2009 Evolution CS
2009 Evolution CS
Okay, so I have my Gryphon CS (waiting on 3 custom tunes from PHP) running on my 2009 F-150 Platinum. Just a few quick questions.
Right now I am running on Level 2 (Towing) because I see on the forums that is what everyone else is running. Why do people do that instead of run on Level 3 which is supposed to be the performance tune?
Also, when I changed the tune, I let it go to Level 2 and pushed "No" when it asked if I wanted to do custom tuning. I then later went into the menu options and changed the tire size to "35x12.5R20". I understand that it would be more accurate if I had the mm's with squish factored in, but I'll get to that later. Did I do this right, and is my truck calibrated for the larger tire size now? Or was I supposed to push "Yes" to doing custom tuning?
Also, when you change the tire size, does it only correct the speedometer on the display, or will it also correct my dash speedometer?
Thanks in advance!!
Right now I am running on Level 2 (Towing) because I see on the forums that is what everyone else is running. Why do people do that instead of run on Level 3 which is supposed to be the performance tune?
Also, when I changed the tune, I let it go to Level 2 and pushed "No" when it asked if I wanted to do custom tuning. I then later went into the menu options and changed the tire size to "35x12.5R20". I understand that it would be more accurate if I had the mm's with squish factored in, but I'll get to that later. Did I do this right, and is my truck calibrated for the larger tire size now? Or was I supposed to push "Yes" to doing custom tuning?
Also, when you change the tire size, does it only correct the speedometer on the display, or will it also correct my dash speedometer?
Thanks in advance!!
Last edited by SportTractoF150; Oct 6, 2010 at 03:54 PM. Reason: Misnamed product: Can a Mod change the title to "2009 Gryphon CS" please?
Okay, so I have my Evolution CS (waiting on 3 custom tunes from PHP) running on my 2009 F-150 Platinum. Just a few quick questions.
Right now I am running on Level 2 (Towing) because I see on the forums that is what everyone else is running.
I'm running level 1 (economy).
Why do people do that instead of run on Level 3 which is supposed to be the performance tune?
Because most of us don't want to pay the $$ for 91+ octane. You could try an experiment to see if your MPGs increase enough to pay for premium.
Also, when I changed the tune, I let it go to Level 2 and pushed "No" when it asked if I wanted to do custom tuning. I then later went into the menu options and changed the tire size to "35x12.5R20". I understand that it would be more accurate if I had the mm's with squish factored in, but I'll get to that later. Did I do this right, and is my truck calibrated for the larger tire size now?
No it isn't (see below).
Or was I supposed to push "Yes" to doing custom tuning?
You were supposed to push yes, make your changes, then upload/flash.
Also, when you change the tire size, does it only correct the speedometer on the display, or will it also correct my dash speedometer?
Your dash speed readout will always be 2-4% higher than your actual speed. Tweak your tire size so that the CS display and GPS are identical.
Thanks in advance!!
Right now I am running on Level 2 (Towing) because I see on the forums that is what everyone else is running.
I'm running level 1 (economy).
Why do people do that instead of run on Level 3 which is supposed to be the performance tune?
Because most of us don't want to pay the $$ for 91+ octane. You could try an experiment to see if your MPGs increase enough to pay for premium.
Also, when I changed the tune, I let it go to Level 2 and pushed "No" when it asked if I wanted to do custom tuning. I then later went into the menu options and changed the tire size to "35x12.5R20". I understand that it would be more accurate if I had the mm's with squish factored in, but I'll get to that later. Did I do this right, and is my truck calibrated for the larger tire size now?
No it isn't (see below).
Or was I supposed to push "Yes" to doing custom tuning?
You were supposed to push yes, make your changes, then upload/flash.
Also, when you change the tire size, does it only correct the speedometer on the display, or will it also correct my dash speedometer?
Your dash speed readout will always be 2-4% higher than your actual speed. Tweak your tire size so that the CS display and GPS are identical.
Thanks in advance!!
Okay so let me see if I got this straight now:
Changing the tire diameter on the Gryphon will NOT correct the dash gauges, but only on the CS? That is okay with me if that is true, as long as one has the correct information.
So, I need to set my truck back to stock, then select whichever level I want, and when it asks if I want to make a custom settings, I push "Yes" and then put in the tire size? Then it will be corrected?
And lastly, let me see if I understand this correctly.
Level 1 is Economy, and is really just a transmission tune (firmer shifts, less throttle lag, etc...no actual power increase) and runs on 87 octane.
Level 2 is Towing, and does the same as Level 1 plus some power addition and runs on 87 octane.
Level 3 is Performance, will have the save as Level 1 but more power than Level 2, but runs on 91+ octane?
I didn't realize level 3 was 91+, I'm glad I didn't flash to it if that is the case.
Changing the tire diameter on the Gryphon will NOT correct the dash gauges, but only on the CS? That is okay with me if that is true, as long as one has the correct information.
So, I need to set my truck back to stock, then select whichever level I want, and when it asks if I want to make a custom settings, I push "Yes" and then put in the tire size? Then it will be corrected?
And lastly, let me see if I understand this correctly.
Level 1 is Economy, and is really just a transmission tune (firmer shifts, less throttle lag, etc...no actual power increase) and runs on 87 octane.
Level 2 is Towing, and does the same as Level 1 plus some power addition and runs on 87 octane.
Level 3 is Performance, will have the save as Level 1 but more power than Level 2, but runs on 91+ octane?
I didn't realize level 3 was 91+, I'm glad I didn't flash to it if that is the case.
I changed my Tire Diameter and my gauges seem right now? I think I was about 3 -4 kmph off, seems bang on now.
I am just running Level 1 now, think I might switch to level 2 until my custom 87 Performance comes along.
I am just running Level 1 now, think I might switch to level 2 until my custom 87 Performance comes along.
Okay so let me see if I got this straight now:
Changing the tire diameter on the Gryphon will NOT correct the dash gauges, but only on the CS? That is okay with me if that is true, as long as one has the correct information.
So, I need to set my truck back to stock, then select whichever level I want, and when it asks if I want to make a custom settings, I push "Yes" and then put in the tire size? Then it will be corrected?
And lastly, let me see if I understand this correctly.
Level 1 is Economy, and is really just a transmission tune (firmer shifts, less throttle lag, etc...no actual power increase) and runs on 87 octane.
Level 2 is Towing, and does the same as Level 1 plus some power addition and runs on 87 octane.
Level 3 is Performance, will have the save as Level 1 but more power than Level 2, but runs on 91+ octane?
I didn't realize level 3 was 91+, I'm glad I didn't flash to it if that is the case.
Changing the tire diameter on the Gryphon will NOT correct the dash gauges, but only on the CS? That is okay with me if that is true, as long as one has the correct information.
So, I need to set my truck back to stock, then select whichever level I want, and when it asks if I want to make a custom settings, I push "Yes" and then put in the tire size? Then it will be corrected?
And lastly, let me see if I understand this correctly.
Level 1 is Economy, and is really just a transmission tune (firmer shifts, less throttle lag, etc...no actual power increase) and runs on 87 octane.
Level 2 is Towing, and does the same as Level 1 plus some power addition and runs on 87 octane.
Level 3 is Performance, will have the save as Level 1 but more power than Level 2, but runs on 91+ octane?
I didn't realize level 3 was 91+, I'm glad I didn't flash to it if that is the case.
If you go to the "Options" menu in the Main menu, it will allow you to set up your "default" TS. You can do this either in P-metric units, "English" units, circumference or the tire or diameter (height) of the tire. This is NOT the "Custom Options" menu you can select when you change the tune! And, it does not actually change anything, until you reprogram the PCM to a new level - then it becomes the "chosen" setting and you don't have to use the "Custom Options" menu to set it. They should have included Gear Ratio (GR) here too, but they didn't.
Now, when programming to a different tune level (or reentering the current one) you are given the choice of opening the "Custom Options" menu. Here, you can enter/change any of the values shown, including TS and GR. I think the CS/CTS DOES use your "factory" GR here unless you change it because you've installed different gears. (No more "placeholder" values - I think.) Once you've finished changing things, scroll to "Use Current Settings" and the PCM will begin to be programmed.
There's no more "Use Previous Settings" choice - it ALWAYS uses the "Previous Settings" when you open the "Custom Options" menu.
And again, once you've programmed the PCM with a new TS (and GR if applicable), it DOES change the dash speedo accordingly. AND you really DO want to make it read about 3% fast (2-3 mph at 70 mph) to make the odometer read correctly.
You've got the "Levels" correct. Don't use level 3 unless you fill with 91-93 octane gas.
- Jack
No, changing tire size on the CS/CTS platforms DOES change the dash speedo as well as in the CS/CTS display. But, the CS/CTS has TWO places where you can change Tire Size (TS)!
If you go to the "Options" menu in the Main menu, it will allow you to set up your "default" TS. You can do this either in P-metric units, "English" units, circumference or the tire or diameter (height) of the tire. This is NOT the "Custom Options" menu you can select when you change the tune! And, it does not actually change anything, until you reprogram the PCM to a new level - then it becomes the "chosen" setting and you don't have to use the "Custom Options" menu to set it. They should have included Gear Ratio (GR) here too, but they didn't.
Now, when programming to a different tune level (or reentering the current one) you are given the choice of opening the "Custom Options" menu. Here, you can enter/change any of the values shown, including TS and GR. I think the CS/CTS DOES use your "factory" GR here unless you change it because you've installed different gears. (No more "placeholder" values - I think.) Once you've finished changing things, scroll to "Use Current Settings" and the PCM will begin to be programmed.
There's no more "Use Previous Settings" choice - it ALWAYS uses the "Previous Settings" when you open the "Custom Options" menu.
And again, once you've programmed the PCM with a new TS (and GR if applicable), it DOES change the dash speedo accordingly. AND you really DO want to make it read about 3% fast (2-3 mph at 70 mph) to make the odometer read correctly.
You've got the "Levels" correct. Don't use level 3 unless you fill with 91-93 octane gas.
- Jack
If you go to the "Options" menu in the Main menu, it will allow you to set up your "default" TS. You can do this either in P-metric units, "English" units, circumference or the tire or diameter (height) of the tire. This is NOT the "Custom Options" menu you can select when you change the tune! And, it does not actually change anything, until you reprogram the PCM to a new level - then it becomes the "chosen" setting and you don't have to use the "Custom Options" menu to set it. They should have included Gear Ratio (GR) here too, but they didn't.
Now, when programming to a different tune level (or reentering the current one) you are given the choice of opening the "Custom Options" menu. Here, you can enter/change any of the values shown, including TS and GR. I think the CS/CTS DOES use your "factory" GR here unless you change it because you've installed different gears. (No more "placeholder" values - I think.) Once you've finished changing things, scroll to "Use Current Settings" and the PCM will begin to be programmed.
There's no more "Use Previous Settings" choice - it ALWAYS uses the "Previous Settings" when you open the "Custom Options" menu.
And again, once you've programmed the PCM with a new TS (and GR if applicable), it DOES change the dash speedo accordingly. AND you really DO want to make it read about 3% fast (2-3 mph at 70 mph) to make the odometer read correctly.
You've got the "Levels" correct. Don't use level 3 unless you fill with 91-93 octane gas.
- Jack
The levels I got right, and I am personally going to use Level 2.
Also, when I correct the TS/GR on the CS it DOES in fact correct the dash. You said that I DO want to make it read about 3% fast...do I need to change the tire size calculation in the custom settings or will the dash do it itself? (i.e.-I change TS on the CS to my correct size, the CS shows correct speed but the dash is 2-3% fast). Is that right?
Next question, if I change the TS in the "Options" menu off of the main screen, and then reprogram the truck to, let's say, Level 2, then my TS will be corrected? If I do it through the "Options" menu, do I still need to do it through the "Custom Options" menu after I program it?
Okay let me try this again.
The levels I got right, and I am personally going to use Level 2.
Also, when I correct the TS/GR on the CS it DOES in fact correct the dash. You said that I DO want to make it read about 3% fast...do I need to change the tire size calculation in the custom settings or will the dash do it itself? (i.e.-I change TS on the CS to my correct size, the CS shows correct speed but the dash is 2-3% fast). Is that right?
Yes - If you ever set in a TS/GR that makes the CS/CTS speed agree with a valid GPS speed, the dash speedo will read about 3% faster and the dash odometer will be correct. The dash speedo reads fast due to mechanical errors in its construction. I suspect since Ford knows there will be an error, they don't want it to be "slow" so they'd be blamed for your speeding ticket.
Next question, if I change the TS in the "Options" menu off of the main screen, and then reprogram the truck to, let's say, Level 2, then my TS will be corrected? If I do it through the "Options" menu, do I still need to do it through the "Custom Options" menu after I program it?
Yes again to the first part of your question, the TS will be "changed" - but here I don't know the algorithm Edge uses. It MAY or MAY NOT account for the "squish" effect (weight of the vehicle on the tires). As an example, my tires are 275/65R18s and they have an "unloaded" diameter of 32.07". I have to enter a "loaded diameter" of 31.1" (about a 3% squish reduction) to make my CTS speed and dash odometer read correctly. I did this in the Custom Options menu and never bothered setting it in the "Options" menu. I suspect though, since the Options menu gives you four ways to enter the TS, it does NOT account for squish. So, if I were to set things up in the Options menu, I'd enter TS as 31.1 and not as 275/65R18. Then, I should be able to skip Custom Options and my speed would be correct.
The levels I got right, and I am personally going to use Level 2.
Also, when I correct the TS/GR on the CS it DOES in fact correct the dash. You said that I DO want to make it read about 3% fast...do I need to change the tire size calculation in the custom settings or will the dash do it itself? (i.e.-I change TS on the CS to my correct size, the CS shows correct speed but the dash is 2-3% fast). Is that right?
Yes - If you ever set in a TS/GR that makes the CS/CTS speed agree with a valid GPS speed, the dash speedo will read about 3% faster and the dash odometer will be correct. The dash speedo reads fast due to mechanical errors in its construction. I suspect since Ford knows there will be an error, they don't want it to be "slow" so they'd be blamed for your speeding ticket.

Next question, if I change the TS in the "Options" menu off of the main screen, and then reprogram the truck to, let's say, Level 2, then my TS will be corrected? If I do it through the "Options" menu, do I still need to do it through the "Custom Options" menu after I program it?
Yes again to the first part of your question, the TS will be "changed" - but here I don't know the algorithm Edge uses. It MAY or MAY NOT account for the "squish" effect (weight of the vehicle on the tires). As an example, my tires are 275/65R18s and they have an "unloaded" diameter of 32.07". I have to enter a "loaded diameter" of 31.1" (about a 3% squish reduction) to make my CTS speed and dash odometer read correctly. I did this in the Custom Options menu and never bothered setting it in the "Options" menu. I suspect though, since the Options menu gives you four ways to enter the TS, it does NOT account for squish. So, if I were to set things up in the Options menu, I'd enter TS as 31.1 and not as 275/65R18. Then, I should be able to skip Custom Options and my speed would be correct.
I know, it's confusing - but not as bad as the older Edge Evolution/Gryphon!
P.S. I think the Level 2 tune is a very good "daily driver" tune, whether you tow or not.
- Jack
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Thanks for all your help. I think I've got it now. I'll put my truck back to the stock tune, then change the TS in the "Options" menu, then tune the truck to Level 2, say no to the "Custom Options" and then I should be good to go.
Is the "Custom Options" menu the only way to find out if the tuner has my correct GR?
Is the "Custom Options" menu the only way to find out if the tuner has my correct GR?
Okay, so I ended up doing everything and got it all figured out. I'm back on Level 2 now with the correct tire size of 33.6"
I ended up changing the tire size in the "Options" menu and then also pushed "Yes" to the "Custom Options" questions. I did this to check the GR. I'm glad I did; it confirmed that if all you need to change is the TS, you can do so in the "Options" menu off of the main menu and there is no need to do it in the "Custom Options" selection....it also let me find out that it had the wrong GR set in my tuner. It had my GR set to 3.73 but I have 3.55 gearing. I wish I had 3.73 but I know since I have the small mirrors (not tow mirrors=max towing option), then there is no way I have the 3.73 gearing, which leaves it to be the 3.55 LS like I ordered. I guess the computer system was just confused or it was a default option.
I ended up changing the tire size in the "Options" menu and then also pushed "Yes" to the "Custom Options" questions. I did this to check the GR. I'm glad I did; it confirmed that if all you need to change is the TS, you can do so in the "Options" menu off of the main menu and there is no need to do it in the "Custom Options" selection....it also let me find out that it had the wrong GR set in my tuner. It had my GR set to 3.73 but I have 3.55 gearing. I wish I had 3.73 but I know since I have the small mirrors (not tow mirrors=max towing option), then there is no way I have the 3.73 gearing, which leaves it to be the 3.55 LS like I ordered. I guess the computer system was just confused or it was a default option.
Per an e-mail from Edge tech support:
As for the tire size adjustment, the Evolution calculate the tire size as though it was perfectly round. If you are trying to calculate your squish factor simply measure the sire size with a tape measure. You may have to adjust the tire size slightly to get it close to what your GPS reads.
I've said this before, but I'm not really a fan of the "tape measure" method. It gives you a starting point, but you still really have to make further adjustments. The "revs/mile" figures that Tire Rack and some other sites publish seem quite accurate and you can do a little trivial math to convert to circumference or diameter. I've found though, that a 3% reduction in unloaded diameter or circumference is usually VERY close (unless you have super low-profile tires).
The tape measure method doesn't account for centrifugal expansion of the tire as it rotates at speed, and, the increase in pressure caused by heating. I know, the effect is minor, but is probably noticeable.
Thanks, shotgunz, for the confirmation from Edge. I suspected as much, due to the way the data could be entered.
And SportTractoF150 - thanks for letting us know about the GR. Now that you've set it to 3.55, it should be the value you see anytime you open the Custom Options menu again. And, if you DON'T open that menu, I think the programmer will take the GR from the VID section of the PCM, which should be the factory size.
You can also confirm they installed a 3.55 LS differential if you look at the "Axle Code" on your door sticker. It should be "H9".
- Jack
The tape measure method doesn't account for centrifugal expansion of the tire as it rotates at speed, and, the increase in pressure caused by heating. I know, the effect is minor, but is probably noticeable.
Thanks, shotgunz, for the confirmation from Edge. I suspected as much, due to the way the data could be entered.
And SportTractoF150 - thanks for letting us know about the GR. Now that you've set it to 3.55, it should be the value you see anytime you open the Custom Options menu again. And, if you DON'T open that menu, I think the programmer will take the GR from the VID section of the PCM, which should be the factory size.
You can also confirm they installed a 3.55 LS differential if you look at the "Axle Code" on your door sticker. It should be "H9".
- Jack
I've said this before, but I'm not really a fan of the "tape measure" method. It gives you a starting point, but you still really have to make further adjustments. The "revs/mile" figures that Tire Rack and some other sites publish seem quite accurate and you can do a little trivial math to convert to circumference or diameter. I've found though, that a 3% reduction in unloaded diameter or circumference is usually VERY close (unless you have super low-profile tires).
The tape measure method doesn't account for centrifugal expansion of the tire as it rotates at speed, and, the increase in pressure caused by heating. I know, the effect is minor, but is probably noticeable.
Thanks, shotgunz, for the confirmation from Edge. I suspected as much, due to the way the data could be entered.
And SportTractoF150 - thanks for letting us know about the GR. Now that you've set it to 3.55, it should be the value you see anytime you open the Custom Options menu again. And, if you DON'T open that menu, I think the programmer will take the GR from the VID section of the PCM, which should be the factory size.
You can also confirm they installed a 3.55 LS differential if you look at the "Axle Code" on your door sticker. It should be "H9".
- Jack
The tape measure method doesn't account for centrifugal expansion of the tire as it rotates at speed, and, the increase in pressure caused by heating. I know, the effect is minor, but is probably noticeable.
Thanks, shotgunz, for the confirmation from Edge. I suspected as much, due to the way the data could be entered.
And SportTractoF150 - thanks for letting us know about the GR. Now that you've set it to 3.55, it should be the value you see anytime you open the Custom Options menu again. And, if you DON'T open that menu, I think the programmer will take the GR from the VID section of the PCM, which should be the factory size.
You can also confirm they installed a 3.55 LS differential if you look at the "Axle Code" on your door sticker. It should be "H9".
- Jack
Edit: The code for the 3.73 LS is B6.
Last edited by SportTractoF150; Oct 7, 2010 at 09:45 PM. Reason: Looked up info






