Line-X, Rhino? Differences?
Rhino: You said, "most of them facts are out of line", seriously which facts are you referring to?
You said Rhino is about the same as LINE-X. How do you figure?
I'm here to answer questions about bedliners because it's a passion. The chances of me actually getting business from being here is slim to none. It's not like I have a product I can ship.
You said Rhino is about the same as LINE-X. How do you figure?
I'm here to answer questions about bedliners because it's a passion. The chances of me actually getting business from being here is slim to none. It's not like I have a product I can ship.
Originally Posted by dmelchi2000
This is actually Smelchi not Dmelchi. I am using his log in because I forgot my password.
RhinoLinings answer this question for me. I am not trying to start anything just want the facts.
If Rhino linings dries so you can walk on it and use it like it had been in there for a year in 9 secondes. Why do all the Rhino stores in my area want the truck for at least 24 hours before they let the customer take possesion of the truck? They also won't let the customer put the tailgate up for two days and no use of the truck for three days. So does it really dry in 9 seconds to the same hardness as Line-X?
Because I can get a bedliner done in an hour and a half and the customer can use it right away. So what is your definition of dry? Or should we really be using the term cure time until full use?
Just wanting to know because I use the fact that Rhino takes so long to set up as a major selling point. And trust me I have rarely and I might even go so far as to say I a have never seen a Rhino lining that didn't have drips and runs in it from the application process. Maybe the three guys in my area aren't good at what they do but it sure seems like a flaw in the material or process for that many of them to look that way.
RhinoLinings answer this question for me. I am not trying to start anything just want the facts.
If Rhino linings dries so you can walk on it and use it like it had been in there for a year in 9 secondes. Why do all the Rhino stores in my area want the truck for at least 24 hours before they let the customer take possesion of the truck? They also won't let the customer put the tailgate up for two days and no use of the truck for three days. So does it really dry in 9 seconds to the same hardness as Line-X?
Because I can get a bedliner done in an hour and a half and the customer can use it right away. So what is your definition of dry? Or should we really be using the term cure time until full use?
Just wanting to know because I use the fact that Rhino takes so long to set up as a major selling point. And trust me I have rarely and I might even go so far as to say I a have never seen a Rhino lining that didn't have drips and runs in it from the application process. Maybe the three guys in my area aren't good at what they do but it sure seems like a flaw in the material or process for that many of them to look that way.
yes 24 hours is a full cure time for rhino after it is sparyed it is 98 percent cured 24 hours for full cure time .
as for them leraving the tailgates down that is stupid cause rhino wants you to put them up so if it is touching the tailgate it will smush down so it can close properly . as for they want the truck for 24 hours they must not be doig there job right i myself no help needed can do 3 to 4 trucks a day by myself . and the customers pick them up right away with the tailgate closed and the rhino not wet . or anything . i would liketo see there work cause if they have drips they need to learn how to spray i will get some pics up on here for you guys to see my work . and what my rhino looks like . and i have done just about 1000 trucks to date since i started about 2 1/2 years ago now buisness is up and running great i am looking to do about 500 trucks a year . plus all my other work we do rustpriffing accesorys etc . but let me get some pics up for you to see the custom work i can do .
we spary chairs for a company they are foam chairs that go into schools and bars , and all kinds of places try and do that with linex . all kinds of colors . we do these special boat bumpers for cruise ships with rhino at my shop . i mean these things are like 3x4 and 4x8 foot in size . my shop is being recoreded by mtv this august for us spraying the chairs so i will let you guys know when it will be aired so you can check it out . we do alot of wierd stuff plus all the trucks but like i said to each his own both great products and what you have heard about them is incorrect and false and the guys must really suck by you for there time to keep trucks and tell people that
I think this discussion may be getting a bit too heated and for that I apologize, Smelchi it honestly does seem that the sprayers in your area are incorrectly applying the rhino or perhaps dont have there spray environments as ideal as they should be. We release our vehicle's directly to our customers once they leave the spray both if they so choose, tailgate up and ready to rock and roll. The only type of wait we recommend is that they dont abuse the rhino excessively for the 1st 24 hours so that the texture, meaning the actual top finish of the rhino has a even look completely across. In all honesty they more than likely could use it before that, however we just use this as a precaution. I have yet to see a truck, utility body, van etc. leave my location with any type of an imperfection, however like I said this is speaking from personal experience and perhaps its our preparation or application that makes for such great results, maybe the line-x application may be a bit more fool-proof i guess you could say, however to that I cannot attest.
Originally Posted by TruckGasm
Rhino: You said, "most of them facts are out of line", seriously which facts are you referring to?
You said Rhino is about the same as LINE-X. How do you figure?
I'm here to answer questions about bedliners because it's a passion. The chances of me actually getting business from being here is slim to none. It's not like I have a product I can ship.
You said Rhino is about the same as LINE-X. How do you figure?
I'm here to answer questions about bedliners because it's a passion. The chances of me actually getting business from being here is slim to none. It's not like I have a product I can ship.
I'm new to all of this, I do know that some of the Rhino info is correct. The body shop in my town won't let it's customers pick up their truck if it is raining, and they always put them outside to cure with the tailgate down, I don't know why but every one of thier trucks has the tailgate down. One of their sprayers said it is because if they close it the lining will cure to its self and cause damage when the tailgate is opened after it is fully cured. I also know that when I bought my new GMC at Ed Schmidt I was given the choice and showed the difference and the Line-X looked FAR more clean, uniform, and factory than the Rhino. The Rhino's finish was NOT uniform, there WAS little drips on the rails as well as on my tie downs, was not impressed. The dealer also told me that Rhino fades very fast and is prone to puncture damage because it's soft, the Line-X warranty also was better, apperantley the lifetime warranty was only at THAT shop, not at any other rhino. Just giving my experience Rhino may be a good liner, but from everyone I've talked to (including the dealership) Line-X is the only way to go!
Glad to know ....
Originally Posted by Norm
My Line-X'd truck gets used like a truck. Lightning Bolt's first post here is to insult, bodes well for his future doesn't it.
thx norm
I got the best of both worlds.
The Rhino was priced better, so I went that route and then put a Line-X sticker on the truck to impress all the guys at the dump.
There were a lot of 'ooohs' and 'aaahs' and compliments when I pulled up and was unloading my refuse.
When I was leaving, one of the county workers, I think it was the guy with the rake, looked in the bed and said,
"Hey man, did you sneeze?".
But I just acted like I didn't hear him and got the hell out of there fast.
The Rhino was priced better, so I went that route and then put a Line-X sticker on the truck to impress all the guys at the dump.
There were a lot of 'ooohs' and 'aaahs' and compliments when I pulled up and was unloading my refuse.
When I was leaving, one of the county workers, I think it was the guy with the rake, looked in the bed and said,
"Hey man, did you sneeze?".
But I just acted like I didn't hear him and got the hell out of there fast.
Thats FUNNY!
I spent a lot of time researching the bedliner industry. Those who use a bedliner product certainly offer very valuable first hand experiences. My posts deal more with the products' chemical and physical differences because most people don't know or have access to that additional information. All tires are made of rubber, but tires can have VERY different physical properties. The same goes with bedliners.
So, here's some more info for you. Like tires are made of rubber, bedliners can be of 3 different basic components:
1. 100% polyurethane
2. 100% polyurea
3. Mix of polyurethane and polyurea
Both polyurethane and polyurea give the bedliner desirable properties. For example, polyurethane has 2 to 3 times the abrasion resistance of polyurea. Polyurea, gives the liner a higher temperature tolerance and tear strength. The best liners contain a mix of both polyurethane and polyurea. Polyurethane is inexpensive, polyurea is more expensive.
To take it a step further, there are two types of polyurethanes: One-part polyurethanes (also called "solvent based") and two-part polyurethanes. One-parts work like this: The polyurethane is suspended in a solvent. A catalyst is added that polymerizes the solvent and leaves just the polyurethane. The catalyst can be a liquid chemical or just air. Two-part polyurethanes work like this: A polyol resin is mixed with isocyanate (a hardener) which renders the polyurethane. Two-part polys are typically harder and much more durable than one-part polys.
Brand Examples:
Mix of polyurea and polyurethane (two-part): LINE-X, Vortex, Ameraguard.
100% polyurethane (two-part): Rhino, Toff.
100% polyurethane (one-part): Superliner, Speedliner, Herculiner, Durabak, Duplicolor.
100% polyurea: Xtreme Liner, Combat.
All the big bedliner companies have done some pretty incredible things. LINE-X has a product called Paxcon (www.paxcon.com) that has been sprayed inside the Pentagon, Federal building in New York and LINE-X has the current contract to spray inside US nuclear submarines. The military uses bullet proof vests. The plates inside the vests are made of titanium and ceramic. There are about 50,000 plates in use in Iraq and Afghanistan and they are all coated with LINE-X. LINE-X dealers have access to about 5 different spray products. There are about 20 more products available (like elastomer foams), but special equipment is need for those.
Here's a military satellite communication trailer that was sprayed at my shop and then shipped to Iraq, we sure were proud that day!

Here's one of those plates being presented to D. Runsfeld for saving this soldiers life (he was shot in the back by a sniper):
I spent a lot of time researching the bedliner industry. Those who use a bedliner product certainly offer very valuable first hand experiences. My posts deal more with the products' chemical and physical differences because most people don't know or have access to that additional information. All tires are made of rubber, but tires can have VERY different physical properties. The same goes with bedliners.
So, here's some more info for you. Like tires are made of rubber, bedliners can be of 3 different basic components:
1. 100% polyurethane
2. 100% polyurea
3. Mix of polyurethane and polyurea
Both polyurethane and polyurea give the bedliner desirable properties. For example, polyurethane has 2 to 3 times the abrasion resistance of polyurea. Polyurea, gives the liner a higher temperature tolerance and tear strength. The best liners contain a mix of both polyurethane and polyurea. Polyurethane is inexpensive, polyurea is more expensive.
To take it a step further, there are two types of polyurethanes: One-part polyurethanes (also called "solvent based") and two-part polyurethanes. One-parts work like this: The polyurethane is suspended in a solvent. A catalyst is added that polymerizes the solvent and leaves just the polyurethane. The catalyst can be a liquid chemical or just air. Two-part polyurethanes work like this: A polyol resin is mixed with isocyanate (a hardener) which renders the polyurethane. Two-part polys are typically harder and much more durable than one-part polys.
Brand Examples:
Mix of polyurea and polyurethane (two-part): LINE-X, Vortex, Ameraguard.
100% polyurethane (two-part): Rhino, Toff.
100% polyurethane (one-part): Superliner, Speedliner, Herculiner, Durabak, Duplicolor.
100% polyurea: Xtreme Liner, Combat.
All the big bedliner companies have done some pretty incredible things. LINE-X has a product called Paxcon (www.paxcon.com) that has been sprayed inside the Pentagon, Federal building in New York and LINE-X has the current contract to spray inside US nuclear submarines. The military uses bullet proof vests. The plates inside the vests are made of titanium and ceramic. There are about 50,000 plates in use in Iraq and Afghanistan and they are all coated with LINE-X. LINE-X dealers have access to about 5 different spray products. There are about 20 more products available (like elastomer foams), but special equipment is need for those.
Here's a military satellite communication trailer that was sprayed at my shop and then shipped to Iraq, we sure were proud that day!


Here's one of those plates being presented to D. Runsfeld for saving this soldiers life (he was shot in the back by a sniper):
Last edited by TruckGasm; Aug 10, 2005 at 09:37 AM.
im guessing half of the rhino dealers that you guys are around are not worried about looks of there product . cause i would say on of the things i like about hino is i can make whatever texture i want with it . depending on how much air and flow i use . let me get some pics up to let you guys see what i mean i ask most of the customers do they want a fine texture or a rough texture up to them . where the high pressure systems only have that fine texture do to thats how the product comes out . where rhino is sprayed and then textured
Rhino: You are incorrect, sir. LINE-X dealers can also vary the texture. I've sprayed (for example) lawn furniture with NO texture at all to VERY rough texture, like large grit sandpaper, on fire trucks. We sprayed very heavy texture where the firemen walk on the truck.
I've sprayed fire brush trucks for several fire depts. Here's one:
Before pic, partially prepped:

After pics; We actually sprayed inside the water tank on this one also. The employee is actually standing in the water tank in the above pic:

I've sprayed fire brush trucks for several fire depts. Here's one:
Before pic, partially prepped:

After pics; We actually sprayed inside the water tank on this one also. The employee is actually standing in the water tank in the above pic:

Last edited by TruckGasm; Aug 10, 2005 at 12:20 PM.
Here's a Rhino we stripped out of a truck, we snapped some pics first (it's partially wet):



Notice the bed bolts. Looks like they use a hole saw and cut the liner around the bolts. We remove the bolts, spray, re-install the bolts. I don't have a close up pic, maybe you can see the difference here:



Notice the bed bolts. Looks like they use a hole saw and cut the liner around the bolts. We remove the bolts, spray, re-install the bolts. I don't have a close up pic, maybe you can see the difference here:
Last edited by TruckGasm; Aug 10, 2005 at 12:27 PM.



