Hey Mike,

I'm seriously thinking about switching to Amsoil and was wondering if there was anything I needed to be concerned about since I am running the 1715 Tuner along with your underdrive pulleys and an AF1 intake.

I'm guessing not, just wanted to be certain...


While we're at it, what is your opinion on synthetics?



Thanks

Mark

 

Hi Mark,

I like using Mobil 1 better than Amsoil - it's cheaper and Mobil 1 does not use polymers for their multi-viscosity oils like Amsoil & most others do.

For a motor with mods that is making good power, I like to use Mobil 1 in a weight of 10W-30 - forget that 5W-20 crappola.

For a stock engine, you can certaily use a 5W-30 if you like, in a full synthetic like Mobil 1 - now I do NOT like Mobil1's new 0-weight base oil where it says on the label to use it in place of the 5W-20 oils most automakers are calling for - I disagree with that.

Camshaft manufacturers hate polymers, which is why most of them hate most synthetic oils in general. Now I am NOT a lubricant "expert" - there are certainly people that know more about this than I do, but I do run Mobil 1 10W-30 in all our vehicles year-round, as it gives better engine protection that any 5W20 or 5W-30 - those 5-weight oils are only spec'd for fuel mileage, it's *not* for best wear protection in the engine.

I hope that helps,

 

Mike I use the 0W-20 in winter and the 5W-30 M1 here in Tejas and I've never had any problems...the only comment I'd like to make is that I'd be real hesitant about running the 0W-20 in the summer heat down here,thats why I go with the 5W-30..JMHO..TexfordD

 

Mobil 1 0w-30 will not give you less protection in the summer. The high heat side of the viscosity (30) remains 30w whether it's 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30. The Mobil 1 0w-30 offers excellent protection on startup in any temperature due to it's high flowability. After start up, as the engine warms up, the viscosity changes (as any other multi-viscosity engine oil does) towards the 30w side.
In testing the 0w-30 has also shown more horse power than other weights. The engine has to do less work to get through the oil. This is due to the high flowability of the oil.
Synthectic oil protects better than regular oil, and the quicker the oil can get to your engine parts the better off it is. That's not to say you want to run total 0 weight all the time. It would break down as it got hotter.

 

The way it basically works is, the oil (say, a 5W-20 oil) is, for all reasonable intents, a 20 weight oil at normal operating temperature - the *first* number simply refers to it's flow characteristics in winter, basically - temperatures below freezing. It's a number that is relative rather than an absolute statement of viscosity - the only true "viscosity" index is the second number - the first number is a relative number used to describe it's flow characteristics in winter - at least, as I understand it.

And that would seem to indicate (to some) that you want the lowest possible first number, and then either a 20 or a 30 second number, by and large. I don't necessarily subscribe to that view entirely, though I don't *completely* disagree with it, either.

Now it is hotly debated as to whether or not a higher first number gives better engine protection - some say it doesn't matter whether it's a 5W or 10W base oil, but that the quality of the actual oil purchased is what really matters - that's Amsoil's contention, for example - well, maybe, but I don't buy that quite fully 100%, either.

Sure, I can take any new vehicle and keep it somewhere between stock to mildly modified, run it on 0W or 5W base oils and get a decent service life- but I just don't like doing that - as that, IMHO, does *not* provide engine protection equal to a full synthetic without polymers in a weight of 10W-30.

And here's an interesting side note - our engines all run quieter with Mobil 1 10W-30 - over any other oil, dino or synthetic, ranging from 5W-20 dino oils to other synthetics in different weights, blends in same & different weights, and even other synthetics in the exact same weight (for those who would point out the obvious fact that heavier oils tend to mask noise in general, which is true) - Mobil 1 10W-30 just happens to give us the best results there, too.

Everyone does whatever makes *them* happy - and Lord knows, every oil manufacturer has a different study or report that supports their claims & shoots down the others - to be sure. So what you guys use is up to you, you have to do whatever makes you feel most comfortable - and for most they just stick with cheap dino 5W20 oil from Jiffylube.

Our engines will continue to see Mobil 1 in a weight of 10W-30 (unless we're testing something), and that is what we will continue to recommend by and large, too.

The reason the automakers spec the 5W-20 oils are for helping them meet the federal CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) mandates each model year - not because they provide the best engine protection. For example, years ago when the automakers went to 5W-30 from 10W-30, that was done because they found it gave them an approximate half a tenth mile per gallon improvement - and the switch from 5W-30 to 5W-20? In Fords internal documents, they say it's the same as removing 30,000 cars from our American roads (meaning they can't even give us an individual vehicle mpg differential that is really measurable, is my guess) - but when building millions of vehicles, it's making enough of a difference for them in helping them meet CAFE that it's the primary reason you see those 5W oils spec'd - even though those numbers are so small they mean nothing to me or the rest of us, it apparently means enough to them. And *that* is what these 5W base oils are all about - helping them meet CAFE mandates.

Every GM & Ford powertrain engineer I have spoken with about this says the same thing - not a single one I've spoken to personally has said differently, they all say those 5W base weight oils are not used because they provide best engine protection, they are used by the automakers strictly to help them meet CAFE mandates. Though it is important to note (in all fairness) that they are also quick to point out that 5W base oils (especially a full synthetic) certainly do a good enough job in lower-stress motors so that they generally have a good service life - to be sure. A full-synthetic oil in a weight of 10W-30 generally provides a bit better engine protection, so they say - and I agree.

Remember people - our viewpoint is coming from a performance standpoint, and we're generally talking about vehicles that are not stock, but instead usually have at least some tuning, and intake and an exhaust system - and they are trucks, let's not forget, that's the most important point - trucks which are used for work vehicles, to do heavy towing, etc. - so we don't view them as your average run-of-the-mill Taurus 3.0 V6 motor. We look at them as truck engines and/or engines seeing mods - either way, they're being "pushed" compared to passenger car engines - meaning they see higher loads in general than passenger car engines do - thus we use a different set of requirements for lubricants. Personally, I feel all "light trucks" should have all synthetic lubricants *everywhere*right from the factory. But that's another conversation altogether...............

The bottom line is, you guys do whatever you feel is best for you - overall, todays "name brand" engine oils are generally good enough so you aren't going to make a "bad" move just as long as you change whatever you're using every 3000 miles. For us, we prefer Mobil 1 10W-30, changed every 3000 miles (2000 miles in Lightnings).

Happy Turkey Day!!

 

I work at Valvoline so of course I put the Valvoline SynPower oil in my engine. I just changed it yesterday, draining out the Valvoline All Climate (i got it free, and used it maybe 500 miles), I must say the seat of the pants-o-meter definately saw a rise in HP. I get every valvoline oil for free except the synthetic, durablend, maxlife, all climate, and VR-1 racing oil is all free for me. I payed a whopping 20 bucks (normally 50) for the good stuff, and I say its worth it.

I tried the 0w-30 in my engine last winter, and I dont think it made much difference that I could tell. It also drained out really dark after just 3500 miles, and the Valvoline synpower always looks close to new after i drain it out.

Has anybody else used Valvoline synthetic here?

- Rick -