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yes the resistor is a must. otherwise the voltage blows the led (trust me). im looking into some led bulbs that come on posts like the stock ones from superbrightleds.com but im not sure what size would be needed and it would only work for the 97-98 or 99
mk kewl thanks if you can leme know what you come up with!!!
what you mean by post is the piece that hold the bulb into place right? the little grey thing?
i know ur having to be repetitive but i want to make sure i get the right thing measured lol sry....
ill need the diameter of the post, diameter of the base, length of the post and distance between the leads on the back.
mk bud i jus got done doin the swap! kinda of a pain in the butt..... lol but i got it done! i used a 560 ohm resistor cause that the only thing closest that i could find =/ i dont know the difference that its gona make compared to yours but we'll find out when it gets dark!
ne ways.... heres the measure ments that i got for ya!
diameter of the post= 1/4"
diameter of the base= about 1/2"
length of the post= about 1 inch( thats with the stock bulb included)
the distance between the leads= about 1/8"
These are supposed to be pretty much direct replacements for some of our instrument lights. My headlight bulb went out last night and after some looking and chatting with someone there this seems to be it. I'll let people know after I get it if anyone is interested.
I know this is an old thread, but wanted to update based on my experience on the headlight switch LED swap. Some observations:
Go with the 680 ohm 1/2 watt resister recommendation. I ended up using a green LED. There are LED calculators online you can use to verify the resistance value for your resistor. 680 was spot on. Went with the 1/2 watt resistor for safety.
I wanted to avoid re-soldering the connection on the back of the board, so I crushed the old bulb with some needle-nose pliers, and soldered the new LED/resistor onto the old leads that went into the bulb. I heated them up before bending them.
Dry-fit everything before soldering/bending, to make sure it lines up. In mine, there was a very deliberate path for the light to take, so I went by that.
I covered everything with liquid electrical tape after everything was set. (not pictured). I know this circuit is low voltage, but I just wanted to be certain to minimize any risk of an arc/short.
Thank you to everyone in this thread for posting their tips!
