I have a 97 F-150 4.6L and I just bought a Hypertech Power Module (Part #470051).

If anyone has any experience with this chip you understand what I mean and where I'm coming from in this next bit. The instructions are a bit vague for a rookie like myself, but my dad figured it out in 30 seconds (imagine that!)

Next was the installation of the chip to the deeply hidden computer box up underneath the passenger side kickpanel. I had to remove the two fastening screws that are supposed to secure the chip to the computer bracket. Trust me, there is no way on earth that those screws could be tightened. So, as directed, I used duct tape to secure the chip to the computer bracket. Strangely enough though, it would only run without chugging if i had one piece securing the chip. Two pieces of tape would make it chug. After fixing that, I finally was successful in installing it...I think. (I took Q-tips and rubbing alcohol to clean the white grease from the computer terminals)

I know this may seem a bit immature on my end, but because I don't have anyway to deduce whether or not the chip worked, I took it out and attempted to break the top speed limiter. To my surprise, the fuel-pump shutoff was still ~98mph. Every spec code/requirement matches on the box, even down to the AODE code of the powertrain.

Do some makes/models of Hypertech's power modules not alter the top speed limiter? I guess I should also include that I think the 1st-2nd shift during stopsign-like takeoffs does seem to be different, but maybe that's just my imagination? If anyone has any input to anything related to my experience, please share it

 

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Hi kars85,

This is a problem seen with some chipmakers - some of them cannot successfully remove the top speed limiter, which should be a normal part of any performance tune for a computer-controlled car or light truck. then again, it may be that they just don't do that - you'll have to talk to the manufacturer to ascertain that for sure.

However, it could be something else - for example, the connector on the computer not being cleaned thoroughly enough............

It's not enough to just wipe off that blob of white lithium grease from the connector, and then rub the connector down with alcohol - you must *also* scrape off every bit of conformal coating from every bit of surface area on that connector that will be covered by the slot on that chip. And not just the actual contacts on the connector, but in between, to the sides, and to the front - and you must remove both the top and bottom covers o the PCM - meaning disassemble the PCM - to be able to have enough room to properly clean it.

Alcohol alone won't do it - you have to *scrape* the conformal coating off. This conformal coating is clear in color, so it's hard to see until you "cut" it (we use a small straight-blade screwdriver, like from a jeweler's screwdriver kit, to shave & scrape the coating off), and then it turns an opaque-whitish color where you penetrate thru the coating. You have to continue with that scraping process until you have removed literally 100% of the conformal coating from every bit of surface area on the connector that will be covered by the slot on the chip when it is pushed onto that connector. Use a magnifying glass & a strong, bright light so you can get a really good view of that conformal coating as you scrape it off.

Now I can't say whether or not that connector is properly cleaned of course, as I'd have to actually see the PCM to determine that for certain - but if all you did was to wipe it off with rubbing alcohol, then chances are it's not cleaned well enough - you have to *scrape* that conformal coating off, generally speaking.

When you mentioned that it "chugged" with 2 pieces of tape attached, it could be that you were causing the module to tilt by simply putting too much force on the module - and thus putting a strain on the connector (bending it a little bit) and not getting a proper connection. If there is a gap between the back of the chip module and the PCM, don't try to close it by putting more force on the chip - make sure that the chip is "square & straight" on the connector, and then tape it so that it remains in that position.

Those are just some general FYI tips - call your chipmaker if you continue to have problems, and make sure to ask them if they removed the top speed limiter.

Good luck!

 

Most of the time they put a flourescent dye in the conformal coat. It's for inspection purposes.

Try using a blacklight to see what you are doing.

 

is it hard to remove the cover of the computer "box"? it was a b**** as is trying to Q-Tip the lithium grease off...

two weeks after installing the power module i had my first experience with the truck not starting. pulled it out the moduel and it started fine. so i reseated the module again and it started fine too! must be a connection issue...