First oil change for new Ecoboost?
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From: Near Cincinnati, OH
Motorkote. Gotta love a clown that wants to demo LUBRICITY with a Timken Bearing Extreme Pressure test unit. That's kinda like using a thermometer to tell how fast yer truck is going. Motorkote is owned by Great Brands....who also owns Duralube. This is one of the scam companies that makes broad claims to milk the unknowing from their money. Wanna screw up yer engine? Here's the product to do it with. From Wearcheck Canada, who did extensive testing of it for a client who lost a diesel engine that made the results public, it is 283,700ppms CHLORINE. That's 28.4% in volume, chlorine. As we've chatted here before, chlorine does not belong in any crankcase unless you just like corrosion. Combined with combustion gases you'll get a healthy dose of hydrochloric acid. This is another one of those companies that will make absurd claims and when the going gets tough in the legal dept, they'll just change the name on the bottle again and keep screwing folks out of their hard earned money. So in short, this is in the running for The Snake Oil Award.
Forgot to mention, Liqui-moly. You understand that it's molydenum disufide, right? That's a crystalline dry lubricant and has no place in an engine. Liqui-moly are crystals ground to 3 microns averagely. It doesn't take long and this stuff is in the oil filter, not in the oil. It is not the same as the moly used in most oil formulations. That would be molydenum dialkldthiocarbamate which is a clear liquid.
Forgot to mention, Liqui-moly. You understand that it's molydenum disufide, right? That's a crystalline dry lubricant and has no place in an engine. Liqui-moly are crystals ground to 3 microns averagely. It doesn't take long and this stuff is in the oil filter, not in the oil. It is not the same as the moly used in most oil formulations. That would be molydenum dialkldthiocarbamate which is a clear liquid.
By the way Labnerd...using that oil, what would be a reasonable oil change interval for my light duty driving? Mix of highway and back roads...no towing and low elevation (Cincinnati area). Change every 7,500 miles?...more than that?
Last edited by lariatf150; Jun 27, 2014 at 08:57 PM.
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From: Sierra Vista, Az.
Thanks for the input. I'll save my money and take the bite on the $48 or so for 6 quarts of the Pennzoil Ultra. I see it on Amazon for $48 for a pack of 6 quarts and I have Amazon Prime, so free shipping. I see Walmart has it too, but their web site says in stores only and there's no price listed. I'll stop by and check their price too.
By the way Labnerd...using that oil, what would be a reasonable oil change interval for my light duty driving? Mix of highway and back roads...no towing and low elevation (Cincinnati area). Change every 7,500 miles?...more than that?
By the way Labnerd...using that oil, what would be a reasonable oil change interval for my light duty driving? Mix of highway and back roads...no towing and low elevation (Cincinnati area). Change every 7,500 miles?...more than that?
Last edited by aussiekeeper; Jun 27, 2014 at 09:05 PM.
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From: So. Texas
I wouldn't push any oil past the recommended 7500 OCI including the extended change motor oils. Some of these EB engines are shearing oil pretty bad. There are a lot of high stress pulses in these little engines making big power. Heat and shearing are ripping the oils apart which is why this engine requires a 5w-30 rather than the Ford normal 5w-20. The 5w-30 has a higher HTHS rating at the main bearings where shearing is worse.
My expectations is that Ford is going to address all issues with the 3.5 EB problem by dropping the 3.5 engine. They have a much better 3.7 EB that they can detune to the same power level but it's a much lower stress engine in that configuration. This engine is coming out in the Lincoln making 450HP.
Aussie, putting any moly additive in an engine is not smart. The MO2 that you are using ends up being filtered out after just a few miles. There has never been an MO2 additive that worked in any engine. It's like throwing a can of dirt and oil in the engine as the MO2 is a dry powder lube just like graphite. It does not work despite many makers attempts. Save the bucks.
My expectations is that Ford is going to address all issues with the 3.5 EB problem by dropping the 3.5 engine. They have a much better 3.7 EB that they can detune to the same power level but it's a much lower stress engine in that configuration. This engine is coming out in the Lincoln making 450HP.
Aussie, putting any moly additive in an engine is not smart. The MO2 that you are using ends up being filtered out after just a few miles. There has never been an MO2 additive that worked in any engine. It's like throwing a can of dirt and oil in the engine as the MO2 is a dry powder lube just like graphite. It does not work despite many makers attempts. Save the bucks.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Sierra Vista, Az.
I wouldn't push any oil past the recommended 7500 OCI including the extended change motor oils. Some of these EB engines are shearing oil pretty bad. There are a lot of high stress pulses in these little engines making big power. Heat and shearing are ripping the oils apart which is why this engine requires a 5w-30 rather than the Ford normal 5w-20. The 5w-30 has a higher HTHS rating at the main bearings where shearing is worse.
My expectations is that Ford is going to address all issues with the 3.5 EB problem by dropping the 3.5 engine. They have a much better 3.7 EB that they can detune to the same power level but it's a much lower stress engine in that configuration. This engine is coming out in the Lincoln making 450HP.
Aussie, putting any moly additive in an engine is not smart. The MO2 that you are using ends up being filtered out after just a few miles. There has never been an MO2 additive that worked in any engine. It's like throwing a can of dirt and oil in the engine as the MO2 is a dry powder lube just like graphite. It does not work despite many makers attempts. Save the bucks.
My expectations is that Ford is going to address all issues with the 3.5 EB problem by dropping the 3.5 engine. They have a much better 3.7 EB that they can detune to the same power level but it's a much lower stress engine in that configuration. This engine is coming out in the Lincoln making 450HP.
Aussie, putting any moly additive in an engine is not smart. The MO2 that you are using ends up being filtered out after just a few miles. There has never been an MO2 additive that worked in any engine. It's like throwing a can of dirt and oil in the engine as the MO2 is a dry powder lube just like graphite. It does not work despite many makers attempts. Save the bucks.
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From: Near Cincinnati, OH
I wouldn't push any oil past the recommended 7500 OCI including the extended change motor oils. Some of these EB engines are shearing oil pretty bad. There are a lot of high stress pulses in these little engines making big power. Heat and shearing are ripping the oils apart which is why this engine requires a 5w-30 rather than the Ford normal 5w-20. The 5w-30 has a higher HTHS rating at the main bearings where shearing is worse.
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By the way, I found the Penzzoil Ultra Platinum (with 'Pure Plus' - the type made from natural gas) at my local WalMart for just over $25 for a 5 quart jug. That's only around $5 per quart...the cheapest I've seen it anyway. I picked up an individual quart also to make it 6 quarts. That individual quart bottle was just over $7. FL500S filter was just over $9. All in stock. All together, just around $43 for great oil and filter.
Last edited by lariatf150; Jun 28, 2014 at 12:15 PM.
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From: San Angelo, TX
Pennzoil must have came a long way since a few years ago.. When i bought my 03 Kr the ford mechanic did a oil change and when the truck was done he asked what oil i used,i told him valvoline or motorcraft.. he said that was good and to never use pennzoil, then he pointed to 4 vehicles and said all of em are getting a new engine due to sludge buildup and they all had pennzoil oil in it.. Since then i have never considered pennzoil.
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From: Sierra Vista, Az.
Pennzoil must have came a long way since a few years ago.. When i bought my 03 Kr the ford mechanic did a oil change and when the truck was done he asked what oil i used,i told him valvoline or motorcraft.. he said that was good and to never use pennzoil, then he pointed to 4 vehicles and said all of em are getting a new engine due to sludge buildup and they all had pennzoil oil in it.. Since then i have never considered pennzoil.
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From: Near Cincinnati, OH
Pennzoil must have came a long way since a few years ago.. When i bought my 03 Kr the ford mechanic did a oil change and when the truck was done he asked what oil i used,i told him valvoline or motorcraft.. he said that was good and to never use pennzoil, then he pointed to 4 vehicles and said all of em are getting a new engine due to sludge buildup and they all had pennzoil oil in it.. Since then i have never considered pennzoil.
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I hear ya. I'l admit I'm temped to just stick with the Motorcraft 5w30 synthetic blend (and I definitely would in a normal engine), but I'm also paranoid about getting future problems with carbon buildup on the intake valves the PCV dumps into (and labnerd says this Pennzoil we're talking about would do better at not building up the crud like normal oil)...and overall, just having two turbos spinning around I imagine that's very tough on oil. I just want to play it safe and give it really good oil since I plan on keeping it for 10-12 years. I normally wouldn't worry about using a certain oil as long as I was using 'good' oil, but since this is a high performance twin turbo, well, you know...
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By the way...draining the oil....
Question.
I've heard people say if you put the truck on ramps, the oil from the filter will only drain from the rear and it's easier to keep from making a mess. Does that mean if the front is on ramps on an otherwise level driveway, the oil from the filter spout is not going to also dump all over inside that aluminum pan mounted under the engine and it'll flow directly out through that hole you open up by removing the big cover on the bottom of the aluminum skidplate/cover?...or is there no way to avoid that?
Question.
I've heard people say if you put the truck on ramps, the oil from the filter will only drain from the rear and it's easier to keep from making a mess. Does that mean if the front is on ramps on an otherwise level driveway, the oil from the filter spout is not going to also dump all over inside that aluminum pan mounted under the engine and it'll flow directly out through that hole you open up by removing the big cover on the bottom of the aluminum skidplate/cover?...or is there no way to avoid that?
Last edited by lariatf150; Jun 28, 2014 at 02:43 PM.
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By the way, I found the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (with 'Pure Plus' - the type made from natural gas) at my local Walmart for just over $25 for a 5 quart jug. That's only around $5 per quart...the cheapest I've seen it anyway. I picked up an individual quart also to make it 6 quarts. That individual quart bottle was just over $7. FL500S filter was just over $9. All in stock. All together, just around $43 for great oil and filter.
I think I'll stick to the readily available Pennzoil Platinum (made with natural gas) at oil changes around 5,000 miles or so. I think that would work out well.
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From: Indiana
Have lots of cardboard on the floor when you do the first oil change. When I did mine the oil hit the sway bar and sprayed everywhere. The second time I had the fumoto valve, but it wasn't in yet... so I used a bunch of cardboard to channel the oil down into the pan.
Yesterday I did my first oil change with the fumoto valve (3rd overall oil change) and it was a piece of cake - stick a piece of tubing over the end of the valve, put the other end in the oil pan, and open the valve.
I think the fumoto valve took a little longer to drain, but overall I saved about 30 minutes of cleaning up oil so I'm ahead for the day!