I'm having trouble installing my A/F guage. The way i'm running the 02 is directly to the main 02 wire in the computer harness. My problem is that the gauge is not reading the 02. I have a Superchip Flip-Chip and i'm figuring that this is the problem. What can I do to fix this, i know a ton of you guys have the chip and the guage working properly. Thanks

 

Nobody?

 

I don't know what type of gauge you are using. Try calling these guys I know the app. is for a lightning. but the O2 plugs might be the same, no splice............http://www.southfloridapulleyhq.com/...ge_pigtail.htm

You also might find this interesting if you have the Autometer Light Show A/F gauge............http://gadgetseller.com/gauges/index.htm

 

Hi Falcon,

The reality is that Superchip of yours has nothing to do with your problem, my friend. By the way, you cannot ever just splice into an O2 sensor wiring harness - never do that (and I don't know how you're actually trying to do this, I'm just letting you know that you need to connect to the factory O2 sensors with that type of gauge, but that you can't just splice into that harness). The Ford O2 sensor harness needs to "breathe," and splicing prevents that - this is why (for example) guys who install long-tube headers who do not use the proper O2 harness extenders have such big problems with idle quality, their tuning, etc. So make sure that you use *only* a proper wiring harness connection to the factory narrow-band O2 sensors.

HOWEVER - and this is the most important thing you really need to know about - ALL A/F gauges that connect to the factory narrow-band O2 sensors are complete junk - absolutely worthless for anything other than a light show. This is because the factory O2 sensor is NARROW band, not wideband as is *required* to get correct A/F ratio readings. My advice is to completely ditch that setup, or see if you can sell it, etc - even the guys who do mods to those gauges (and there are several companies that make "improvements" to those narrow band-based A/F gauges) that supposedly make them "read" better aren't worth messing with. Again, this is because you cannot use factory narrow band O2 sensors to get A/F's anywhere other than at 14.64:1 (stoich).

Ever wonder why those kinds of gauges are so cheap, and why wideband A/F gauges cost so much? Because the barrow band-based stuff cannot possibly give you an accurate reading anywhere other than 14.64:1, no matter who makes the gauge, no matter how you install it, no matter who modifies the gauge, etc., etc. - can't be done on a narrow band O2 setup. A proper wideband A/F gauge will set you back about $400 or so - and *that's* what it takes to get A/F's, and part of that kit also includes the correct wideband O2 sensor.

So remember - the ONLY way to get anything even remotely accurate for A/F's is to install a proper WIDEBAND O2 setup - I recommend the Innovate Motorsports unit - we carry them here at Troyer Performance (and I don't mean to play salesman, just letting you know) - give us a call if you want to get the info on a proper wideband setup so you can do this right - otherwise, you need to understand that what you are trying to install, once it is installed and working "correctly," is nothing more than a light show in reality. They (at best) only have the *potential* for accuracy at stoich (14.64:1( A/F - everywhere else, it's worthless, and it's because the factory narrow band O2 sensor's themselves are only made to work at stoich (14.64:1)! So what happens is, the further away from 14.64:1 you get (and every time you get into the throttle any significant amount, your A/F's will get *FAR* richer than 14.64:1), the worse the gauge reads, no matter who makes "modifications" to it.

I'm sorry if I sound a bit "blunt" about this, I don't mean to - it's just that you need to know the truth about ALL narrow band O2-based A/F gauges, my friend - they're basically worthless because narrow band O2's are only designed to work at stoich A/F's (14.64:1).

I hope this info helps you a bit, & best of luck with your truck!