2009's are made differently.... anyone know how to fix or where the switch is now?

 

lees99f150 IS THE MAN.....
THANXXXXXXXXX

This picture is for you my friend,

I love you lol. In a non-gay way of course. lmfao...
I love this forum...

 

Does this/replacing said relay work for puddle lights too? Girlfriends 05 explorer puddle lights wont come on as well as the door ajar light and dome light issues

 

I just had to say, the rest of this guys post was quite fullfilling. I did not quote all of it but there was a lot of usefull information. Except this quote LMAO

Ok Please So let me understand, The LUBE that the Ford factory uses is so much better than the solutions we are using, and it lasts ten years. Now please ask yourself this, if the factory lube was so good, why are we all on here spraying wd40 in there? It works and does not cost $300.00.

Yea Called Ford on mine today in Conway SC, they acted as if they never heard of such a thing and said if I bring it in they will put it on the machine for 100 bucks. I said no Just give me the part number for the relay switch to fix it. He said well I dont know if it is the relay switch. I said then go down the manual and give me all the part numbers for all the relay switches under the dash, Driver and passenger sides, and Ill get it myself. He said you bring it in and Ill put it on the machine for 100 bucks and it will tell me the part number there. Let me just say what came outa my mouth next was not a pleasing situation, and tomorrow I will bet the truck itself they will get me that part number for free. Why because I will go to that dealership early in the AM and walk up to every new potential client of theirs and give them some of the forum informations printed out. I will edit it to leave only the many complaints and problems, so they can see how long and how many times its happened and let them see how frustrating FORD and the situation is. I will tell them I am here to get mine fixed and ford is trying to charge me 100 bucks to find a problem that has existed for over 10 years now, then will want to charge another 300 to fix it.

If we as society do not take back the consumers rights, the corporations will walk all over us, Have we learned nothing about our past and how loud our voices can be heard if we all work together. We allow so many companies to take advantage of us, we are handing these people $40,000 dollars of our money. Money we worked hard for, money we sweat to make (well, some of us sweat LOL), Don't you think that should at least get us a little respect. A ten year problem is no longer a problem, It's a scam!

 

In relation to the door latch in the door, where is the light switch located? What direction should I aim the WD-40 nozzle to improve my chances of hitting the switch? Thanks Forum

 

Just started having this issue last week when the temperature dipped to 20. I'm going to have them replace the switch on thursday and the dealership said over the phone that they'd replace the sensor with no hassle. It's a 2010 so under warranty still but not a lot of hassle. I also had to have them replace a latch on the front passenger because the plastic casing had delaminated from the housing and was preventing it from dropping out of the way when you close the door. Is Ford this bad at assembling doors? Now my seat heater light is going off and I can hear the fan shut off with the light. Wtf? I've had jap cars worth much less than this truck and never had these bugs. I don't mind bugs, but the electrical stuff worries me. Kindof like a gun that jambs a lot at first and then settles down after 1000 rounds... You can never really trust it.

 

Yes well I'm trying this tomorrow, as soon as the temp drops, my interior chime starts going off when the key is out and lights.... very anoying and hard on the ol battery!! thx

 

did you try replacing the relay in the fuse box sometimes they stick

 

hey i got a new problem to top my battery light staying on all the time now the door ajar and the inside light and buzzer goes off all the time unless i take my key out or take battery cable off i sure hope someone can help me out

 

ok now people dont start trying to act like a school teacher or start crying cause i cant type and dont use quotation marks BUT thanks f150sc04 i took w d forty and sprayed my hindges my problem is solved

 

I really appreciate the info baja offroad i sprayed it yesterday and it works just fine now the light goes off and the chimmer stops as well

 

It works....It really really works!!!!!! I've had this problem forever, just reached my breaking point and found the easiest solution!!! WD-40

 

I took mine to the dealer and they replaced something in the smart box in the passenger kick panel up front. Didn't work. Now they all think that my original diagnosis (replace the rear left door latch) was correct and that's absolutely been the case all along. Retarded right? I told them that when it goes off I can get out, open and shut the door and it goes off. Sounds like a problem in the door right? Apparently they didn't have a trouble coming from the door when they tested it, in a warm garage, in perfect conditions. Anyway, I have to take it back now and I"m annoyed as F.

 

I have had the annoying issue of the dome light staying on, I really am at wits end and need someone to help me with this solve.
I initially sprayed the door swicth latches with a can of wd40, the replaced both the "Battery saver/interior lamp relay and Generic Electronic Module (GEM) relay but still the problem seems to persist.
Next I have removed both latch mechanisms and unplugged door switch wiring. Used tester to test dead operation of both door switches and they seem to work fine. The circuit is closed when latch is in "door open" position and then both switches open circuit when the door switch is in "door closed" position, therefore opening the circuit which you think would kill power to the lights in question.
Could it be that when the door latches are in the doors that they may act differently than when I tested them outside of the doors, therefore needing to replace them, or that I may have a wiring short somewhere else in the circuit?
i really need some help on this one. I have tried all of the previous solutions to no avail and need to know if there is any other option before I send her to the stealership.
Please give me any other wiring fix's that you may know.
Thanks

 

Check the pillar post wires, they found a loose wire in the pillar post where the wire passes from door to body. Try wiggling the wires here and see what happens. The smartbox may be the problem if tyat doesnt work.