LOC Line output converter install with pics
#1
LOC Line output converter install with pics
I've been searching for a few days and didn't really see what I wanted visually, so I took some install pics.
This is what you need (or something like it) to install an amp to factory system. This LOC converts high level to low level (rca's)
If you look at the pics, you cut the factory speaker wires (or buy a harness, and a reverse harness to avoid cutting factory stuff) and route them into this LOC. Got mine at Crutchfield for $20.
Then you will have to run RCA's to the back, and then speaker wire back to the front to the other side of the speaker wires that you cut to send the amplified signal out to the speakers.
I'm sure there are many other ways to do this. Turned out good, sounds awesome.
Here is a copied post of the speaker wire colors. Mine is an 07 SCREW LAriat.
My Remote wire was the Green with yellow, in one of the pics. If trying to find switched power, be sure to have the door open when you do it.
Enjoy-
Radio Ignition pink/black or lt. green/yellow + radio harness
LF Speaker +/- orange/lt. grn - lt. blue/wht +,- radio harness
RF Speaker +/- white/lt. grn - dk. green/org +,- radio harness
LR Speaker +/- gray/lt. blue - tan/yellow +,- radio harness
RR Speaker +/- orange/red - brown/pink +,- radio harness
[IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f156/dtrain475/IMG_1250.jpg[/IMG
This is what you need (or something like it) to install an amp to factory system. This LOC converts high level to low level (rca's)
If you look at the pics, you cut the factory speaker wires (or buy a harness, and a reverse harness to avoid cutting factory stuff) and route them into this LOC. Got mine at Crutchfield for $20.
Then you will have to run RCA's to the back, and then speaker wire back to the front to the other side of the speaker wires that you cut to send the amplified signal out to the speakers.
I'm sure there are many other ways to do this. Turned out good, sounds awesome.
Here is a copied post of the speaker wire colors. Mine is an 07 SCREW LAriat.
My Remote wire was the Green with yellow, in one of the pics. If trying to find switched power, be sure to have the door open when you do it.
Enjoy-
Radio Ignition pink/black or lt. green/yellow + radio harness
LF Speaker +/- orange/lt. grn - lt. blue/wht +,- radio harness
RF Speaker +/- white/lt. grn - dk. green/org +,- radio harness
LR Speaker +/- gray/lt. blue - tan/yellow +,- radio harness
RR Speaker +/- orange/red - brown/pink +,- radio harness
[IMG]http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f156/dtrain475/IMG_1250.jpg[/IMG
#4
#5
Ok... I am little confused. I have never messed with LOC's or anything. I am debating on getting a new HU just so I don't have to. But then you posted this. Do you mind getting a little more detailed?
Why do you have 2 sets of rca's? I see that it says R&L rear and R&L front. But where do those connect? I assume to the amp which has 2 rca connections correct?
Also, the purpose of the LOC is so that you can keep the stock HU and the stock speaker wiring correct?
Why do you have 2 sets of rca's? I see that it says R&L rear and R&L front. But where do those connect? I assume to the amp which has 2 rca connections correct?
Also, the purpose of the LOC is so that you can keep the stock HU and the stock speaker wiring correct?
#6
Most 4 channel amps will have 4 (rca)ch inputs, therefore using all 4 rca runs from a LOC. It will retain fading and balance controls accurately.
Now if using a 2 ch amp or amp with 2 ch inputs then 4 ch LOC would not needed or use all 4 rca's.
Depends on setup, maybe 4 ch amp with 2 for mid/high and other 2 for sub, then fade controls would be lost.
If you're only adding amp for sub, and powering doors with HU, then the LOC's that are pictured provide "pass-thru" for that setup as well.
In my case, I'm using 6 ch amp, 4 ch for mid/high, 2(bridged) for sub. The fade control on radio is used by the amp the blend levels between sub and door speakers.
Using factory wiring back to door speakers is easiest, but not as optimum as using quality speaker wire. I don't worry about it because I'm using stock HU. If I wanted better quality sound, I'd start with new HU first.
Now if using a 2 ch amp or amp with 2 ch inputs then 4 ch LOC would not needed or use all 4 rca's.
Depends on setup, maybe 4 ch amp with 2 for mid/high and other 2 for sub, then fade controls would be lost.
If you're only adding amp for sub, and powering doors with HU, then the LOC's that are pictured provide "pass-thru" for that setup as well.
In my case, I'm using 6 ch amp, 4 ch for mid/high, 2(bridged) for sub. The fade control on radio is used by the amp the blend levels between sub and door speakers.
Using factory wiring back to door speakers is easiest, but not as optimum as using quality speaker wire. I don't worry about it because I'm using stock HU. If I wanted better quality sound, I'd start with new HU first.
#7
Most 4 channel amps will have 4 (rca)ch inputs, therefore using all 4 rca runs from a LOC. It will retain fading and balance controls accurately.
Now if using a 2 ch amp or amp with 2 ch inputs then 4 ch LOC would not needed or use all 4 rca's.
Depends on setup, maybe 4 ch amp with 2 for mid/high and other 2 for sub, then fade controls would be lost.
If you're only adding amp for sub, and powering doors with HU, then the LOC's that are pictured provide "pass-thru" for that setup as well.
In my case, I'm using 6 ch amp, 4 ch for mid/high, 2(bridged) for sub. The fade control on radio is used by the amp the blend levels between sub and door speakers.
Using factory wiring back to door speakers is easiest, but not as optimum as using quality speaker wire. I don't worry about it because I'm using stock HU. If I wanted better quality sound, I'd start with new HU first.
Now if using a 2 ch amp or amp with 2 ch inputs then 4 ch LOC would not needed or use all 4 rca's.
Depends on setup, maybe 4 ch amp with 2 for mid/high and other 2 for sub, then fade controls would be lost.
If you're only adding amp for sub, and powering doors with HU, then the LOC's that are pictured provide "pass-thru" for that setup as well.
In my case, I'm using 6 ch amp, 4 ch for mid/high, 2(bridged) for sub. The fade control on radio is used by the amp the blend levels between sub and door speakers.
Using factory wiring back to door speakers is easiest, but not as optimum as using quality speaker wire. I don't worry about it because I'm using stock HU. If I wanted better quality sound, I'd start with new HU first.
I just bought Polk db 651's for the front doors. I want to buy 2 more 5x7's for the back.
Then I want to run a 4 ch amp just for the door speakers. I would like to put in my own speaker wire.
I do plan on running a seperate amp for a sub later.
So if I run my own speaker wire then how will the LOC wiring work out? I want to keep the stock HU for security purposes.
Sorry for the noob questions!
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#8
Should the LOC wiring still stay the same as this?
Radio Ignition pink/black or lt. green/yellow + radio harness
LF Speaker +/- orange/lt. grn - lt. blue/wht +,- radio harness
RF Speaker +/- white/lt. grn - dk. green/org +,- radio harness
LR Speaker +/- gray/lt. blue - tan/yellow +,- radio harness
RR Speaker +/- orange/red - brown/pink +,- radio harness
Then just run my speaker wire to my amp?
Radio Ignition pink/black or lt. green/yellow + radio harness
LF Speaker +/- orange/lt. grn - lt. blue/wht +,- radio harness
RF Speaker +/- white/lt. grn - dk. green/org +,- radio harness
LR Speaker +/- gray/lt. blue - tan/yellow +,- radio harness
RR Speaker +/- orange/red - brown/pink +,- radio harness
Then just run my speaker wire to my amp?
#9
#10
"If you look at the pics, you cut the factory speaker wires (or buy a harness, and a reverse harness to avoid cutting factory stuff) and route them into this LOC. Got mine at Crutchfield for $20."
So I can get a harness from Crutchfield so i don't have to cutt the wires?
#11
You've got it. An install harness, and a reverse harness. Reverse harness will duplicate the factory one in the dash. Just pass thru all the power and control circuits between the connectors. Then the speaker wires on the reverse harness side (the one that actually plugs into HU) will go to the LOC.
Your speaker wires from amp have nothing to do with this conversion since you will be running your own to the speakers (bypassing going back into dash harness).
Your speaker wires from amp have nothing to do with this conversion since you will be running your own to the speakers (bypassing going back into dash harness).
#14
#15
ok so you are saying that you don't need a LOC if you have speaker level inputs or do you need both?