Shaving the tailgate on my 2011 F150
#1
#7
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#8
There is nothing wrong with filler over paint it helps to reduce paint edges by allowing everything to feather and with the filler out today it is ok. If you don't mind me asking what do you do for a living?
#10
I'm a bodyman. Have been for nearly 20 years. I am aware that it is deemed "OK" by the reps, but it is not recommended. Nowhere on the can, or on it's product sheet will you find it saying it is recommended. It promotes sinking, and is a bad idea, if you can avoid it. Especially on a black truck.I wouldn't do that to my truck, and I wouldn't do it to any customers truck. Anyone who has told you it is ok is a salesman. It is a bad practice, but heh, it's your truck. I'd still cut out the paint under it and re-putty it before I primed it. That would never fly in my shop. I'd be fired.
#11
I'm a bodyman. Have been for nearly 20 years. I am aware that it is deemed "OK" by the reps, but it is not recommended. Nowhere on the can, or on it's product sheet will you find it saying it is recommended. It promotes sinking, and is a bad idea, if you can avoid it. Especially on a black truck.I wouldn't do that to my truck, and I wouldn't do it to any customers truck. Anyone who has told you it is ok is a salesman. It is a bad practice, but heh, it's your truck. I'd still cut out the paint under it and re-putty it before I primed it. That would never fly in my shop. I'd be fired.
#12
I do agree with you that the z grip and rage are to be applied straight to metal but we use quantum 1 and it was designed to go straight over paint. It bites better and finishes better when done that way. Now if you want to go by the book proper way is to take it all down to bare metal and apply an epoxy primer then do your filler work, you should actually not apply straight to bare metal because the bond does not seal and protect against rust to the metal underneath.
#13
I am a bodyman too been doing it for almost 15 years so not my first go around at this. Built a lot of customs and have never had an issue. The same goes for primer and if you had an issue after paint prep and had to reapply filler would you take all the primer off or go over the primer?
Although it does state that OEM paint is an approved substrate, the instructions for use clearly state :
PREPARATION:
Clean and degrease the entire panel to be repaired with soap and water, followed by wax and grease remover or a cleaning solvent. Thoroughly dry surface before repairing.
Keep the repair area small. Sand the repair area with 80 grit sandpaper, removing the paint.
Use 180 grit sandpaper to sand and featheredge the paint.
Like I said earlier, I don't know of a single solitary product that recommends you use it over paint. I do know that some shops spray a epoxy before filler, but I am yet to find a product that in black and white recommends this practice either. I'm sure that by the time you are done, all will look just fine. To each his own. If you can provide a product sheet that you are using that states it is best to apply the putty directly over feathered paint, I will gladly eat my words. I would love to learn something here. I don't by any means know, or pretend to know it all. I do however think that I would do it differently.
What sort of issue could you have after paint prep? If a problem was found, it would only be after a long board was to have boarded off all the primer anyways. As long as there was primer on the area, I would work the primer. If after that, the primer showed problems, and I was through it anyways, then I would feather the primer back out of my way yes.
Putty over paint causes sinkage issues. Especially on a black truck, which makes everything more visible. You know that better than most around here.
Nice weld job by the way. Your patch panel looks fantastic in pictures.
Peace.
#14