a true dual setup, I have reduced greatly the non symetrical issue.
I criss cross my tailpipes coming out of the mufflers so I am running the passenger bank exhaust out of the drivers side and vice versa. What that does, is equals the exhaust more closely instead of making the drivers side bank go across to the pass frame rail and then back across to the drivers rear and out. That 2.5ft of tubing you loose up front, you get back after the muffler. Works well.

That makes both sides very close to equal. I add an H pipe for good measure and get a really nice sounding exhaust system. Use Dynomax Super turbos with flow through tubes in 2.5 inch diameter and some echo tubes and it sounds mellow, but good.

Thats the only way I know to equal the pipes up on a true dual system. Have done it on 1 Ford and 4 chevy's. Can't say it helped the power all that much. I didn't dyno it.
I have picture, but don't know how to post them.

 

I don't see that adding anything really, but it is pretty interesting. Pics would be nice too.

 

What it is adding is balance to the system. You are gaining to pipes that are much closer to equal length than running the drivers side out the drivers side. In that configuration, that pipe is about 3 to 4ft longer than the pass side. by switching the tailpipes at the mufflers, you make the pass side exit at the drivers side.

Obviously this only works if you run your tail pipes out the back, or at angles on both corners. If you have both coming out one side, then this is of no benifit

 

That's what the cross over is for, equalizing the pressure between the pipes. I'm just guesstimating, but I would say there is a 1-2 HP difference at the most. I think bend quality and pipe size would affect it more than criss-crossing the pipes. But I still want to see how you did it, for future reference.

 

It takes the dependence off of the cross over. IF there is enough difference in resistance between the two sides, it is going to force more exhaust through the crossover. This way, it balances the system much closer and the cross over just picks up the small differences, and not huge ones, because there won't be any.

Also, it is very easy to do. the mufflers are right together, might be a inch more pipe used on each one. I have never dynoed it before and after, but I figure the more closely I can make the two pipes equal, the better scavenging I can get.

 

It was dark outside.. But the sound is good!!

Magnaflow SISO 2.5"
2005 FX4

 

Gentlemen,

At the risk of hijacking this thread from the current discussion on piping configuration, I was wondering if anyone could comment on material type: aluminized, T409, and T304 stainless steel. I plan on keeping my 2010 for at least a dozen years, I live in a wet climate, and I don't want to be replacing the exhaust if I don't have to.

Aluminized stainless steel is not in the running but I was wondering if anyone had any opinions as to whether is it worth it to go with the higher nickel and chromium content of T304 stainless steel or settle for T409.

Thanks in advance.

 

I meant to add a section devoted to just piping and materials, but haven't gotten around to it. The best pipe material you can get is 304 stainless, and would be the best if you plan on keeping your truck for at least a dozen years.

 

Obx = T304 Low Carbon SS. - .065" or 16 gauge.

Pacesetters = .065"/16-gauge carbon steel (Steel).

 

didnt end up selling my 94106 cats and just had them installed today. They had to order some 02 extenders so as of now my CIL is on. Anybody else who had some hi-flows installed have to put some 02 extenders on? The sound is so much better though!

 

anybody think the super 10 series flowmasters flow good? i mean really, its one chamber with two wing plates in it, i cant see how it doesnt flow all that great...

 

Compared to any straight-through muffler, a 10 series flows like ****, like all chambered mufflers.

 

i too plan on running my truck forever...even if the engine fails on me i dont see why not to rebuild and start from scratch...i aint too affectionate with switching trucks every 5 years or whatever it is and i will be having a shop do a custom si/do magnapack with T304 on thursday, the downpayment has been given and i will be posting pics and vids asap, some of you may recall my other thread, but the est. was $450 with 409 and apparantly 304 is easier to bend so a couple bucks for the pipng/bending/welding and the average 100 something expectancy of the pipes is worth it, cuz i dont want to replace anything in 5 years or 10...or 15

 

I just read through this, thanks again to Titan357 for the link. Good information!