Question Mike
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From: Mesa, AZ USA
Question Mike
Hi Mike,
Finally, I have an opportunity to get a Superchip -free- from my cousin.(woohoo) Problem is it's from a PSD application. My question is can the chip be reprogramed to use with a V10? Could you e-mail me the particulars(cost) on doing this if it's possible? My other concern is I have rather high mileage (40K on the engine, 84k on the rest of the drivetrain) Is it ever too late to add a chip? I'd hate to put extra stresses on the truck when it's closer to it's end of it's lifespan rather than when new. Thanks a bunch!
Finally, I have an opportunity to get a Superchip -free- from my cousin.(woohoo) Problem is it's from a PSD application. My question is can the chip be reprogramed to use with a V10? Could you e-mail me the particulars(cost) on doing this if it's possible? My other concern is I have rather high mileage (40K on the engine, 84k on the rest of the drivetrain) Is it ever too late to add a chip? I'd hate to put extra stresses on the truck when it's closer to it's end of it's lifespan rather than when new. Thanks a bunch!
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From: Virginia
Hi V10 Man,
Yes, we can reprogram the gold module that was used on that PSD for your V-10, the gold module is the one used for V-10's & PSD's, so that's not a problem.
No, I do not have any concerns about installing the Superchip on an engine that has 40K miles on it, or on a powertrain that has 84K miles on it, the main thing is that it's basically healthy & doesn't have any obvious mechanical problems, the engine isn't using an abnormal amount of oil, etc. The basics, in other words.
I have yet to see a powertrain that was basically healthy that couldn't take the approximately 10% power gain from the Superchip, even if the motor had as many miles as the rest of the driveline in your case, I wouldn't have a problem with that in your hands, you know what you're doing & how to take care of your vehicle properly.
About the only time we have a concern with that in a healthy powertrain is if we feel it's the family car that has 100K+ miles on it and has just been given (or sold) to their child, who is now going to try to turn that tired old family vehicle into his(or her!) first hot-rod with a chip & a filter, driving it like it's a Winston Cup car, you know what I mean.
There's nothing inherent in that kind of mileage that prevents the reasonable use of the Superchip. These motors seal so much better and have a significantly longer service life than drivelines did just 10 years ago, that a few simple bolt ons and sane driving doesn't cause us concern.
I'll look up your profile to see if your email is there, and if so, shoot you an email with the particulars on doing that for you.
Have fun!
Yes, we can reprogram the gold module that was used on that PSD for your V-10, the gold module is the one used for V-10's & PSD's, so that's not a problem.
No, I do not have any concerns about installing the Superchip on an engine that has 40K miles on it, or on a powertrain that has 84K miles on it, the main thing is that it's basically healthy & doesn't have any obvious mechanical problems, the engine isn't using an abnormal amount of oil, etc. The basics, in other words.
I have yet to see a powertrain that was basically healthy that couldn't take the approximately 10% power gain from the Superchip, even if the motor had as many miles as the rest of the driveline in your case, I wouldn't have a problem with that in your hands, you know what you're doing & how to take care of your vehicle properly.
About the only time we have a concern with that in a healthy powertrain is if we feel it's the family car that has 100K+ miles on it and has just been given (or sold) to their child, who is now going to try to turn that tired old family vehicle into his(or her!) first hot-rod with a chip & a filter, driving it like it's a Winston Cup car, you know what I mean.
There's nothing inherent in that kind of mileage that prevents the reasonable use of the Superchip. These motors seal so much better and have a significantly longer service life than drivelines did just 10 years ago, that a few simple bolt ons and sane driving doesn't cause us concern.
I'll look up your profile to see if your email is there, and if so, shoot you an email with the particulars on doing that for you.
Have fun!
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From: Mesa, AZ USA
Thanks for the E-mail Mike. Sounds like a plan. My first obsticle is getting the code. My door jam sticker is gone so it looks like I'll need to pull the computer. I know there has to be a link to a site with directions to do this. Anyone know what it is? Thanks a bunch.
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From: Virginia
Hi V10 Man,
The ECU in the Super Dutys is mounted over on the Driver's side of the cabin, below the dash and just to the right of the emergency brake pedal. It's covered by a black plastic "shield," so just remove the two 7mm bolts that retain that shield and remove it, then you can see the ECU to get it's code from the sticker on the back of the ECU. If that sticker is missing, then you'll need to pull the ECU from the vehicle to see the big sticker on top (which is the right side the way it's mounted), and all Ford ECU's in these Super Duty's are the same in that regard. Loosen the single 10mm bolt that is in the middle of the ECU's wiring harness (under the hood, under the brake master cylinder, the wiring harness that is closest to the driver-side fender that has a 10mm bolt in the middle, there will be 2 and sometimes even 3 of them, so it's the one closest to the fender on the driver's side), then you can go back in to the cabin and put your hand on the back of the ECU, and push the back of the ECU to the right, towards the gas pedal. It will POP out of it's firewall pass-thru and drop right into your hand very easily. Reinstall in reverse.
If you have any problems, please don't hesitate to give us a call & we can walk you thru that if you like, etc.
The ECU in the Super Dutys is mounted over on the Driver's side of the cabin, below the dash and just to the right of the emergency brake pedal. It's covered by a black plastic "shield," so just remove the two 7mm bolts that retain that shield and remove it, then you can see the ECU to get it's code from the sticker on the back of the ECU. If that sticker is missing, then you'll need to pull the ECU from the vehicle to see the big sticker on top (which is the right side the way it's mounted), and all Ford ECU's in these Super Duty's are the same in that regard. Loosen the single 10mm bolt that is in the middle of the ECU's wiring harness (under the hood, under the brake master cylinder, the wiring harness that is closest to the driver-side fender that has a 10mm bolt in the middle, there will be 2 and sometimes even 3 of them, so it's the one closest to the fender on the driver's side), then you can go back in to the cabin and put your hand on the back of the ECU, and push the back of the ECU to the right, towards the gas pedal. It will POP out of it's firewall pass-thru and drop right into your hand very easily. Reinstall in reverse.
If you have any problems, please don't hesitate to give us a call & we can walk you thru that if you like, etc.
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From: Mesa, AZ USA
The wife was away this weekend so I thought I'd try getting the code. 
I removed the 2 7mm screws and tried to remove the plastic case. It would only slide about 3/4". It felt stuck. Also, it felt like the CPU wanted to come out with it. I didn't want to yank too hard and break something. I thought about undoing the wire harness under the hood but fear of Murphy and his laws got the best of me. 
Is there some trick to removing the plastic case? Thanks!
I removed the 2 7mm screws and tried to remove the plastic case. It would only slide about 3/4". It felt stuck. Also, it felt like the CPU wanted to come out with it. I didn't want to yank too hard and break something. I thought about undoing the wire harness under the hood but fear of Murphy and his laws got the best of me. Is there some trick to removing the plastic case? Thanks!
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From: Virginia
Hi V10man,
Thre are a few of them that have an additional bolt at the end & at the "top" of that black plastic shroud, meaning on top on the end right where it almost meets the firewall from inside the cabin.
As far as the harness connection on the front of the ECU under the hood, that is identical on all EEV-IV & EEC-V ECU's in that it will have the single 10mm bolthead dead-center which you loosen until you can detach the harness. Then in the Super Duty, go into the cabin and put your hand on the back of the ECU and push it over to the right, towards the gas pedal, and it will POP! right out of it's pass-thru in the firewall very easily.
You may have to play with that black plastic shroud a bit after you remove the two 7mm bolts!
V10man, if you have any more problems with this give us a call, & good luck!
Thre are a few of them that have an additional bolt at the end & at the "top" of that black plastic shroud, meaning on top on the end right where it almost meets the firewall from inside the cabin.
As far as the harness connection on the front of the ECU under the hood, that is identical on all EEV-IV & EEC-V ECU's in that it will have the single 10mm bolthead dead-center which you loosen until you can detach the harness. Then in the Super Duty, go into the cabin and put your hand on the back of the ECU and push it over to the right, towards the gas pedal, and it will POP! right out of it's pass-thru in the firewall very easily.
You may have to play with that black plastic shroud a bit after you remove the two 7mm bolts!
V10man, if you have any more problems with this give us a call, & good luck!