Just thought I should let everyone know, that I will be hanging with the big boys in a couple weeks here. I will let you all know how it goes.

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2000 Work Series 4.2L v6, 3.08 Gears
Mean Streak Cat-Back Exhaust(Anyone else have one, I hate mine)
Weld Super Single Wheels
Pioneer Deck DEH-P7200
Tinted Windows
Clear Corners
Future Mods: FIPK, Superchip, Spray-on Bedliner, Billet Grille

Email Me at: F150v6@Aol.com

 

Congrats! You will really enjoy the sUpErChIp!!!!!!! The performance gains and firmer shifting that I have experienced are worth their weight in gold.

------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Superchip, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55 rear, class III towing package with super engine cooling/auxiliary transmission cooling HD package, Heavy duty shocks, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, factory leather wrapped steering wheel, FORD bedliner, FORD black tubular cab steps, K&N air filter, mar-hyde rubberized undercoating, Modine climate filtration system, Bugflector II, Mobil 1 oil, build 7/2000

 

You're gonna love it, guy! Congrats and looking forward to your report.

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2000 F-150 Harley-Davidson
Hard Tonneau Cover
Superchip
'99 FLHRCI '95 XLH

 

Hi Split,

Say, what is that "Mean Streak" cat-back exhaust you don't seem to like in your signature, is that a brand name? And if you can tell us, what is it about that system that you don't like in particular, tone, loudness, etc.?

------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Performance Products F150Online Superchip ordering system: F150Online Superchip Ordering System
First National F-150 Online Rally Event Organizer

 

Thanks guys for the replies.
Mike, Breaks down like this. So I get my truck in December of 99. Have no idea what to do. My friend's got a dumped flowmaster cat back on his. His sounds nice. I call all over to find the best price. I get really confused because places that uses mandrel pipe charge more. I had no idea what the difference was so I went to the cheapest one. The guy at the shop told me, he just got these mean streaks in that are made from the guy who invented flowmaster(whatever). And he said they have a deeper more solid tone, where the flowmaster was more hollow sounding. Not listening with what I heard on my buddies truck, I went along with the dude at the shop. Well to make a long story short, I have went back there so many times. First the tip was rattling. The guy said it wasn't welded on. Oh that's good, so it could of came right off, nice. Then he suppossedly welded it on right. Couple weeks later, it started rattling again. SO I had my exhaust dumped. It sounds okay but because of the short bed regular cab, I'm thinking I'm putting out a sweet sound, but my buddy basically said it didn't sound good at all. Thinking of doing it the right way.

Just because everyone asks you a question including myself, in installing a true dual system, does more sound get produced or does it just flow better? I would like a better sound. I don't know if you remember but I was the one that posted about glasspacks. I think I will take your advice on a flowmaster system, for my v6.

Thanks again Mike, and I will keep everyone posted when I get it.

SpliT

 

Hi Split,

My friend, you are dealing with one of the most subjective areas in vehicle that you ever will, and that is, the actual *tone* of your exhaust. And all that matters is whether *you* like it or not, not what anyone else thinks. One of the first things to do is to get your buddy to drive the truck for you, so you can stand outside and listen to it as he drives it by, like other people hear it, and do it at light throttle, and then mid-throttle, and finally, at full-throttle, and see if you like the tone. And if so, don't change an thing.

The thing to be careful with when going with "true duals" is not knocking a hole in the torque curve down low. Sure, just about any "true dual" setup will make more horsepower at heavier throttle openings and higher rpms, but it's what happens on part-throttle down in the lower rpms that really contributes or takes away from overall driveability, especially when cruising on the highway. Torque is the key. On the Triton V-8's, if you're going "true duals", then go with 2.25" diameter exhaust pipe, but for the V-6's, you need to drop that down to 2" pipe diameter. You do that so that with the improved flow capacity, you don't slow the actual velocity of the exhaust gases traveling thru the system down so much that you lose the scavenging efect that helps to pull the spent exhuast gases out of the cylinder heads, as *that* is what knocks a hole in the torque curve down low.

To do a "true dual" setup requires that you also re-do the "Y" pipe, and split it into 2 separate pipes all the way back, from the exhaust manifolds all the way back to the rear of the vehicle, or wherever you have the tips exit.

These days, most of the aftermarket cat-back systems are single 2.5" - 3" systems, and they work *very* well, and are cheaper than doing a "true dual" setup, and usually work better in most cases, unless you take the time and spend the money to properly downsize the diameter of *all* the exhaust tubing, as I described, and that costs a lot of additional $$$ for very little more in the way of power gains over a single aftermarket cat-back system, unnless we're talking about a heavily-modified motor.

My favorite cat-back systems for 4 and 6 cylinder engines has always been Borla, as they have a distinctive & refined "growl", that is never obtrusive, sounds very nice inside and out. I don't care for some of the Borla systems for V-8's, as they can "drone", etc. on some vehicles, but for 4 & 6 cylinder engines, I love Borla.

Just make sure that *you* are happy with how it sounds, it's *your* truck, and that's all that matters, is if *you* are happy.

------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Performance Products F150Online Superchip ordering system: F150Online Superchip Ordering System
First National F-150 Online Rally Event Organizer

 

Thanks Mike,
I have two more questions. You don't have to answer them in as much detail as your last post. Don't get me wrong I love your informative post, I just feel bad because there are so many questions that are addressed to you on these boards.

Anyways, the stock tubing: What size is it? When I got my muffler installed they put a 3 inch pipe on it. Should I stay the same size as my stock pipe with a cat-back system or should I go up or down? Thanks again Mike

 

Hi Split,

On the V-8's it's 2.5", and if memory serves, that is what it is on the 4.2 V-6 as well. I know that a couple of aftermarket exhaust system manufacturers, Dynomax for one, offers the exact same cat-back system for either the 4.2 V-6 or the 4.6 V-8, and then a different part number for the 5.4 motor. I haven't looked to measure it myself on a 4.2 V-6, but I think you're at 2.5" there as well.

Bottom line here is that it really doesn't matter if you go with a "single" system or a "true dual" system, it's the actual flow-engineering that matters most when you're looking for a good cat-back syustem for the street.

This has all changed so much in the past decade or so.....it used to be for *decades*, that with any V-8 or even V-6 motor, you could put a set of "duals" on and you could count on a nice power gain at any throttle positon and any rpm range, but not any more. This is because the factory systems have changed so much, and the fact that they are far better designed, and we now have actual flow engineering involved. So most factory systems on V-6's & V-8's are usually 2.5" in diameter, and then your diesels & V-10's are 3" to 4" or larger in some cases, like the F-450's & up. The end result is the automakers are generally doing a much better job in exhaust systems than they used to years ago, when a lot of us were growing up and first hot-rodding our cars. So while you can still get nice power gains from exhaust changes, it just takes a bit more homework deciding exactly which exhaust changes are best for your vehicle & needs.

Good luck!

------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Performance Products F150Online Superchip ordering system: F150Online Superchip Ordering System
First National F-150 Online Rally Event Organizer

[This message has been edited by Superchips_Distributor (edited 12-13-2000).]

 

Well, I finally installed it, Christmas Day. It has been real windy over here, so I don't know if that's what is the problem. The 10mm socket was the biggest pain in the ___! Other than that though installation wasn't that bad at all.
Hey Mike, if I disconnected the negative battery(right before installation)which was about 40 minutes, then turned on my lights for like 2 minutes, would that reset my computer, or do I need to do it over. Thanks guys, hope everyone had a merry christmas!

 

Hey Split, I have a dual in, dual out mean streak system on my truck. I went to a muffler shop in a town about 15 miles from me. The owner was really informative and really percise on bending the pipes and all. He even had me look when he was half finished with the job.

Guys at work told me it sounds *tough*, but then again it's my truck and my $$$ and I'm the one that needs to be happy with how it sounds and performs(which I am).
I've made a recording of it and it loads up on my nascar page.

Hope you get your exhaust like you want it.

The superchip *works* on my truck. I've taken it out twice. The last time I was going to drive it 4 or 5 days, but after the second day it was like driving a *lead sled* so the chip went back in.

------------------
1998 Nascar
TransGo shift kit - upgraded to AODE/4R70W-HD-2
K&N air filter
Superchip
Custom true duals with meanstreak muffler
Wrenchjock daytime running lamps
Motorsport traction lock - 3.73 gears remain
Summit racing traction bars.
www.wrenchjock.8m.com/nascar.htm
In future: under pulleys, G-tech, CD changer.
Supercharger on Santa list at work (who knows).

 

Hi Split,

Congratulations on your install!

That may or may not have been enough to completely drain all residual voltage from the system. If you have any doubts as to whether or not you effectively cleared the computer, then since the Superchip is installed, just go ahead, and with the computer connected and the Superchip installed, disconnect the battery, and then turn on the headlights for 5 full minutes. Then turn the lights back off, re-connect the battery, and drive away. That will drain any residual voltage from the system and allow a complete fresh program load. You'll then get oh, about 80% to maybe 85% of what the Superchip will ultimately do in terms of the power gain right away, and the last little bit will come in more gradually, as you accumulate the next 350-500 miles or so, as the long trim fuel curve does it's minor adjustments.

In terms of what to expect your truck to feel like with the Superchip installed, it's not going to be like installing a supercharger of course, but you should feel about a 10%-12% increase in peak power, just to give you a rough idea.

Have fun!

------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Performance Products F150Online Superchip ordering system: F150Online Superchip Ordering System
First National F-150 Online Rally Event Organizer

 

Maybe I was expecting to much, or I didn't drain the voltage all the way. In any case, one last question maybe you can help me answer: Now, I installed the superchip and noticed that it says that the chip will be up to 1/4 inch off the computer(maybe not completely flush), but it also says use tape to tape it to the computer. If memory serves from last night(install) , the chip was loosely in, meaning I could probably shake the computer and it probably would have fallen out. Is this all the way in, or do I need to go in further? It is about 1/4 inch off from the computer. Do these need to be put in like a Personal Computer card, where a little force is needed and a nice firm connection is made? or did I install it correctly?

Thanks again Mike

SpliT

[This message has been edited by split (edited 12-26-2000).]

 

I recently installed a R9 chip on my friends Lightning and I was thinking the whole time about 45 minutes I had both doors and the hood open which all have lights and I figured that should be enough drain to completely restart or drain any residual?

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1999 F-150 Lariat SC 2 WD, White/Silver, 5.4L, 3.55LS, K & N FIPK, Superchip, underdrive pulley set, Flowmaster dual chamber one in and duels out, six disc CD changer, towing package and captain chairs

 

Hi Split,

I understand your comparison of the fit of expansion cards in PCs, but no, you'd have to shake that computer pretty hard to actually cause the Superchip to come loose, but the possibility of it coming loose over a long period of time in 4X4 vehicles especially is exactly why the documentation tells you to tape it in after installing it, just in case you have an impact with another vehicle or an obstacle.

One thing to remember is that this is not as tight a connection as you'll have with an expansion card seating inside a PC, it can't possibly be, due to the much wider temperature extremes you have in any automotive environment and the resultant thermal expansion & contraction. Still, the contacts inside the slot have a good grip on the connector, and the tape is just insurance against it working loose over time from bumps, going over rough railroad tracks, offroad use, or what have you, in pickup trucks, SUV's & 4X4 vehicles.

When we talk about the Superchip having sometimes up to 1/4" gap between the back of the computer and the back of the top of the module, that has nothing to do with the connection itself, here we are simply referring to dimensional differences that can been seen in all the various Ford computers; you can end up with anywhere from a completely flush fit on the back to as much as a 1/4" or so gap at the top on the rear, the Superchip is engineered to work on all of them. It's the connection on the bottom that counts, so all you need to do is to make sure that the slot of the Superchip is pushed all the way onto the connector, and then whether there is any gap at the top will simply depend on the dimensions of that particular computer, etc., as they will vary +/- a little bit.

If you're wondering if it's working or not, as long as your engine starts and runs normally, the Superchip is working, and all you have to do is feed it properly with the best quality 92+ octane gasoline you have available in your area for best performance, though you might want to go back and do the procedure as I discussed in my last resposne to you, if you're not sure you got it cleared.

------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Performance Products F150Online Superchip ordering system: F150Online Superchip Ordering System
First National F-150 Online Rally Event Organizer

[This message has been edited by Superchips_Distributor (edited 12-27-2000).]

 

Couldn't be happier:

Reset the computer at 3pm just before work, and just got off(midnight). Decided to try it out again, and see... sure enough huge difference. I squealed the tires going straight at 15mph, hard for me to peel out at 0mph, in a v6. Anyways just thought I should let everyone know that I got the chip working properly.

For everyone that supported the chip and all these topics on Superchips, and of course Mike Troyer, Thank you

SpliT

[This message has been edited by split (edited 12-27-2000).]