I have some KC Slim lights. They are the long range 130w Crystal Blue bulbs in them. I have a set of plastic "rock guards" And they do not melt to it. The guard sits mabey an 1/8" off the light. I use them all the time. But I don't think that I am ever stopped with them on.

 

Here ya go Skip, here are my side brackets. These are the best brackets I could come up with because they are 1-piece each, even though they look like a caveman bashed his rock-bat into them, lol. I couldn't find my old images of these brackets or the "Z" brackets I made, but I did find an image of the "finished" product before I sprayed it.











I still haven't sprayed the brackets, I still have hard feelings trying to bend them because they were such the PITA! But yeah I think I'm gonna do like you're thinking, and make another version of it. I ran into alignment issues but this design is by far the best because it's durable, fits 4 lights, crafty looking, and really makes you appreciate easier designs

 

WOW those were well put together looks great guys

 

Thanks MUD DIGGER;
glad you enjoyed it!

Skip

 

GREAT JOB Rob;
did the side brackets help to stabilize the light bar for rough road vibrations?
Tell us how you constructed them. Did you just twist the aluminum in a vice with a pair of channel locks or what?

Skip

 

For those of you who added driving or offroad lights behind your grill, you might notice it wobbling or visual vibrations while driving offroad. I have four 6" Hella lights and they wobbled like crazy. I did the fancy bracket bending which in my opinion is the best design since it allows forward and backward placement. Well if your lights wobble, then here is what you'll need...

1) Aluminum stick that is 1" x 1/4" x up to 36"
2) Tape Measure
3) Power Drill
4) Marker
5) Two vise grip pliars
6) A 10mm socket and tools to remove bolts from your current light bar
7) 1/4" drill bit and another bit that accommodates bolts in your current light bar
8) A razor blade
9) 150 grit block sander or a right-angle grinder
10) A hack saw
11) Black spray paint
12) Gloves, goggles, and lots of muscle!!

(Note: For the purpose of this write-up, I only used 3/4" x 1/8". I have 1" x 1/4" brackets already in place. Also, look at the hardware connecting your cross beam to the outer "Z" brackets. If you don't have at least an extra 1/4" of threading, you'll need longer bolts.)

Remove the plastic screw and cap holding the top of the radiator shroud in place. Now measure the distance between the lower headlamp mounting point to the nearest bolt on your light bar. Add two inches to this measurement.


Measure and mark that distance on your aluminum. Now put on some goggles and gloves and cut that piece off.


Here is where you will need vise grip pliars and muscles. I didn't have vise grip pliars so I just used a cable fitting crimper and a crescent wrench. Grip both sides of this bar with the pliars and apply a twisting motion until one end is perpendicular to the other.
(Note 1: Get a good grip! This will be a tough bend! Note 2: If you are starting with the passenger side first, twist the bar clockwise with your right hand in relation to your left. If you are starting with the driver side, twist the bar with your counter clockwise with your right hand in relation to your left. This will give proper symmetry in the appearance of your stabalizers. I am starting with the passenger side, so you can visualize how I am applying my bend. Note 3: Bend in the middle of the bar with your pliars no closer than 3 inches to eachother but also at least an inch from the edges.)




This is roughly what you should have. Keep in mind that my bracket may be shorter because my cross beam is wider since it's holding 4 lights. Some of you may have only 2 lights with a shorter cross beam, therefore you'll have longer stabalizer brackets.


Using the 10mm socket, remove the bolt holding the lower part of the headlight in place. Also, use tools to remove any hardware you have closest to it on your bracket. After you have done this, place the bracket on the cross beam and in the headlight mounting point. Chances are it won't fit, which is normal. Just visualize where the excess is, mark it, and put on your gloves and goggles and grind the excess away. Make sure to grip the bracket with vise pliars as the bracket will get HOT!! (Note: The extra 2 inches you measured earlier is the compensation for extra bending points. A foot too long is better than being an inch too short.)




Using your grinder or the 150 grit block sander, shave away the sharp edges.


(continued...)

 

Test fit your bracket. More than likely you'll need to do some tweeking to the bracket. Both ends need to be flat against their respective mounting points.


Once you have concluded the bracket sets good, now it's time to mark the holes for drilling. I did this just eyeballing it. Be sure to take note the hole that will be drilled for the headlight housing side, as this hole will possibly be a different diameter than the other.


Put on your gloves and goggles. Drill a 1/4" hole for the side that will mount to the housing, and drill a hole on the other end that will match the hardware you are using for your cross beam.


Attach the bracket to the housing and cross beam. Bolt it in place to test for fitment.


If It fits good, the ends are flat against their mounting points, then it's time to spray it with some spray paint. This is purely optional. Just make sure the paint is dry before getting your fingers all over it


Put on your gloves and get your razor blade. Make an incision (or a cut) about 1.5" vertical by the mounting point by the headlamp housing. Slip your bracket through and bolt it in place. Make sure it is on top of the housing piece!!!! Now bolt it to your cross beam at the existing hardware bolting location, and tighten it up. At this point all that is left to do is clip the top of the radiator shroud back in place.






Alright! Give yourself a pat on the back! Now you can do the other side and build some bicepts

 

These are great write ups! I would love to have some 130 watters at night!

I have a 2009 and I am thinking the thick bar grill is not going to let much light through, anyone have any experience yet with the 09/10's?

I may have to mount lights in the lower grill opening unfortunately.

 

Yeah the large bar grill for the FX4s and other models and years of trucks make it more than difficult to get lighting behind your grill and have effective illumination. I've taken a quick peek in an 09 F150 and a lighting bar can be made. Again, the grill is the deciding factor. I'm thinking about putting some fog lights un the opening in the bumper. Since I have 4 driving lights and my headlights, it would be of great help to get fog lamps as well for greater area illumination. Whatever you decide with your new F150, do take pictures and let us know of your progress!!!

 

Nothing started yet Phatta but I will get to it sometime in 2010.

The superduty fog lights (small square ones) I think will fit in the lower bumper. Potential problem with those is wattage, do you know the max? I would like to run at least 100w for aux lights to make it worth it and I don't know if the superduty's will handle it

 

I'm not certain but I wouldn't try it mainly because of the heat. I thought about doing 130W for my existing lights but I'm worried about heat warping the reflectors so I'm gonna go against it. You can find 4" or 5" lighting that will handle 130W, but get ready to pay the price, lol. I'm gonna consider putting 4300k HIDs in place instead of 100W or 130W since they expell less heat than 55W and are as bright if not brighter than 130W.

 

Why not use the Superduty Lights and mount w/ HID? This would eliminate almost all the heat issues. Also, For the 09/10's, why not get some rectangle KC lights, and mount them vertically along the outer edges of the grill, not in the 3 horizontal center slots? They make a grill with LED's in the outer edges for the Superduty's and this is by far the baddest looking grill I have seen. Just my 2 cents... feel free to return any change

 

Thanks guys, great ideas. This is why I am a member here !!

Cheers

 

Anyone done this on a 09/10? Pics?

 

wow this has been a real interesting bunch of posts you all really got my gears turning thanks for that and great work 2 all of u! i will deff. be looking back at this in the near future