Existing fog light wiring
#1
03-08-2009, 06:59 PM
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Existing fog light wiring
I have an XL model 2004 heritage, and I noticed that I have fog light harnesses, relay, and fuse, but not the lights or switch.
I want to add some fogs and was thinking it would be cool if I could use the wiring that is already in the truck.
I want to add a fog light switch below the existing headlight switch, but want to be able to turn the fogs on independently of the other lights.
I'm not really interesting in getting a factory switch with fogs and grinding the ramp down.
Here is the question, is there a fog lights wire behind the existing headlight switch I can tap to go to my new switch?
I want to add some fogs and was thinking it would be cool if I could use the wiring that is already in the truck.
I want to add a fog light switch below the existing headlight switch, but want to be able to turn the fogs on independently of the other lights.
I'm not really interesting in getting a factory switch with fogs and grinding the ramp down.
Here is the question, is there a fog lights wire behind the existing headlight switch I can tap to go to my new switch?
#2
03-08-2009, 10:18 PM
Few tests to make sure everything is OK, as I have seen the adding fog lamps to the factory harness go both ways.
1. Install a fuse in the Battery Junction box ( aka BJB , Engine compartment fuse panel ) fuse # 9. Use a 15 A fuse.
2. Remove the fog lamp relay ( if installed ) and jumper the normally open contacts with a wire. The male spade terminal ends ( normal size ) are a bit large. You can file down the width of normal ends, to make them fit into the relay socket. The pins you want to jumper have the red line in the diagram below ( that is the view looking into the relay socket ).
This test should put power to the fog lamp connectors. This is the tan w/ orange stripe wire. The other pin should have a black wire, that is ground.
Once you have verified the fog lamp connectors to the fog lamp relay, next is to verify the wire that operates the fog lamp relay.
On the connector for the main headlamp switch, you are looking for a yellow wire. The is the power to the fog lamp relay coil. The other pin should have ground on it ( pin # 2, shown in the diagram above ).
If you jumper the yellow wire to the brown wire ( parking lamps ) on the main headlamp switch connector, you can use 2 scotch locks, and a short piece of wire.
Turn on your parking lamps, the socket for the fog lamp relay should have +12 V on pin #1, using Pin #2 as the ground for the meter probe.
-> This is where some of the factory fog additions fall apart, so double check your work, and make sure that you have a good ground and power at the socket.
If you verify that the power to the fog lamp relay is good, un hood the jumper wire, and use the brown for the power to the additional switch, and the yellow as the switch leg to the fog lamp relay. Add your ground wire to the switch, if it is an illuminated switch. Watch the order of the terminals on the switch if it is illuminated, as wiring it backwards will have the illumination on all the time, or mis-wiring it will blow a fuse.
If you verified both above, and install the switch correctly, add in the half size Ford relay ( part number above, can be crossed referenced at an Autozone or Napa ), and you are all set for adding the factory fog lamps that only power on with the switch, when the parking lamps are on.
This is the diagram for the fog lamp modification, but shows the wiring for the fog lamps. Youare installing your own switch between the brown and yellow wires.
Let us know what happens.
1. Install a fuse in the Battery Junction box ( aka BJB , Engine compartment fuse panel ) fuse # 9. Use a 15 A fuse.
2. Remove the fog lamp relay ( if installed ) and jumper the normally open contacts with a wire. The male spade terminal ends ( normal size ) are a bit large. You can file down the width of normal ends, to make them fit into the relay socket. The pins you want to jumper have the red line in the diagram below ( that is the view looking into the relay socket ).
This test should put power to the fog lamp connectors. This is the tan w/ orange stripe wire. The other pin should have a black wire, that is ground.
Once you have verified the fog lamp connectors to the fog lamp relay, next is to verify the wire that operates the fog lamp relay.
On the connector for the main headlamp switch, you are looking for a yellow wire. The is the power to the fog lamp relay coil. The other pin should have ground on it ( pin # 2, shown in the diagram above ).
If you jumper the yellow wire to the brown wire ( parking lamps ) on the main headlamp switch connector, you can use 2 scotch locks, and a short piece of wire.
Turn on your parking lamps, the socket for the fog lamp relay should have +12 V on pin #1, using Pin #2 as the ground for the meter probe.
-> This is where some of the factory fog additions fall apart, so double check your work, and make sure that you have a good ground and power at the socket.
If you verify that the power to the fog lamp relay is good, un hood the jumper wire, and use the brown for the power to the additional switch, and the yellow as the switch leg to the fog lamp relay. Add your ground wire to the switch, if it is an illuminated switch. Watch the order of the terminals on the switch if it is illuminated, as wiring it backwards will have the illumination on all the time, or mis-wiring it will blow a fuse.
If you verified both above, and install the switch correctly, add in the half size Ford relay ( part number above, can be crossed referenced at an Autozone or Napa ), and you are all set for adding the factory fog lamps that only power on with the switch, when the parking lamps are on.
This is the diagram for the fog lamp modification, but shows the wiring for the fog lamps. Youare installing your own switch between the brown and yellow wires.
Let us know what happens.
#3
03-09-2009, 07:52 AM
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#4
03-09-2009, 08:51 AM
OK, change the part above where the brown ( parking lamps ) wire is used as the power to the switch, to an add-a-fuse in the fuse slot for the radio.
This will have it so only with the key in the run or accy position the lights will work.
I have seem members post where this is available at Walmart. Napas by me stopped carrying these, and went to a different type, that can deform the fue slot.
This will have it so only with the key in the run or accy position the lights will work.
I have seem members post where this is available at Walmart. Napas by me stopped carrying these, and went to a different type, that can deform the fue slot.
#5
03-15-2009, 09:17 AM
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#6
03-16-2009, 12:06 AM
The add a fuse installed in the radio power ( not instrument illumination ) fuse slot is so the switch to the fog lamp relay can only be on with the key in the accy or run position.
If you do not have the add a fuse and something were to happen to the circuit that you are switching the coil on the relay with, at the least the radio fuse would blow, at most you could cause a problem with the factory wiring.
Best to keep them isolated with the add a fuse, even though the load is very small.
If you do not have the add a fuse and something were to happen to the circuit that you are switching the coil on the relay with, at the least the radio fuse would blow, at most you could cause a problem with the factory wiring.
Best to keep them isolated with the add a fuse, even though the load is very small.