Alright, time for another rediculously long and detailed write-up from yours truly. I'm a newb when it comes to suspension so if you are like me, you will understand how much it helps to have a guide to show you the right (or wrong) way of doing things. First off, this mod is pretty straightforward: It drops the rear of the truck to give it a leveled look. It does this basically like a fulcrum. The longer drop-shackles let the leaf springs ride higher into the wheel wells thus dropping the bed 1.5" or 2".

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposed only. I will not be held responsible for any damage or injuries caused by attempting the following

Estimated time to complete: 45 minutes - 1 hour 30 minutes
Estimated cost: $30-$45

Tools Needed:

13/16" deep-socket*
15/16" deep socket**
1/2-inch driver
One pair of drop shackles with pre-installed polyurethane bushings
OEM Ford jack and twisting arm
Jack stands

* for 1997 & 1998 trucks
** for 1999 through 2003 trucks



1.) Starting out, lets position the vehicle so that the (preferabbly front) tires are chaulked or blocked off to prevent the vehicle rolling



2.) Pick your side. Left or right, doesn't matter, but because it was the closest as soon as I closed the door, I started out on the left.

Eye your target and learn it. Smell it. Taste it. Be it. Look at it in the eye and tell it: "YOU ARE COMING OUT OF THERE!"



3.) Jack the truck up. I recommend using a cinder block or something of the latter to raise it even higher. As for the jack point, YOU WANT TO JACK THE BODY UP, NOT THE AXLE. So I jacked on my HiddenHitch. I used the sidewalk as an added lift and jacked it all the way to maximum extension. Insert jack stands afterwards for safety.

4.) Break the top and bottom bolts open with your socket.





5.) Now focus your attention to the bottom bolt first. Back him all the way out. As it nears the end, it may start to resist a bit as the threads are the last part holding it in, so just attatch the socket again and continue to back it out.



As the bottom bolt pops out, it will pop or make a jerk for a second. It scared the bujeesus out of me when I first heard it but it was the 11 year-old bonds breaking loose of their constraints.

6.) Next begin to thread out the top bolt. This little flange on the other side will flip over, thereby holding the opposite nut end as you remove the bolt.



7.) Now if you look at it, the frame will be blocking the retreat of the final bolt from its resting place. Lets get back on the jack and lower it down until the bolt clears the frame in the little space under the bed.



One she backs out of there, go ahead and pull the OEM shackle out.



The difference. Also note the bushings. 11 years does a lot of damage. This new shackle should improve ride quality. Lets hope so!

8.) Installation: Since it is already at height, go ahead and place your new drop shackles in place. Deciding right now whether you want 1.5" or 2" of drop. If you only want 1.5", rotate it so the curved side is rearward and slide the bolt through the bottom hole. If 2", keep the curved portion aimed frontwards and bolt the top hole. Then go ahead and hold the nut/flange on the other side as you hand-screw the assembly together



9.) Now raise the truck back up. It would help to have a friend do this as you eye the closing distance, but I went all the way back to the jacks' stop. Then slide the bottom end into position. The new bushings may be a bit thicker, so a hammer or other heavy blunt object may be needed to coerce the DS into place. Hand-tighten and ower all the way to the ground. Then fully tighten all nuts/bolts down accordingly.

Now onto the other side!

10.) This side will be a tad harder since the exhaust is in the way. But just reposition and jack all the way up. Insert jack stands for safety (if provided).

 

11.) Eye your next target. Let it know who is boss. Then show him his fallen comrade in your hand and let it know: "YOU ARE COMING OUT OF THERE!"



12.) Again, break both bolts open and then retreat the bottom bolt out first. As the bolt nears the end, the threads will catch. The nut on the opposing side of the bolt will fall to the ground. Don't lose it! Again, just back it all the way out with the socket.



Remove the nut to the top bolt as well. As the bottom bolt comes out, the shackle will hang there in defeat.



13.) Now lower the truck so the top bolt clears the frame.



The top one is a bit easier to remove. As you pull the top bolt out with one hand, remove the shackle with the other hand.



14.) Position your new shackle in place and reinstall the top bolt. Hand-tighten the nut.

15.) Now raise the truck BACK up (I know, I know, but this is the last time, I promise!). Have a trustworthy friend operate the jack while you slide the bottom into place. This is the most time-consuming part as the bushing is a bit bigger and needs a bit of a confidence...... smack.



Get is as close as you can!!!



16.) Slide the bolt and and with taps here and there and spin the bolt to try to get the threads to bite the other end. If you feel resistance when spinning it (clockwise, of course) just attatch your socket and ratchet away!



With the flange/nut on:



17.) Now, lower the truck and remove the jack. Make sure you have FULLY tightened all of your four bolts. You really do not want to lose a shackle going down the road. Stand back and apreciate a job well done!



Before:



After:



Go take your new truck for a ride. I noticed an improvement in ride quality right away. Bumps are less severe and I can feel the back end is dropped. Don't forget to readjust your mirrors. Enjoy!

-Alex

 

Few points to note, that you may have left out unintentionally.

1. For maximum drop, and for longevity of the bushing, you need to lower the weight of the truck onto the shackle before doing final torque down. If you tighten them before hand when you set the truck down, it will stretch and tear the bushings slightly.
2. Pinion angle shims are always needed, with drop shackles you are altering the pinion angle, so you need a shim to correct it.
3. Measure before and after as derek already mentioned, just for satisfaction
4. Every shackle ive seen has a 2" setting and a 1.5" setting not a 1" setting. Also in your case you'd have to flip the shackle around 180 so the leaf spring can clear the shackle if you decide to go to the higher ride hole

As a side note i really hate to see you using the bottle jack like that, they are much better then scissor jacks, but still can be very dangerous. Ive actually lost a car off a bottle jack before because it wasn't chalked properly and it rolled slightly and tipped the bottle jack over. Luckily i wasn't under the car.

All this being said, pretty good writeup, but there is a little faster way to do it, but thats another time and place

 

This is one fine article, Thank you.

 

Edited the article accordingly, thanks Pat.

Welcome. It took me twice as long as usual because I had to keep running upstairs to search how to do it when I got lost. :o

 

Very useful post. I have always wondered where the shackles had to be installed

 

Thanks for this write up...
Did you install the "shims" yet? Besides where does this "shim" thing go??
Truck looks nice, but how many " did you drop it?

 

the shims go between the axle and leaf springs.

and mine went down 2"

 

Nice picutres and write-up. Dont forget to adjust the headlights too. No need ot shine in peoples' eyes with them more pointed up now.

 

Mine were already aimed quite a bit down with the HIDs but this level put them right where I want them. Still haven't got flashed yet

 

looks pretty damn good! i got a 1.5" leveling kit and i kinda think i should do this so i get the back end lowered look(i like it alot). i also think i should buy my next truck from florida. the condition of your truck is WAY WAY different then mine, road salt and snow really takes its toll on our canadian trucks.

 

Thanks for all the info in this write up, now I really want to get working on my truck.

 

That is a great writeup! My girlfriend has a Sport Trac and wants an F150 but I'd have to lower the bed to level because she's only 5' tall, and all of us F150 owners know the beds are DEEP, lol. Anywho, now I'll know how to do it! I can do the front, but now I know how to do the back! (If that didn't sound right, I didn't mean it that way, lol).

 

Doing this same mod tonight, along with KYB shocks all the way around. Can't wait to get off work!

 

do you got to LSU? I believe you are in my apt. complex.