Interior lights, power windows, and Radio dont work.
 

Long story short while working on my truck I shorted out a wire to the dome light and now my Interior lights, power windows, and Radio dont work. I checked fuse 24 (Battery saver power for demand lamps) and tested good with an Ohm meter. Im going to stop by on the way home and buy a new one and replace anyways.

However for kicks Id thought Id ask if there could be any other fuses that could be causes all 3 of these issue that Im over looking? I read somewhere about a fuse/relay 304? (Battery Discharge Protection Relay) but dont see it in my manual. Im thinking theres another relay that runs them all but not sure which one it could be by looking off the owners manual.


Ive pretty much did the same thing this guy below did in this thread because he had the same 3 things not working also and pretty much short out his dome light as well. Ive sent him an e-mail to see how he fixed his truck but no response yet.


https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...light-xlt.html

Id apperciate any help on the matter!
Thanks! :bows:

These are not all on the same fuse.

Fuse #24 feeds the battery saver relay ( relay 304 ) which powers the interior lamps. The coil is controlled by the instrument cluster.

The Power Windows and radio are on the accessory delay relay ( relay #02 ) :
output of the accessory delay relay to the radio is Fuse #22 and the output of the accessory delay relay to the power windows is fuse #401. The other side of the normally open contacts on the accessory delay relay is always hot, and the coil on this relay is controlled by the instrument cluster.

If you want to bypass the relay, to see if the items work, pull the relay, and jumper the normally open contacts as shown in the drawing below

https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...-iso-relay.jpg

https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...-iso-relay.jpg

Have you done anything with the instrument cluster ( this is the item in common with both relays ). This includes removal or replacement for any reason ( overlay, LED bulb swap, etc ).

Yes I know thats whats so odd how could it of blown 3 differant fuses? Ive checked fuse 24, 7, and few others anything that seemed related to all 3 power windows, lights, radio ect.

Im lost here are you saying that fuse 24 is the samething as relay 304? Im not sure what you mean when you say which powers the interior lamps. The coil is controlled by the instrument cluster.

What do you mean here relay 2? Are you talking about the 02 relay mounted under the hood of the truck?

On fuse 22 my door locks work tho. On "401" I used a Ohm meter and tested good.

Im not sure I understand all this and what your asking me to test or what. Sorry! : (
Im pretty confused right now and a truck in the garage with crap laying everywhere and not sure what to look for!


How this all started I took the black/blue wire thats ran under the driverside rail and pretty sure its tied into the dome light and grounded it by mistake. When I did the lights went out and as I started testing other stuff noticed the power windows and radio not working.

No, I am saying the fuse associated with relay relay is fuse #24. Fuse and relay are 2 different things. Relay controls the on/off of power to an item, fuse protects against overload / short circuit to ground.

Relay 02 in the cab fuse panel.

Fuse #22 is not for the power door locks, the line reads:
Delayed accessory power for audio, power door lock switch and moonroof switch illumination.
Your power door locks are fuse # 107 not fuse #22. Fuse #22 is illumination feed for the switches.

Use a meter to test for power on both sides of the fuse, don't remove and ohm them, won't prove anything by using an ohm meter with the fuse out of the holder.

Did you have the Black w/ Light blue stripe wire that is circuit #53 or the Black w/ Light Blue stripe wire that is circuit # 875 ?

Got it SSCULLY thanks for your help! I found this link:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/35...ion-401-a.html

It was FUSE 21 (Cluster Keep alive power) that one fuse blown took out my interior lights, power windows, Radio, Speed and Tach!!

Now back to working on the Tow Mirrors.

Thread resurection!
I found this very helpful. Thanks for the diagrams.

I'm hoping to delve a little further into this.
My truck did the same thing when I was trying to change the dome light.
The truck is a 2005 Lariet supercrew 2wd.
The truck was running with A/C, radio, and headlights on. As i tried to twist the dome light bulb into position, I heard a snap and the interior dome lights went out. So did the A/C clutch, raido, all gauges (but not the back-lighting),power windows/moonroof, and the driver airbag light is blinking.

At this point I've checked examined all fuses, and ohm tested them.
I learned from this thread (again, thanks SSCULLY) how to properly test for power to the fuses by leaving the fuse in it's holder.
I need to do this yet.
However, I have determined that Relay R02 isn't getting power to the socket.
By swapping in other known good relays, and using the original R02 relay in another relay socket -- it powers up.

I'm a little afraid to try bridging 30 & 87 for fear I might cause a short.

:surrender:

I went ahead and jumped the relay socket as described above, and the power returned to the windows, radio only.
gauges, dome lights, and ac clutch still dead. And the blinking airbag light.
I checked fuse 24 and it shows 14 volts going thru it, so the breakdown is somewhere else, right?
I also inspected the front dome light. Was Not impressed at all with the design. Those chinsy little plastic clips that hold the circuitry have failed and allow contact. That's how I inadvertently caused the problem in the first place when wiggling the bulb holder. The stock bulbs run too hot as well, and have melted the holes to where you can't get the bulb out. It's a problem that seems very likely to occur. Just a matter of when.

About relay 304, which one is that? I don't seem to have that one..

Did you test Fuse #21 ?

This is the VBATT input on the cluster.

By jumping the relay, that shows the lighting circuit is OK, but it is controlled by the instrument panel.
- Main headlamp switch dome light it a switch to the instrument cluser.
- Door lighting is controlled by the instrument cluster.

While you are at it check fuses :
F21
F1
F15
F27
F18

F24 - This is the output of the battery saver relay direct to front & rear interior lamps to turn them on individually.

If you can get the LFC ( Light Flash Code ) from the cluster, that might help with ID'ing what is going on.
- It will be a 2 digit flash EG: 2 flashes pause 3 flashes pause 2 flashes pause 3 flashes. This would be LFC code 23. Make sure you get the starting flash count correct ( EG: don't read this as LFC 32 ).

It was fuse 21.
As soon as I replaced that, all gauges, a/c, etc came back to life.
Then I removed the jumper in Relay socket R02, and replaced it with the original relay, everything works!

As for the LFC's, the driver airbag symbol (and the passenger one too), both prove out ok. They stay on solid for about 3 seconds then go off and stay off.

I want to thank you SSCULLY for your concise help. This thread may have saved me a few hundred dollars. Harrold Ford was going to start me at $135 diagnostic fee and he was shaky about guaranteeing the diagnostic.

EDIT:
I don't know if this is related, but I have one DTC that came back after being cleared. p1000 - Monitor test incomplete.
I'm going to see if this clears itself eventually???

That will clear itself after all monitored sensors achieve readiness. That can take time, certain drive cycle parameters must be met.

Thanks glc, that's kinda what I thought might need to happen.