Broken retension clip on coil pack connector
 

I replaced 3 coil packs yesterday and, in my haste, broke one of the retaining clips that securely holds each connector to the pack. Fortunately for me it was on the #1 cylinder so it's the easiest to get to and I was able to use electrical tape to hold it firmly in place. I'd like to replace the plug if possible later on, but if replacing the plug means replacing the entire harness then I'll just replace the tape from time to time. Has anyone else replaced one of these plugs? If so, can one of those plugs easily be replaced, even if it involves cutting the wires and soldering the new one on? I figure that I could get one from a junkyard for cheap, but if it's not worth the effort then I'll just stick to the tape.

Thanks,
Michael

well, good news, they are available to replace.... ford p/n: 3U2Z14S411SLA. bad news, they arent too cheap... runs 20.61 through www.directfordparts.com

it would be easy enough to change though, just cut the existing leads and solder a new on it place.

i wonder though, could you use a small zip tie to hold it in better than tape? that might even be the easiest for you.

I wish that there were pictures on that page. I went to Motorcraft.com to see if I could find that part and a picture and was able to locate the following part... WPT759 which seems to be the one that I need. You can see their connectors here... http://www.motorcraft.com/pdf/Pigtai...onKit_1of2.pdf. It's $23 on NewFordParts.com. A bit pricey for such a simple piece. I may stick to the tape for a bit. I think that I can get a small zip tie in there so that it won't put too much stress on the wires leading into the connector.

Thanks for the help.

Well, my .02 is this. The tape has been working great for me for the past year.

Solution?
 

Hey man, i am having the same exact problem, except FOUR are broken! what did you end up doing to fix this?
Thanks!

-Tone

not sure what he did but here is what I'm doing

http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/1091

so long as you have the correct crimp tool you are fine other wise order the pigtail!

2001 f150 5.4
 

How exactly do you replace those? I was originally going to junkyard it and clip some off with the wires and reconnect them, but that sounds like so many things can go wrong.. thanks!!!

I'm not sure if they are "pull to seat" or "push to seat". Big difference there. the "pull to seat" means you MUST cut your wire TERMINAL OFF! then insert wires thru the new connector and crimp on NEW TERMINALS! = PITA
"push to seat" means the wire TERMINAL is locked into the CONNECTOR HOUSING with a "tang" or "finger" ...etc which you can depress and remove the housing!!! :) simply INSERT your old wires with oem terminals into NEW CONNECTOR HOUSING until the "click"... all done.
As stated.. I'm not sure which these are ... yet. I'm not used to FORD stuff but have made MANY MANY different brands of terminals in my yrs as a Tool & Die maker.

I just had the issue on my 04 F150. It was throwing a code for the #2 coil, long story short the connector was worn out/broken. I went down to Auto Zone and got this part http://www.autozone.com/electrical-a...97004_0_18342/
Just needed to clip off the old piece, matched up the two wires and soldered it together. It's back to running like new.

update... these are a PUSH to SEAT terminal!!!! yay

This means you can cut a few off at the junk yard and reinstall the "connector" without ever cutting your wires... :) I've got pics... just gotta find them

I've got several broken on my CV; they stay in-place for hundreds of thousands of miles with no tape or zip-ties, and the car runs fine until a coil burns out. The connector catch is NOT critical.

FWIW...

I broke the connector on the #7 coil wire...

I tried Zip Tie, wrap with Electrical tape...didn't really hold...

Then a neighbor suggested wrapping the coil connector (coil side) with electrical tape, then pushing the plug on...one wrap on the coil, and the plug pushed on no problem...pretty tight also... Its been on a few months no problems...I would like to eventually replace the plug...

So confirm its ok to not have them securely connected to the ignition coil? Lets just say I broke three of them, because I was not gentle enough removing the connector switches. I also noticed all of my plugs were horribly corroded and two were cracked and they all had a gap near.040 not good should be around .030. Eventually i can go to a junk yard and cut the connector and re clip correct.

go to junk yard and buy them of a blown engine. all yards have bad engines to sell parts off of.

Thank you revbiker
 

I tried all my junk yards no one had my vehicle I bought replacements at rock auto 17.00 not bad ford wanted close to 40.00 a piece. Hopefully I can disconnect without rewiring. I learned my lesson I tend to break things often I use way too much strength and everything breaks. Hard lesson learned next time it will be an easy job with spark plug replacement. So everyone knows pull the red tab out of the connector then push down on the middle small grey piece it will come right out don't use tools or too much pressure you will break the connector like I did. Then twist the coil and pull up it will come right out after you twist it don't use any tools or to much pressure it will come right out or you will break it like me. Thanks for all the nice updates I love this forum.