ALL driver's door switches stop working when door is open
 

I just started having a problem with all of the switches on the driver's door - windows, door lock. When the door is open more than 1/3 of the way, none of the switches work. The obnoxious key-in-ignition-and-door-open dinger stops working too. I suspect that Ford decided to isolate the ground connection to the switches instead of using the frame, and the ground wire has failed, either a stretched wire, or a bad connection. Wondered if anyone else had seen this problem. Not sure if it's inside the door, or in the kickpanel. Neither option seems very appealing.

It's a 2005 XLT with 77,000 miles. Seems a little early for this type of issue.

Thanks in advance.

Ford actually decided to use ground wires vs. an unreliable door hing as ground ( those don't work for very long, or after the door hinged is greased with something that acts as an insulator ).

Here is a thread on the topic :
https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...door-wire.html

BTW : Seems a bit early to have electrical issues ?
When is it acceptable or the norm ?

It's a 2005, so it's only 5 years old. Wires should last a heck of a lot longer than that, IMO. My 28 year-old sports car has wiring issues, that seems a little more acceptable than this. When do you think wiring should go bad? What if it were something important, like the air-bag control wiring? Hopefully that still works, as I'm not sure how long before I need it, and it's pretty hard to test...

Thanks for the info.

My thought on when it is acceptable to have wiring issues, never.

That is part of the reason that stranded wire is used, so all the strands are not cut, obviously someone might have screwed up making the harness, and it had a problem after repetitive bending motion. That is still not acceptable.

My old 2001 F-150 Screw dad has for a work truck, and does not have issues like this.
My old 95 Ram my friend has, and it does not have wiring issues ( and in my stupider younger days, I abused the factory harness with upgraded 85/65 W bulbs in the headlamps, I think they are still in there ) like this.

My '02 Kawi and My 95 GL1500 don't have issues like this. Of course my 2006 does not have issues like this either. See where I am going, it is not acceptable to have issues with modern 105*C auto wiring.

BTW : Your SRS, it tests itself every time you turn the truck on. Look at the dash, you will see the SRS indicator illuminate, and then go out. This means the tests completed successfully. If they don't pass, the SRS would illuminate, and then flash a code. The LFC will give an indicator to what is wrong.

The ground wire was broken as illustrated in the link you sent. It was painfully obvious why it broke... The wire was coarse strand, not fine strand. Coarse strand is cheaper, but doesn't hold up as well when flexed repeatedly.

I tried to solder it, burned my finger, got mad, and just crimped in a butt splice. Probably won't last more than a couple years.

I have absolutely no doubt that the frame ground through the hinges is *much* more reliable. It may build up some resistance, but would never fail completely, at least until the door falls off.

Sky,
I am having the same trouble in my 05, any chance you still have that link?
Its an 05 XLT reg cab with 81000 miles.

Thanks