I have a Screw with a 12" Pioneer Sub behind the rear seats, the model of the sub is TS-SW1241D. This sub handles 350W RMS and 1400 max at 4 ohms. The shop that built the Sub box sells only JL Audio, they want to put in a JL 500.1 to power the sub. Is this overkill, BTW they want $500 bucks for the amp. I currently have a Kicker zx300.1 that puts out only 150 rms @ 4 ohms. I can get a Kicker zx750.1 that puts out 375rms@ 4 ohms for $240. I am leaning toward the kicker unless someone can convince me to spend the extra $250 bucks. Thanks for the input guys.

 

The JL is a better quality amp in my opinion, but as you can see, you WILL pay for it-JL is pretty proud of there stuff.
Another cool thing about the JL is it will do 500wrms from 1.5-4 ohm, where as someting like the Kicker will just do a certian wattage at a certian impedence. Dont get me wrong though, the Kicker is still a nice amp.
The JL is on the higher side for power....Im not sure how well those Pioneers take to more power than they are rated for, but if your not careful it could cause problems...if you set it up right and just be smart you would most likely never have a problem though.

It sounds like money is a concern for you, so honestly I would just get the Kicker. Half the cost, and will more than do the job.

 

Look Down. You really only need a 250/1 though or 300/2.

 

Does JL Audio under rate their amps? Why would I get a 250 watt amp when the sub can handle 350? Are the JL amps so much better than the kicker??? Thanks. Adam

 

Let me put it to you this way. The 500.1 I have seen make right at 695.4 Watts. JL rates it at 500x1 @ 1.5 - 4 ohms. I have that on one JL 10W6v2. The 300/2 or 250/1 will do fine... And Pioneer subs the numbers dont fit as well as Pioneer claims...

Faith my son Faith.

 

Thanks alot for the input. I was wondering about going the route of the 450/4v2. Bridge the 1&2 for the sub and install jl vr' components in the front doors and amp em with the 3&4 channel. Is this a better route than buying the 250 and an additional amp for the components? What about the 500/5? Should I dedicate one amp totally to the sub? Thanks a lot!!!!

 

Hmm.... That is a good question. I would prefer the two amp setup. The 300/4 and 250/1 or 300/2 would be good. The 300's are the same size and look really good w/ fins away from each other. Im selling my XR's, 10W6v2, and possibly my amps if it matters any. (NOT to threadjack in to a sales lead) But PM/email me and let me know.

 

Do you have pics of the xr's. I had the box built behind the rear seats so I am really limited to what sub I can use I wanted to try and retain a somewhat stock look. How old are the xr's and what size and model. I noticed on JL's site thay have cs's and cx's in the vr line, which are better cs's or cx's and does it really matter? I have had a few systems in the past but this will be the first time that I amp the mids and highs. Are the crossovers easy to dial in? The shop I go to says they will fine tune the crossovers for optimum listening? Does that make sense? I am new to Components. They recommended I get a 6.5 for the door ( the one with the tweeter attached to it) and install a tweeter in the A pillar? What do you think. Thanks

 

JL always under-rates their amps, and their amps will always work at what they are rated for... unlike some amps that only put out the numbers listed under very specific conditions..

Think HP numbers for engines...

 

you wont need either of those amps. u can use a cheapy on the sub. very over-rated output. a solid 200 watts will blow that speaker to pieces. make sure you are not used a sealed box on the sub as well. its designed for a ported box

 

Im sure i could get you some pictures... I fit my 10W6 behind the backseat of an old body reg cab. Sure it could prolly fit.. 6.9'' Mounting depth. CSi - Seperates, CXi - coaxials.
I prefer seperates because you can adjust tweeter levels, mount the tweeter in optimum places. Etc... If you have a good ear and knowledge of audio - yes they are easy to set.

As for your shop they are in it for the money, I highly disagree with a coax spk and extra tweets. Its not going to be right. Just tinny blah. They want the extra sale and install...

Sick a sealed will work. Promise ya that.

 

Is this true about this sub???? Does anyone know about Pioneer subs? This is news to me about the over-rated power of the 12" sub. And yes it is in a sealed box. Is there some way to find documented performance of this sub and the true rms? I've heard people running 300+rms to it with what they call great results?????

 

For whatd youd pay for the JL id look into kicker SX line, they all got dsp which you propablly dont need but its still pretty cool. And you won't have an amp with JL on it, lol I guess i've never really seen the point in buying something you already know is overpriced due to the name, but thats another story.

 

ninja resurrected? was on the first page for me, sorry.

 

I vote for JL. I've had tons of their stuff and would go back to them in a heart beat. Currently have all JL Audio speakers in my truck and Memphis amps. I've had JL Audio amps in my mustang and got a lot of compliments.