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Timing Procedure for the 97 -03 Two valve 4.6L & 5.4L Modular Engines

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Old 04-13-2015, 12:52 PM
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Need to set the timing on your 4.6L or 5.4L two valve? This thread includes an invaluable write-up with pictures.

Read the full discussion below to find out how to set your timing.
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Timing Procedure for the 97 -03 Two valve 4.6L & 5.4L Modular Engines

 
  #16  
Old 03-24-2012, 02:18 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Phx, Az
Posts: 11
And can you do this while the engine is still in the truck?
 
  #17  
Old 01-15-2013, 05:26 PM
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Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 220
Is this procedure the same for a 5.4 3v?
 
  #18  
Old 07-09-2015, 10:44 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1
Blujay

With the key way at 12 0clock it would not be at tdc would it ford manual say to used crank tool to move cam after you set cam with hold down tool just want to make sure before i do mine
 
  #19  
Old 11-05-2015, 06:52 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1
Oil / Timing Problem

I am working on a 5.4lt out of a 1999 Ford E350 Van ... I notice my 1-4 cam was 180 out and my 5-8 were set right ... I have oil coming out of my driver side front part of motor somewhere but only when I am driving it ... won't show up when I am in park with high idle ... will the motor start and cause Oil to come out on driver side .. and if so will it cause permant damage ... at least I belive that the 1-4 are 180 out and 5-8 are in .. might be reversed please help with info .. yes van has horrable pickup and shakes and shudders
 
  #20  
Old 12-11-2015, 12:53 AM
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Posts: 4
Thank you for the info

All the info on timing is very helpful but my problem is still that the passenger side cam seems to be fine but the drivers side cam when set to the proper timing marks the intake valve is pushed out and with the motor set with the mark on the crank gear sitting at the 6 o'clock position the number 6 piston is at the top of its stroke so it would seem as though the drivers side cam is a 180 out of time I'm just not sure how that could of happened or how to fix it...
Originally Posted by Bluejay View Post
Posted by Dynotech

In regards to cam timing. Remove cam covers, damper and front cover. Do not remove chains,chain tensioners, or guides yet. Now rotate the crankshaft so the crank keyway is at 12:00. IMPORTANT! Do not move the crankshaft again until both chains,tensioners and guides have been reinstalled and tensioners released. Now remove the chain tensioners and chains. The pistons will all be low enough in the bores with the crank in this position so you can reinstall heads and rotate the cams to set the timing without bending valves. Two ways of finding the correct links to place on the crank and cam timing marks. Look carefully and you should be able to find two darker links on each chain each 180 degs from each other. Those would be the original copper colored timing links. The best way is to lay each chain down flat on a table and pull them lengthwise so you have two parallel rows of links tight against each other. At each end you will have one link facing the opposite direction of the two rows of links. There will be an equal number of links in each row making these end links the two you want to mark with a paint pen. They will be the links that are placed on the timing marks, one on the cam gear and one on the crank gear timing mark. Install the cam timing gears and crank timing gears. Now place the driverside chain with paint marked link on the crank timing gear mark. Holding the chain move it up to the cam gear and while rotating the cam timing gear only NOT THE CRANK! align the other painted chain link up with the cam gear timing mark and place it over the timing gear and into place aligned with the cam gear timing mark. The chain should now be in place with paint marked links one on the crank gear timing mark the other on the cam gear timing mark. While holding the chain tight install the chain tensioner under the chain guide and tighten both tensioner bolts. Now perform the same operation to the passenger side chain. Now visually inspect the painted links making sure that all 4 are lined up with the timing gear marks, two on the crank timing gear and one on each cam timing gear. Now remove the chain tensioner retaining pin allowing the tensioners to extend and put pressure against the chain. Reinstall HDR wheel, front cover, etc. Remember not to move the crankshaft through out all this leaving it's keyway at 12:00 through out the entire process. This is one of those things that once you do it you and get the hang of it it's quite easy. No need for special cam locks and or anything else. Good luck.
 
  #21  
Old 12-11-2015, 06:12 PM
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When your at TDC where should the drivers side cam be set at?
 
  #22  
Old 12-12-2015, 06:05 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 4
Heads are on....

Well the heads are on all timing marks are lined up I'm hoping everything else goes good thank you to all for the help I'll keep you posted...



Originally Posted by Bluejay View Post
Posted by Dynotech

In regards to cam timing. Remove cam covers, damper and front cover. Do not remove chains,chain tensioners, or guides yet. Now rotate the crankshaft so the crank keyway is at 12:00. IMPORTANT! Do not move the crankshaft again until both chains,tensioners and guides have been reinstalled and tensioners released. Now remove the chain tensioners and chains. The pistons will all be low enough in the bores with the crank in this position so you can reinstall heads and rotate the cams to set the timing without bending valves. Two ways of finding the correct links to place on the crank and cam timing marks. Look carefully and you should be able to find two darker links on each chain each 180 degs from each other. Those would be the original copper colored timing links. The best way is to lay each chain down flat on a table and pull them lengthwise so you have two parallel rows of links tight against each other. At each end you will have one link facing the opposite direction of the two rows of links. There will be an equal number of links in each row making these end links the two you want to mark with a paint pen. They will be the links that are placed on the timing marks, one on the cam gear and one on the crank gear timing mark. Install the cam timing gears and crank timing gears. Now place the driverside chain with paint marked link on the crank timing gear mark. Holding the chain move it up to the cam gear and while rotating the cam timing gear only NOT THE CRANK! align the other painted chain link up with the cam gear timing mark and place it over the timing gear and into place aligned with the cam gear timing mark. The chain should now be in place with paint marked links one on the crank gear timing mark the other on the cam gear timing mark. While holding the chain tight install the chain tensioner under the chain guide and tighten both tensioner bolts. Now perform the same operation to the passenger side chain. Now visually inspect the painted links making sure that all 4 are lined up with the timing gear marks, two on the crank timing gear and one on each cam timing gear. Now remove the chain tensioner retaining pin allowing the tensioners to extend and put pressure against the chain. Reinstall HDR wheel, front cover, etc. Remember not to move the crankshaft through out all this leaving it's keyway at 12:00 through out the entire process. This is one of those things that once you do it you and get the hang of it it's quite easy. No need for special cam locks and or anything else. Good luck.
 
  #23  
Old 12-14-2015, 05:23 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 4
Valve covers are on



Well I'm ready to put on the intake water pump pulls radiator ect.
 
  #24  
Old 04-12-2016, 10:58 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1
Originally Posted by Bluejay View Post
Posted by Dynotech

In regards to cam timing. Remove cam covers, damper and front cover. Do not remove chains,chain tensioners, or guides yet. Now rotate the crankshaft so the crank keyway is at 12:00. IMPORTANT! Do not move the crankshaft again until both chains,tensioners and guides have been reinstalled and tensioners released. Now remove the chain tensioners and chains. The pistons will all be low enough in the bores with the crank in this position so you can reinstall heads and rotate the cams to set the timing without bending valves. Two ways of finding the correct links to place on the crank and cam timing marks. Look carefully and you should be able to find two darker links on each chain each 180 degs from each other. Those would be the original copper colored timing links. The best way is to lay each chain down flat on a table and pull them lengthwise so you have two parallel rows of links tight against each other. At each end you will have one link facing the opposite direction of the two rows of links. There will be an equal number of links in each row making these end links the two you want to mark with a paint pen. They will be the links that are placed on the timing marks, one on the cam gear and one on the crank gear timing mark. Install the cam timing gears and crank timing gears. Now place the driverside chain with paint marked link on the crank timing gear mark. Holding the chain move it up to the cam gear and while rotating the cam timing gear only NOT THE CRANK! align the other painted chain link up with the cam gear timing mark and place it over the timing gear and into place aligned with the cam gear timing mark. The chain should now be in place with paint marked links one on the crank gear timing mark the other on the cam gear timing mark. While holding the chain tight install the chain tensioner under the chain guide and tighten both tensioner bolts. Now perform the same operation to the passenger side chain. Now visually inspect the painted links making sure that all 4 are lined up with the timing gear marks, two on the crank timing gear and one on each cam timing gear. Now remove the chain tensioner retaining pin allowing the tensioners to extend and put pressure against the chain. Reinstall HDR wheel, front cover, etc. Remember not to move the crankshaft through out all this leaving it's keyway at 12:00 through out the entire process. This is one of those things that once you do it you and get the hang of it it's quite easy. No need for special cam locks and or anything else. Good luck.
I have bought a new timing kit for my 03 4.6 but the new cam gears have really short keyways compared to the originals, have I ordered something wrong
 
  #25  
Old 10-10-2016, 12:36 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 2
need help

i just bought an 03 f150 lariat 5.4l 7700 series vin code L windsor. i needed to replace the head gasket, why does the keyway need to be in the 12 oclock position when the #1 piston is at top dead center with the keyway in the 11 oclock position, my timing marks line up but the cam seems to rotate then stops like u hit a wall, is this because the key way was at 11 instead of 12 and these being interference heads and piston and valve are stopping the cam from complete rotation?
 
  #26  
Old 02-21-2017, 10:43 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 3
Did you ever figure that out cause I'm having the same problem
 
  #27  
Old 02-21-2017, 10:52 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 3
Why does the keyway need to be at 12 o'clock when it says to have it 11 o'clock # 6 piston is hitting the valves I am so lost and confused and can't find anything about this
 
  #28  
Old 02-22-2017, 11:01 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 2
crankshaft timing mark must be at 6 o'clock position which i believe the keyway is about 11 passenger side cam timming mark will be roughly 11 oclock and driverside will be roughly 1 oclock once you have all set with tensioners rotate all should be clear
 
  #29  
Old 02-22-2017, 11:12 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 3
12oclock looking at it What way? Because I thought I had it right and #6 piston is hitting the valves
 
  #30  
Old 06-02-2017, 09:01 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 1
Angry 98 f150 4.6L No compression on cylinder 2,3,5 &8

So I have "rebuilt" my engine and I use that term loosely. I have no compression on cylinder 2,3,5 and 8. We think we had the timing right - followed the shop manual - when putting the engine back together and I'm wondering if it could be a symptom f having the cam shafts switched onto the wrong heads instead of timing. The reason I suspect that is when I got the heads back from the machine shop they had the one cam shaft on backwards and the sprockets indicated that they were on the wrong heads. Now I'm wondering if they switched sprockets and had the right shafts on the right heads. Could this be the issue or are both these cam shafts identical or is everything pointing towards my timing being out. We never felt the valves hit at all so I'm not sure if we got lucky or if my valves are trashed at this point.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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