No, the MFS switches ( changes the voltage between the 2 fuses for the low beams and the high beam fuse ) the voltage from the low beams to the high beams, the fog lamp relay is the only thing that has the ground derived from something, and this is to get it to shut off when the high beams are on, to turn them on is still a switch of voltage to the relay coil.

Here is the EVTM page on the headlamps so you stop with the how you "think" it works ( note no low beam relays ). This is what I have been telling you, and you keep ignoring.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...-headlamps.jpg

When I look at that diagram it looks like if I bridge wire 6 and 7 that would keep the lows on regardless of the MFS position.

9 looks like it activates the high beam relay. 8 looks like the always on power feed. no grounds since its a switch and not a relay.

I don't know what ftp means. but I'm pretty sure that 6 is what the lows are fed from and that 7 goes to the headlight switch and it's that connection that is being broken.

I'm not trying to annoy you and I can only "think" of how it works because I don't know how it works.

FTP is probably flash-to-pass.

EDIT: Not sure how hard it is to open up the MFS and modify, but if you somehow break the contact that the arrow is pointing at, that would take care of your lows coming on when you flash-to-pass (pulling lever back). Then, just do the relay setup that SSCULLY posted in the first page?

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...tschematic.jpg

If you were to bridge 6 and 7, it seems you would lose your lows and high beams when you switched to high beams (lever forward).

the more I sit and stare at that diagram and trace lines. It looks like I may be able to just cut wires 6 and 7 off the multi and put them together. That should actually be all that's needed. The only other switch at that point is the headlight switch. It looks like 6 is actual wire that controls the low beams. But look over at wire 9 and I see some wierd almost relay like stuff happening.

just saw your note at the bottom. Not sure I see what you do. Why are you thinking I would lose the lows with the switch forward. I am thinking that the mfs would just have no affect at all on the lows.

The other thing is where is the fog relay in that diagram. I'm assuming it's at junction S218 and that relay is what powers the high beam indicator? I just went in my truck and I can definetally here a relay click when I turn on my lights. That's with the fogs off, and hid relay removed. Haven't pinned where it's coming from yet but that distinct relay click is there.

The 6 wire is what is "feeding" the right switch in the MFS switch. The 8 wire is "feeding" the left switch.

In HI, both switches go to "HI".
Left switch doesn't complete a circuit, since the left HI is not connected to anything. The right switch goes to HI. Since the 6 wire is no longer connected, it can not feed the HI.

In LO, both switches go to "LOW".
The left switch "points" straight down, connect to the LOW setting. Since it's not connected to anything, the circuit is not complete. The right switch is essentially connecting the 6 and 7 wire. Here bridging the wires would not affect anything.

In the FTP, the 8 wire connects with the FTP switch, which is also connected to the HI beam. The right switch would connect to FTP, which would be like connecting the low beam. If you bridge 6 and 7, it would achieve what you want with no lows when headlights are off.

I guess the easiest thing to do is to leave all the factory wiring alone and just add a switch that turns the lows on and off. Probably use a keyed ignition wire so the truck has to be running to turn em on.

What do you think about tapping into wire 7 to turn on the low relay. Leaving all wiring in tact and not using the H13 plug at all. So wire 7 between the mfs and switch would be what turns them on.

It looks like wire 1 at the head switch gets +12 regardless of high/low but it doesn't look to me like FTP puts 12V there. Even if I use pin 1 on the head switch looks like I could even use the auto lamp feature and would remaing on in both hi/lo and off in FTP. I think I should really brake out the dmm and test some stuff. Maybe put some halogens in the projectors and try things out.

I would like my lows and Highs to come on at the same time as noted above. However, I am not sure how to connect the Right Low wire(dark Green w/ Orange Stripe wire) to CJB Fuse 26 and the Right High and Left High (light Green w. Black Stripe) to CJB Fuse 16. Do I bend, connect and ground the pins from the relays or just connect the wire to the relay then stick the relay back in? Thanks for any info. Best regards...

The factory wiring is in green, and that drawing with those fuse #s are for the 97-03 MY.
It was being used as an example for the relay setup to modify a 04-08 MY truck

The same applies ( the fuses are different numbers ) for the 04-08 MY, just need to add the relays to the same color wires as shown above ( at one of the headlamp connectors ).

Ok, that should be easy enough. Thanks for the reply and info!