Does anyone know anything about these chips? I just paid $65 for my 00' v-6 f-150 with a 5 spd manual. It seems like a deal, but If I have to get it re-flashed or something then hell no...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...4/101_7106.jpg

 

I would imagine that the blue chip would need to be set up for your engine code; that only make sense

 

yeah, the code is EGJ3, and so i know it will work, but im just wondering what gains, if any and what now...but oh well

thanks for the reply

 

Actually, that chip *does* have to be programmed to the exact same computer code of the vehicle it's going to be used on - otherwise, the vehicle won't even start with it installed in most cases - or if it does start, it can't be driven as it will run very poorly, make no power, etc.

Just FYI - your EGJ3-code 4.2 V6 F-150 cannot even go Open Loop in it's stock factory program, which means it cannot even make it's STOCK rated power from the factory - and that particular chip can't fix that problem, that requires our *custom* tuning.

Now don't get me wrong, that chip will certainly improve the performance of your 4.2 V6, and you should enjoy it - you'll see about a 10-12 HP gain from that chip on your particular EGJ3-code F-150 (assuming it's programmed with the matching code for your vehicle, of course). Just to compare, you would see a minimum of double that much (and in many cases more) raw power gain and significantly better performance results via our custom tuning, as it could then go into Open Loop correctly, and numerous other additional things are further improved in our custom tuning beyond what is done in products like that chip or the 1714, 1715, 1745 Micro Tuners, etc.

However, that chip will also remove the top speed limiter, and for some people it's worth it for that alone! So if you got it for that low cost and don't have to pay to have it reprogrammed *and* you have all the original documentation and thorough installation instructions (especially with regard to how to properly clean the J3 connector), then you got a good deal and should enjoy it - there are a lot of people out there still running those older single-bank style chips on these trucks and loving them.

Good luck!

 

interesting...well how much are we looking at mr. salesman of the month? cus, I got this chip from a classified on this site, and talked him down to 65 bucks shipped. And (my passenger door says EGJ3) and he didnt say anything about documentation, or any special way to install it, except remove some glue off the terminal in the truck...soo...give me a ball park, or whatever help you can on installation por favor.

thanks

 

>>>well how much are we looking at mr. salesman of the month?<<<

1st - It's against the rules of F-150 Online for us to discuss any specific pricing here - if you want that info, you can call us at our number listed below.

2nd - I'm not playing salesman, I was just trying to help you by filling you in on a few things, not solicit smart comments - and you're welcome, by the way.

Last - any documentation, Tech Support, or anything else regarding that chip are strictly between you and whoever you purchased it from when you buy something used.

I'm glad to hear it's the same code as your vehicle, so that you shouldn't need to pay to have it reprogrammed - good luck & hope you enjoy it!

 

I hope I didn't come across like an ***..the whole "salesman" was just a stupid joke. haha. I really appreciate your info, and your products. I should be receiving the chip this afternoon, and im anxious to put it in. Ill give you a call as soon as I decide if this will suffice. so, thanks again sir.

 

so does anyone know how, and where to install this chip? im lost...thanks

 

Try searching the archives here on F150online. There’s bound to be install tips posted

 

Hi bojanglys,

Thanks for your post - and I do have to confess that I probably did take it wrong - my apologies as well. The bottom line is, you need some basic info/help on getting that chip installed so you can enjoy it - the easiest thing to do is use the SEARCH feature here looking for previous posts of ours with very detailed instructions we have posted here over the years on the best way to clean the connector on the back of the PCM.

Briefly..........

Any time you install or remove the chip from your vehicle, always disconnect the battery - make sure you don't have the keys in the ignition when you disconnect or connect the battery. Then remove the PCM from the vehicle - look under the hood, right behind the battery - you will see the PCM's wiring harness protrude from the firewall, with a 10mm bolt head dead-center - use a 10mm socket to continue loosening it until you can finally detach that wiring harness from the front of the PCM - the bolt stays in the harness, you don't remove it.

Then go the passenger side in the cabin looking just above the passenger side kick panel, you will see the back of the PCM - there will be a small black plastic pressure clip holding the PCM against its mounting bracket - slide that pressure clip straight back and once it's off, then just pull the computer (PCM) right out.

Remove both the top and bottom covers of the PCM so you can get to the connector to clean it - on some of the V6's, you can't get the bottom cover off, so you have to spend more time cleaning & scraping the bottom side of the connector. Remove 100% of the clear-colored conformal coating from every bit of surface area on that connector that will be covered by the slot on the Superchip when it's installed - the coating is clear in color, so it's a bit tricky for first-time installers. We use a small straight-blade screwdriver, like in a jeweler's or eyeglass screwdriver kit, to scrape & "shave" that clear coating off - it will turn opaque to white-ish as you scrape. Remove all the coating, not just from the contacts, but from ALL of the connector - in between the contacts, the edges, etc.

It's also a good idea to have a magnifying glass and strong, bright light to look at the connector so you can better see the coating - be careful, don't scrape so long or hard as to remove the protective tin coating from the contacts - if you see any copper color showing on the contacts, that's going too far. It won't hurt anything if you have a little bit of copper showing on an edge of a contact here & there, but you DON'T want to have all copper showing - that means you've removed all the protective tin and may have damaged the contacts, requiring laying down solder to repair them.

Now don't let this scare you, I'm just giving you some info here & things to watch out for, it's not as bad as it might sound.

We use some Q-tips & rubbing alcohol first to clean the connector top & bottom, to remove any white lithium grease that might be there, and also to help soften & loosen up that conformal coating that has to be scraped off. Then scrape carefully using a small straight blade screwdriver (not the corner of the blade, use the front edge to "shave" the coating off). Do this under bright light with some magnification & you will quickly get the hang of it.

Once that is done, put both covers back on the PCM, then attach the Superchip, and then TAPE the Superchip to the PCM (the computer) - make sure you don't tilt the module, tape it so that it stays on straight and cannot tilt - and don't try to close any gap between the back of the Superchip and the computer once you have pushed the Superchip all the way onto the connector as far as it will go - sometimes you will have a gap back there.

Then put the PCM back into the vehicle, reattach the clip on the the back, very carefully reconnect & tighten the wiring harness there on the firewall again (making sure not to bend any pins over in the process), and then reconnect the battery, and fire it up!

If it ever stumbles, rails to start, to stalls, etc., it will usually be because the connection between the chip and the PCM is not good enough - the connector needs more cleaning, etc. and these are really simple issues to check & solve.

Those are the basics, I've probably left a lot out but that should get you up & running - again, use SEARCH here to get some of my old detailed posts on this to help you out, OK?

Good luck & have fun!

 

The one I had on my 2000 4.6 didn't do that much to it. It was supposed to kill the top speed limiter and it did not do it. I was disapointed. I could have put it in wrong I guess? I still have it if somebody wants it.
I think the code is BIK6.