How To: Change out the red blinking LED bulb on the dash. 04-08 model truck's.
Well I just got back from RadioShack with a 5mm green LED. I took the old red led out and swapped it. Took 10 minutes tops for the whole job. It was really simple to do and at least now all the lights in my truck are green. I made sure when I put my KC lights on that I had a green led in the rocker switch too.
was out in the shop and had the solder gun fired up preping a harness for a stereo install tomorrow and decided to try this out.
Took literally ten min start to finish.
I put a wide angle blue in and it lights up nicely.
My plastic slider cover was a whole lot harder to side out though, took a pry tool and quite a bit of force to get it to slide, no way i coulda done it with just my thumb.
I noticed it had two "teeth" towards the rear that were grabbing quite hard.
Great post!
Took literally ten min start to finish.
I put a wide angle blue in and it lights up nicely.
My plastic slider cover was a whole lot harder to side out though, took a pry tool and quite a bit of force to get it to slide, no way i coulda done it with just my thumb.
I noticed it had two "teeth" towards the rear that were grabbing quite hard.
Great post!
Another good place to go is www.superbrightleds.com
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...i?product=LEDS
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...i?product=LEDS
I'd like to try out this mod, looks like an awsome idea but i have a couple questions. I've never soldered before and dont own a gun or pencil for the job.
My questions are.. What would be the best to use for this mod.. A Soldering Gun or Pencil? and how many watts (does it matter)..Ive seen some guns and pencils that were anywhere from 25w to 60w. Is there a special brand or place to get one? And if someone could be more specific on how to re-solder the new led would be great..Do you just install the new led and reheat the existing solder from the bottom to make the connection? Any help is much appreciated.. Cant wait to try this Thanks guys
My questions are.. What would be the best to use for this mod.. A Soldering Gun or Pencil? and how many watts (does it matter)..Ive seen some guns and pencils that were anywhere from 25w to 60w. Is there a special brand or place to get one? And if someone could be more specific on how to re-solder the new led would be great..Do you just install the new led and reheat the existing solder from the bottom to make the connection? Any help is much appreciated.. Cant wait to try this Thanks guys
These connections are soft so any gun or pencil type soldering gun will work. I have a 25W and a 50W. The difference is one gets hot slower (and gets hotter) than the other. Heat the gun up; apply the tip to the solder to melt it. Remove the old LED. Put the new one in place and just reheat the old solder. If it makes you feel better or if the connection seems a little light on the amount of solder, get you some thin solder w/flux core from radio shack (get the gun there too for that matter) and reheat each connection. While the gun is touching the connection (do one at a time so the LED doesn't fall out, touch the spot where the gun is touching the connection with the solder briefly. This will add more solder and ensure a good connection. Be careful not to add too much and cross the connection with any other solder spots. It’s seriously maybe 2 minutes of work. It will take longer to heat up the gun. Lol You can do it. Don't hold the gun to the connection for a long period of time; you can burn the board and the LED if you get them too hot. Ya know, I have a white LED at home I might do this this weekend. I want blue but white will work.
Last edited by Blue150; Sep 18, 2009 at 01:45 PM.
These connections are soft so any gun or pencil type soldering gun will work. I have a 25W and a 50W. The difference is one gets hot slower (and gets hotter) than the other. Heat the gun up; apply the tip to the solder to melt it. Remove the old LED. Put the new one in place and just reheat the old solder. If it makes you feel better or if the connection seems a little light on the amount of solder, get you some thin solder w/flux core from radio shack (get the gun there too for that matter) and reheat each connection. While the gun is touching the connection (do one at a time so the LED doesn't fall out, touch the spot where the gun is touching the connection with the solder briefly. This will add more solder and ensure a good connection. Be careful not to add too much and cross the connection with any other solder spots. It’s seriously maybe 2 minutes of work. It will take longer to heat up the gun. Lol You can do it. Don't hold the gun to the connection for a long period of time; you can burn the board and the LED if you get them too hot. Ya know, I have a white LED at home I might do this this weekend. I want blue but white will work.
Anytime. Probably pencil for cost reasons but its more about which is easier to hold for you. I am going to see if my white LED’s are 3mm. I had forgotten I have about 10 left over from converting my yard path lights to LED.
Ok so i got my 3mm L.E.D today from SBL.E.D's and took the module apart. Im alittle baffled though.. The 3mm L.E.D that i got from SBLEDs is at least 1/2 the size of the red one that i have to remove and the one that "2004Triton5.4" shows in the picture. Is this normal? Do you think he meant 5mm and said 3mm by mistake? Should i have gone with 5mm? Also he mentioned ""Before you attempt to install the new bulb look at it and you'll see that the electrode on the inside of the bulb is smaller on one side"". How the heck do you see a smaller electrode, i dont see anything in it.. What am i looking for? Help!! I'd like to do this today or get a 5mm if needed. Thanks
I added a pic. 3MM L.E.D from SuperbriteLEDs on the left and stock red on the right.
I added a pic. 3MM L.E.D from SuperbriteLEDs on the left and stock red on the right.
Last edited by tg150; Sep 22, 2009 at 04:51 PM. Reason: added picture
The voltage is about the same so the 3 or 5 should not be an issue; if anything, the 5 might be a little dimmer. However, on the electrode issue, look in the plastic bulb of the LED. One side is just a stick looking piece and the other side looks like a stick with a triangular blade attached to it. This is what he is referring too. You should see the same on the OEM LED as well. He is saying, make sure you put it in the way the old one comes out. If you reconnect it after soldering and it doesn’t work, just remove it and turn it around so the contacts swap holes in the board. I hope that makes sense.
Ok, I changed mine tonight. I had about 20 of these little 5mm bastard LED's laying around; leftovers from a very expensive pathlight transition from incandescent bulbs to LED. Anyway, here is a close up pic to show the correct placement of the LED on the little circuit board. Hoe this helps some of you out. I will post pics of the finished product after it gets dark.
Still working on video. Here is a still shot and as you can see it is not even dark outside yet. I might keep the white. This is the LED on as the key is turned on. That brief moment that it stays on for more than a second.
Last edited by Blue150; Sep 22, 2009 at 08:35 PM.



