I have an '01 F250 CC LWB. I recently bought a White Knight back-up Light System and need to get it mounted and wired(hopefully this coming weekend)...

When the Jeraco Cap was installed on the truck, the installer ran a line direct from the battery to the 12v light in the cap.

The White Night should be able to connect into the towing harness wiring (for actually switching on, etc). Should I be able to tap into the existing 12v line that was strung for my cap? Or should I look into running an additional line?

Any specific experience/pointers in wiring the white night system?

Thanks in advance.

Michael

If I didn't (know to) include enough or the right information, please feel free to gently guide me.

 

You didn't note if you had the factory tow package, but I'm guessing you do,what with that tall rear end. If you do have the tow package, then you have the seven pin trailer connector, and you have the following wires:

Yellow - left stop/turn
green - right stop/turn
brown/white - tail lights
white - ground
blue - electric brake feed
orange - trailer battery feed
black/light green - backup lights

As you can see, there is a trailer backup lights wire, and there is a trailer battery feed wire which is active whenever the ignition is on.

 

BeastRider:

Yup, I have the towing package. Thanks for the detailed info...

I haven't looked yet, but I figure I'll be splicing the wires, right? If so, any special considerations to keep this waterproof and a neater/tigher as an install?

Thanks for the help!!

 

mjsii,
I installed a set of fog lights (with relay, etc) on my SCrew. Here's a link to the gallery with the photos. Probably similar to the white knight setup.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...TOKEN=39701332
Pretty easy with the towing package. You can splice into the wires using the blue 3M tap connectors (14/16 ga) from the auto parts store. May need to get a different one for the hot (positive) lead on the towing package (mine was 12 ga). Tie the coil pickup on the relay into the reverse lead on the trailer harness. Tie the hot lead in to the 12V power for the lights. Ground as directed. Wrapped good with Scotch 33 electrical tape. Put the relay box up high next to the bed. Look around a little and you can find some good places to tuck it away. Live in Houston, haven't had any problems with water. Did the same setup on my last truck. Worked without any problems for 8 years.
Good Luck!

 

I've used the same blue splice kits as Strongwind. Their advantage is that they are easy, quick and inexpensive. Although they _can_ last a long time, they are subject to corrosion and mechanical failure.

I've gotten pretty **** about these things, so I solder everything together. With work you can extract the wire bundle from the plastic cover, select the wire you want, and either cut it or strip it to add in the wire you want. After soldering, use a good shrink wrap.

I reckon that I would add that if you are reasonably skilled in doing this stuff then I'd go ahead and solder and shrink wrap. OTOH, if this is brand new for you, working on a wire bundle under a truck is not the easiest place to learn a new skill... go with the splice kit.

 

Hadn't even thought of soldering the connections... I wonder where my head was!

Well, now I'll think about the connectors or solder until Friday... and then start out on Saturday morning.

I'll try to take some pictures; no promises....

Thanks again!

 

Just picked up a HC backup kit #517 last night. I plan to use a relay and fuse for the power supply. I also planned on useing the stock backup lights to turn them on AND/OR (a switch from the cab. This is done with a diode inline with backup signal and on switch going to the relay. This way both the ON switch and the backup signal could be turning the relay on at once with out a problem. Since the relay swithing lines are fused at 3A, I used two 1N5817 diodes. They are rated at 20V continious reverse voltage, and I got a bunch free from work. With this mod the back up lights go on when you are in reverse, or you can switch them on anytime you want without actually being in reverse.

 

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Saggitarius (I'm one too),


The factory reverse lamps are set-up as common ground. There is NO PROBLEM with having the "cab switch" and the "backup signal" on at the same time.

No diodes required, but I do recommend one more fuse.


Here's how I did mine:

Ground one side of your relay COIL, connect the other side of the COIL to the switched +12v side of EITHER factory reverse lamp. I'm talking about pins 85 & 85 of those standard automotive style relays.
(Now the relay contacts will close when the factory reverse lamps come on. (BTW: The factory fuse can handle the small amount of additional current the relay requires to operate)

Now connect one of the relay contacts to your +12v source (using the appropriate size FUSE for the lights you are using) and the other relay contact to either side of your auxillary backup lamp(s). (Pins 30 & 87)

Connect the remaining side of the auxillary lamp(s) to ground.

That takes care of the auxillary lamps switching on with the factory lamps (i.e. backup signal).


Now...
...connect one side of your "cab switch" to +12v (with a about a 10A fuse) and the other side of the switch to the same place you tapped the relay COIL into one of the factory reverse lamp wires.

Now all lamps will illuminate with either your "cab switch" or the backup signal.


Great mod, Good luck...XLT_D

_

 

XceLenT,...Yes, that will work. I was only looking for some extra circiut protection. The signal/switch fuses should be placed as close to the power source as possible and the diodes as close to the relay as possible. In case of one signal signal line is shorted (depending on location) after the fuse, the diode(s) would protect the other signal line to maintain backup light function with the other line.

My lights each are 55W, there for about 9.16A total at 12V. Was planning on at least a 15A fuse, and a 3A on each signal line as recommended by the mfg.

 

So... I learned this weekend that the White Night Backup Light system for trailer hitches doesn't perform quite as advertised. Basically, the mount is blocked by part of the hitch (the same hitch it was claimed to fit over), AND hits the wiring harness (for trailers). The good news is that I didn't get too far before I learned this... but I am totally disappointed.

But there is an upside... all the great posts here with other suggestions! Thanks for the great ideas...

Now I just need to settle on a set of lights, figure out a mount point and wire them in.

 

Glad to know about the lights... nothing like the direct experience of others to cut through the marketing fog. Thanks.

 

I looked at the Whiteknight unit, it would be the easiest set up. But with shipping, cost almost $100, and if the housing hit something, the whole thing would be trashed.

HC Hilites backup kit #517 was only $60.00, and included all the wire harnesses, fuses, connectors and the relay. The light housing, bezel, reflector, lens are all replaceable. If you want to install a cab switch also, you would need to get a switch, extra wire and inline fuse.

 

You know... before I bought the lights, I hadn't thought about the fact that they could be easily broken! Live and learn, I guess. And someone, somewhere, will want them, I hope.

Anyway... where did you order the KC back-up lights from? The KC website wants $100 -- which is obviously more than the $60 you paid. And I would prefer to do business with a site that someone on the board has already used.

Thanks in advance!

 

YEs, I couldn't understand the price difference either. I purchased the HC #517 kit at my local truck shop, Cap Connection, same place I purchased my cap, bedliner, nerf bars, and mud flaps.

The picture on the #517 box didn't show all the wire harnesses and the relay that the KC web site showed. I opened the box to make sure everything was there for the $60 price. I showed my wife the price difference and what a good deal it was...so convinced her we had to get them, hehehehe.

It does say that the lights were not ment to be 100%waterproof. When backing a boat trailer into the water, they should not be submerged.

 

Sounds like you got a great deal. Now I need to start looking around, too...