TN-F150

I am wanting to replace my driver's side IWE actuator and was wondering if I could get a copy of those pdf files you mentioned. I've been fighting this grinding noise for over a year now and I'm getting tired of it. I did a lot of research on this site and replaced the IWE solenoid first. Of course the damage had already been done and the grinding continued. I took it to the local dealership only to pay them $700 for the replacement of the passenger side actuator and hub assembly. They swore up and down the driver's side was fine. The constant grinding while driving stopped, but now it grinds when I actually try to use the 4 wheel drive. So $700 and still no 4x4. My guess is that the driver's side actuator (hopefully not hub also) was also bad, just not bad enough to grind constantly. I can't imagine it being anything else since everything else in the system is brand new. It sounds like it can be replaced pretty easily so I'm going to at least give it a try so I can minimize the additional money put into this P.O.S. 4 wheel system. Also, I noticed you said you ordered from Tasca Ford. Would it be possible for me to order one through them also? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Sure! Send me an email and I'll send them back. It's a fairly easy fix.

Anyone can order from Tasca http://www.tascafordparts.com//index.do, and I have, but I prefer Bob Utter out of TX http://www.parts.com/partlocator/ind...?siteid=213787. Just call either one and they can get what you need.

 

Thanks for your reply, but I actually decided to break down and pay for the 72 hour access. I figured it was better for me to just go ahead and download as many pdf instructions as possible on things that I'll probably be working on in the future.

I got the actuator ordered and hope to install it this weekend. I'll post my results when I'm finished. I'm praying to have 4 wheel drive again after going over a year without.

Oh yeah, one more question. I ordered part# 7L1Z-3C247-A. I noticed on the site I ordered from there was also a part# 5L1Z-3C247-A for about $15 less. I went ahead with the 7L1Z because it looks like that's what the dealership installed on the passenger side. Do you remember which part number you used? It looks like the descriptions are the same except the 7L1Z says 'new style' in it. I'm not sure what, if anything, was changed on this part.

 

Not sure the difference but mine were the 7L1Z numbers.

Good luck and if you have any questions, drop me an email.

 

Thanks for your help. I'm glad I ran across this thread.

 

Alright, just thought I'd follow up on the results of my actuator replacement. I followed the instructions from the service manual and it took me about 20 minutes to get everything apart. Removed the old actuator and was expecting to see damage to the gears. I started to get a little nervous because everything seemed to look okay. Then I noticed that it seemed like it was stuck in the disengaged position. I pushed it in and out a few times and it shot a bunch of rust particles and dust out of the vacuum inlets. This was probably a result of the water entering the solenoid and running down the vacuum tubes. So anyway, I reversed the steps and put everything back together. It took a little longer because some of the parts can be a pain to line back up. I then went to the nearest gravel parking lot to test it out and everything worked perfectly with no more grinding. The only thing that annoys me is that I could have saved about $600 by replacing both sides myself. Overall I would say this project is pretty simple. I did it by myself, but it would probably be easier with someone else helping.

 

Cool! Glad you got it done. I still need to do my drivers side, once it warms up a little. I did mine myself and the only times I needed a second set of hands was when I had my wife start the upper ball-joint nut while I held the CA down. Where did you think you needed another person? Just curious. It's definitely cheaper if you can DIY most work.

Congrats!

 

Same part you did. Getting the nut started on the upper ball joint was a major pain for me. I had to pull down the control arm while getting the threads started on the nut. Other than that, it was fine though. It kind of annoys me that the dealership insisted on replacing my passenger side hub. I have a feeling it would have been fine with just replacing the actuator.

Oh well, I don't plan on ever taking anything back there again. The guy who worked on my truck somehow broke the CV axel in the process. After doing it myself, I have no idea how that's even possible. Must have taken a sledge hammer to it or something.

 

Mine quoted $594 for passenger side and also said HUB. I KNEW it was not the hub after researching and understanding how the system works. I think most use the word as a broad term but mine actually quoted me for the HUB so it may be a case of quote the higher priced part and replace the cheaper part and Joe Customer knows no different.

I only go back to mine at the Quick Lane for oil changes.

How he broke the axle I sure wouldn't know! Even with a BFH it would take a lot of work to break one.

 

Yeah, the itemized receipt from the dealership said they replaced both the actuator and the hub. I thought about replacing both on the driver's side as well, but the hub is about a $250 part. It looked fine when I got in there so I'm glad I didn't go ahead and order a new one. I think it's one of those things where the hub will be fine as long as you don't let the actuator grind for too long. The driver's side was essentially seized in 2WD so it only made the grinding noise for a second while trying to engage the 4WD. The passenger side was probably bad because the gears were grinding pretty much non-stop on that side for quite a while. It got to the point where I would have to flip the 4X4 switch on and off every 30 seconds just to keep the noise down.

 

Know what you mean. My drivers side has to be babied for the first 5 mins or so if the temps are under 20. Then it's fine till the truck gets cold again.

I think the IWE actuators are intentionally made softer so not to trash the high dollar hub and instead round off the gear in the $75 actuator. Good plan, but somewhat weak system IMO. I love my truck but that's one thing they could have left alone from previous model years. I'll take the lower gas mileage for a more proven and less breakable, less parts to break system. In fact, my 2000 got almost exactly the same mpg, so to me there was no benefit in the redesign. This system just has way too many points of potential failure.

 

Is there only one solenoid that controls both sides or are there 2 separate ones?
I had this problem about a year ago and the dealership replaced a solenoid the drivers side acuator and the hub under warranty. Now I am out of the warranty and I started hearing the whining noise this morning coming to work on the passengers side. I am thinking I should just order the actuator and replace it and be done, but I didn't know if there could be a second solenoid that could be bad. I want to get on this quick so that I don't have any more damage.

 

Nope, just the one. If the dealer replaced it, you should be fine with just the actuator.

 

Thanks. Is there any special grease you need for the replacement or does the part come with it?

 

Yeah, it comes greased. Just the tools I listed are needed. Did you get the install PDF's?