My rear window motor quite working. I tried the suggestions I found by searching on the site, none helped. I tore the back seat out and did some electrical troubleshooting... and narrowed it down to something internal to the motor... not a switch or connector issue.

What I found was one of the internal motor wires from the back of the connector to the motor itself was broken. Here is how I fixed it.


Remove the motor from the truck. There are other links to show how to remove the back seat and get to the motor... sorry I don't have the link... doing pretty good just to get the images in!! Remove the three screws shown in this image with an allen wrench. You still wont be able to remove the motor... see next image...



Remove the output shaft end cap. This will allow the worm gear to disengage with the driven gear and allow you to take the motor off of the assembly to get to the wires. Remember how tight the end cap screw is, it acts as a bearing for the output shaft, it needs to just touch the end of the shaft. I did mine by feel. I think if I had it apart again I would leave the three screws holding the motor to the gear assembly, screw the endcap in until it slight pushed the motor back, then back it out until the motor seated back onto the gear assembly.


This is what I found, the broken Red wire. This one shows the output shaft with the worm gear on it.


A better shot of the broken wire.



The new wire soldered in and it works again!! I know.... its the wrong color, but its all had.

 

Update - my window was still intermittent and slow after fixing the motor. Even when it would open and shut, it was very slow like the motor had no torque. When I would run the motor only, dismounted from the cable spool, with the switch it would run slow most times, sometimes fast and may slow after running a few seconds and stop. If I connected the motor direct to the battery it ran fast and consistent in both directions. So... the motor is good now and when I would check for voltage at the motor connector, it was always present when I would push the switch.... something in the circuit limiting current???.... so I took the switch out and cleaned it per the link below.... Wa la... works like new, spins the window open and shut quickly... EVERY time!

There was a lot of arcing residue built up on the contacts point which apparently would allow voltage to show on light loads, i.e. volt meter/test light, but would not supply enough current for the motor to open and close the window. I suppose with the motor wire being bad, the switch was actuated a lot trying to get it to open or close (I know I did) and built up a lot of arcing material.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...ow-switch.html

 

Great post .... often a part a dealership would replace and charge big $$$ for is a simple fix if one has the drive to investigate a little further.

 

nice post! and welcome back

 

I had the same problem thank you!

 

I just cleaned all of my switch contacts and its amazing how well my windows work now!

 

Cool. Glad others are finding it helpful.
I think the dirty switch issue is the reason for most rear windows not opening and closing well. Mine went from slow/intermittent, to not working at all, after the motor fix it went back to intermittent. After the switch cleaning it zips open and closed!

 

I occasionally pull the main drivers side switch for the same issue. After a good cleaning, it'll last three or so years before I have to do it again.

 

I hate the electrical sliding back window. Mine rattles, I took it to a dealership and they said they fixed it, but a couple months later it was the same problem. If I had it to do over again I'd just replace it with the solid back glass.

 

What were the symptoms? Completely stopped or intermittent? I'm trying to figure out oy 04 super crew's problem. It rolls down with the door switch only, not the drivers master switch and neither switch will roll it up. I tend to think the motor is good because it rolls down smoothly with no problem. I cleaned the master and rear door switch and everything seems to be working as it should. The switch sends power all the way to the connection at the moter plug harness (i tested it and get 12v all the way to the harness in the up and down position). Rolls down perfect but the up switch does absolutely nothing. I was sure I'd find a no fire situation at the motor but thats not the case. Any ideas are apreciated, its literally freezing here so I'm desperate to fix this. Thanks

 

Your symptom are most likely the main drivers switch. What happens is the power flowing through the switch archs every time you press a button either down or up and slowly builds up ash on the connections. If your tech savvy pull apart the main switch and clean the connectors that look like a see-saw wavvy metal thingy .

 

Also, too much arching can deteriate those little connections and then it's time to replace the switch.

To test, pull apart the switch (should pull the buttons and that top portion to reveal the rockers underneath and you can rotate the metal see-saw wavy things to see if the window only rolls up then that's the problem.

If I find my old switch I'll post a pic.

 

The symptoms I had were that I would have voltage to the motor, but it still wouldn't run at all. I don't remember if I tried to Ohm out the motor or not, typically I would have. Then other times it would work great, then another time it would barely open or close, might have to help it and other times it would start to open or close then it would just stop and no amount of fiddling with the switch would get it to go. It was like it was possessed.

I did both fixes at the same time, cleaned the switch and fixed the wire. All of my symptoms went away and haven't had a problem since.

I would agree that most of the time its the switches and cleaning them fixes the slow or intermittent issues.