So I left my lights on the other day and my battier died, jumped it and ever sense my truck has been idling like crap! P0506 popped up (Idle Air Control (IAC) System RPM Lower Than Expected) Any ideas? I read somewhere that it could be caused by a dirty MAF, so I cleaned it using Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner and unplugged the battier so it can relearn, turned it over, ran good for a minute then started idling like crap again and shot up the same code.

 

I would get the battery checked at the parts store before going any further.

 

Above is incorrect. I had exact problem with my 04 F150 4.6. Only solution is below. Ford , despite causing this design issue, will not rimburse you. Procedure worked, but cost me $140.


Some 2004-2006 F-150 (excludes Heritage) vehicles equipped with 4.6L or 5.4L engine, and 2006 Mark LT vehicles, may exhibit one or more of the following symptoms: drive-away hesitation, loss of RPM on deceleration, difficulty starting, and/or idle RPM less than desired. Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) may be illuminated with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0506 and/or P0505. These conditions may appear after battery disconnect, dead battery condition, or keep alive memory (KAM) reset. The symptoms may be due to engine deposits in the throttle leading to airflow less than desired.

ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM) to the latest calibration using IDS release 53.9 and higher or 54.1 and higher. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2008.1 DVD. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com. The calibration contains a sludge compensation strategy for the throttle body.
Turn the key off to re-initialize the PCM. This will allow the sludge compensation strategy to learn.
With the vehicle in park or neutral and A/C off, start vehicle and allow engine to reach normal operating temperature (greater than 170 °F (77 °C) coolant temperature). Run an additional 5 minutes to allow sufficient learning time.
While the engine is running, using IDS datalogger or equivalent, check the PID value of ETC_TRIM.
If ETC_TRIM value is 3.0 degrees or greater then replace the electronic throttle body (ETB), following Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-04B.
If ETC_TRIM value is less than 3.0 degrees, and driveability concerns persist, the ETB is not the likely cause of the concern and replacement is not necessary. Continue with normal PC/ED diagnostics.

 

actually torkum isnt "incorrect". thats just a wrong thing to say especially on this forum just so you know. a low or bad battery will keep the pcm from being able to relearn itself therefore the idle will be off a bit. now i have never heard of whatever your talking about, where did you here about this? i do know there are updates for the electronic throttles and such even though some dealerships will deny it so you'll leave them with the vehicle and they can charge you for whatever they want. i'd check into that.

 

This was supplied to me by KyleFordtech on Just Answer. This TSB covers a # of Ford vehicles. Dealers are aware of "dead battery"problem causing this. It is TSB 08-5-13 as well as NHTSA ID#10024828 (3-01-08). I tried reboots & throttle body cleaning myself to no avail. Of course, Ford dealership (San Tan Ford) attempted to sell me a throttle body replacement
but I insisted on them following the above TSB. I have had zero issues since. I attempted to get reimbursement from Ford w/o result;though this is an emission issue which should be under 80,000 mi warranty.

 

ok. just remember dont say someone is incorrect because the last person that did had this whole website on his case because he said jbrew was wrong.
just figured i'd warn you.

 

Thanks, I will avoid it in the future. Just thought I would save him some time/money.
By the way, Josh at dealership initially denied TSB existed then came up with the same material that KyleFordTech sent me.
Slaterock

 

Just so you know, Torkum is a Ford tech. Taking the battery to an auto parts store for a full recharge and load test is always a good idea after draining a battery all the way down anyway, and the cost is nominal. Jumping and running it will not adequately recharge a totally flat battery.

 

Why don't you apologize to rectify the past ehh ? That would do it.