I found it at my local salvage yard, forgot what I paid for it but it wasn't much. Just make sure you get the piece from a cab configuration that's the same as yours. I have a supercab and pulled one off of a regular cab and the bolts didn't line up with the holes in the cab. Went back and got one off of a supercab and it fit fine.
@f150farmer, I'm not sure exactly what you're talking about, but I would check the junkyard first before anywhere else.

 

Thanks, looks like the salvage yard for me, because I just called the local Ford dealer and he said the surround/seal was $375!! ABRA auto glass wants $203 to remove/replace with new seal. Complete rear window replacement with tinted window is $434!

I will try the clear silicone bead first, though.

 

One more pesky question, 1clean42, if my surround is not broken, as yours was, can I just remove/replace the sealant?

 

Hey man thanks for this great write up. I used it to replace my leaky window not for the surround. This gave me a great idea of how to do it.

 

if your window is leaking you do not have to pull the halo out or the third brake light out the 9 mm bolt on the inside, are just for the window. what causes the water leak is the gasket on the glass thats it. the halo is just for looks i have done alot of these during the rainy season.

 

streetracer, can you enlighten me on the nomenclature here? Is the halo that 2 or 3" wide piece of dark gray plastic that you would see from the back of the truck and it would house the 3rd brake light? My truck has no gasket between that and the truck body and I see a fairly sizeable gap there of about 3/8". On other trucks of my generation, I see gaskets that fill in that gap. Maybe mine came off before I bought it? Can I just install a generic rubber gasket and fix my leak? My leak comes into the truck at the point where a right rear passenger's head would get wet.

 

Had a guy from ABRA auto/glass repair remove and reinstall my back glass with a new seal for $125. He gave me a discount from the original quote of $200. He used a wireless leak detector to locate the leak and sure enough it was right where the water was coming in. The seal was starting to fail there.

 

i think i have this leaking problem on my 2004 supercab. Should it be the same other than the surround?

 

I know I'm bringing up an old post but I wanted to thank the OP for an informative post. The job took me a little over 2hrs and my truck doesn't leak anymore. Cost me a whopping $14 vs the minimum of $100 I got from auto glass places in town.

 

As a Auto glass installer for 16 years. I would NEVER use urethane to install the back glass/slider. It was said in an previous post that primers may be needed. I also read that different cleaners were used which could mean that the seal may not have adhered properly (due to contamination). For all of you that did use urethane, I wish you the best! Just pray that you don't have to try to take it out again because it will be a real bugger. Most Auto glass shops will sell you a roll of butyl tape for a pretty fair price. Hope my input helps...

 

On a different note... The newer F-150's do tend to leak from the third brake light. Most people think it is the back glass/slider. to fix that issue, a smaller diameter of butyl tape can be used to replace the factory seal on the brake light.

 

Thanks for the insight...I am not an auto glass installer, so I have no arguments against anything you've said. I just used what was suggested to me by my local body/glass shop. I do know that it will be a royal pain to remove if I ever have to, but hopefully it holds up. The butyl tape is what Ford used from the factory and is notorious for failing, so that's why I decided to change it up.

Wish that would've been the problem. Would've been such an easy fix lol

 

I wish I saw this post first instead of last. I tried the urethane thing twice. I was super clean and methodical about it. 1st time was without primer and leaked like a sieve. 2nd time with primer and twice the bead and had one leak in the lower corner that would not fill. I pretty much had to chisel the window out, scratching the paint and distorting the sheetmetal in the contact area and actually chipping off a piece of the plastic frame of the window itself rendering it useless. This experience has left me with more work and $$$ in it than paying a professional to do it right the first time...which is a hard pill for me to swallow...

Like the gentleman above said "For all of you that did use urethane, I wish you the best! Just pray that you don't have to try to take it out again because it will be a real bugger...".... I would have used a different word than "bugger" and it starts with an "m"...

 

Typical problem here.. Leaking in the back of my 2000 F150 when it rains.. Rather than goin through the PITA of taking the window out, what if I just put a sealant around the perimeter of the outside of the rear window.. There's a pretty good gap there.. Would that fix the problem? I don't care how it looks.

 

Your issue could be a few things. First and most common is the third brake light. It is an easy fix: Most auto-glass companies will sell you a roll of butyl tape. It is sticky and never "dries". (It is also used for the installation of the backglass). I would recommend at least doing that regardless that it may not be your problem. The best size to use is 1/8 inch.

Now if it is truly your backglass, and that is common as well (the butyl just failed...), I wouldn't recommend sealing the outside since there is a gap that also where water could go through the trim moulding that is around the glass. My recommendation is spend the money to have it pulled and re-installed.

There were some issues with the manufacturing process of the glass in where the frame was cracking and water was coming through the cracks. Most of those were cought before they were sold though.

Lastly, the outer trim moulding cracks as well and water will leak inside the holes where it gets bolted to the body. That may need to be replaced as well which requires the backglass to be removed so that in a way is a "win-win" deal since the butyl will have to be replaced on the backglass and the seal will be re-done.

Sorry to be so long winded but I want to get it out there for all to know. If anyone wants to talk glass with me I welcome any PM'S and will be willing to give my # out but only if you let me know in the PM that you are going to call.