First post here, sorry if this is a repeat question with a well known answer. I tried a search but didn't come up with anything specific to code 14. I have a 2002 F-150 that is flashing theft code 14 and will not start. This happened while it was sitting in the driveway after starting a couple of days before. I have checked out a few things like #2 and #18 fuses under the hood. Disconnected the battery cable to try and get it to reset. Pulled fuse #30 under the dash to try to get it to reset. Tried the key reset in the door lock by turning one way and holding for 60 seconds and then turning the other way for 60 seconds. None of that has worked. I have seen on google searches that it may be a key issue that requires a reset with two keys or it could be a bad crankshaft position sensor. Please let me know what to try next or if it is a tow it to a dealer issue to get the PAT changed out or reprogramed. It has been a very dependable truck and that has never had any issues until now.

 

None of those gimmicks you find online are going to work except by sheer coincidence. Similarly, reprogramming the same keys into the same system will not resolve any known issues. If any re-programming should be needed due to component replacement, it can be done DIY with Forscan (Windows version w/free extended license) and an appropriate OBDII interface. You must have two unique keys for this, hardware store clones and their ancestor only count as one.

Start at the top: What is the state of the odometer display and the check engine light when the ignition key is turned from OFF to RU (not START)?

 

Thanks, for the reply. You have confirmed some of my conclusions. The vehicle is at my mothers house so I don't have the answers to your questions. I will look the next time I'm there and let you know.

 

No problem.

If the odometer reads all dashes, that means the PCM and the cluster did not power up together and PATS automatically fails. The check engine light prove-out is another indicator that the PCM is powered up. If either of these checks fail, swap the PCM Power Relay.

Could be interference. Make sure there are no extra keys or smart devices on the key chain or in the truck near the ignition switch. Cheap cell chargers are one of the worst offenders.

Put the cluster into dealer test mode and pull DTCs from it if no actual scan tool (or equal) isn't available. The DTCs are a better indicator of the system's fault than are the lamp flash codes which are not documented in Ford's North American service info.

 

projectSH089, here is what I found. after putting the display in the Dealer Test Mode as you suggested the only code that came up was 9602 -failure to read key code. I did not have any problem with the odometer display or the check engine light. Thanks for the help.

This led me to take the key to the locksmith and see if the chip in the key was bad. The locksmith confirmed the key chip was not transmitting even though it was a Ford key just like the original key that came with the truck. I asked the locksmith if he would come out to the truck and make two key and program them. The two locksmiths attempted to program the keys working for about 2 hours without any success. A more experienced locksmith showed up and repeated their attempt with a more advanced scanner/reader and only got one key to program. He decided to remove the steering column cover to see if there was something wrong with the PATS transceiver antenna. When he opened the top cover he found a chip that had be fastened to the steering column. He said that this type of chip has a battery and eventually goes bad but it was still sending enough of a signal to interfere with programing the new keys. He removed the chip and was then able to program the second key satisfy the antitheft system. He said the Ford key that they tested for a chip did not have a chip and was just a $2 key cut to work with the chip that had been installed under the steering column cover. Anyway, long day for all of us. After checking with my sister she confirmed that her son-in-law had said that when he lost the key earlier he had configured the truck so it would no longer need a key with a chip. She did not understand enough to question how or why he did what he did.

The learning from all of this is don't by a cheap chip off of the internet and put it under the steering column. The locksmith said that if you want to do this use a chipped key and mount the entire key so it with satisfy the PATS transceiver and then you can use the cheap $2 keys and won't have to worry about the battery on the chip running down or failing. The locksmith charged me $150 for two chipped keys and and valet key. I thought that was a deal since they worked on it for 3 hours.

 

Kudos to the guys who fixed it for only $150!

You ran head-on into one of the hacks to get around buying new chipped keys. Yours was made worse by the use of a cloned key's guts that required a battery to maintain the clone's identity and the battery eventually ran low.

Good luck with it going forward.