Big Big problem!:(
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Big Big problem!:(
Hi fellas!
First of, im from sweden so bare with me with my poor languageskills whilst referring to my engineproblem.
First of, I have a 2006 f150 harley ed 4x4. About 1,5 years ago i installed a roush cai, and a custom built exhaustsystem. After the exhaust was installed i noticed that the engine wasnt running right. On a kickdown it just missfires like crazy. I just thought that was because needed some custom tunes to even out the increased air to the engine, and decreased flow in the exhaust. About a month ago I bought the SCT chip, and left the car with the tuners. Now to the problem, it turns out that the problem has something to do with that the ecu tells the engine to stop fireing while doing a kickdown. And my mecanic showed me the polygraph and it clearly shows that when you press full throttle, the ignition stops for 4 sec. He told me that he switched of the function that is suppose to protect the gearbox from the engine, and then it worked just fine. But he told me you couldnt drive with this off, because it would ruin the gearbox. My mecanic is gonna send me a pic of the graph so you could see for yourself. Hope somebody out there can help.
Sincerely
Alexander
First of, im from sweden so bare with me with my poor languageskills whilst referring to my engineproblem.
First of, I have a 2006 f150 harley ed 4x4. About 1,5 years ago i installed a roush cai, and a custom built exhaustsystem. After the exhaust was installed i noticed that the engine wasnt running right. On a kickdown it just missfires like crazy. I just thought that was because needed some custom tunes to even out the increased air to the engine, and decreased flow in the exhaust. About a month ago I bought the SCT chip, and left the car with the tuners. Now to the problem, it turns out that the problem has something to do with that the ecu tells the engine to stop fireing while doing a kickdown. And my mecanic showed me the polygraph and it clearly shows that when you press full throttle, the ignition stops for 4 sec. He told me that he switched of the function that is suppose to protect the gearbox from the engine, and then it worked just fine. But he told me you couldnt drive with this off, because it would ruin the gearbox. My mecanic is gonna send me a pic of the graph so you could see for yourself. Hope somebody out there can help.
Sincerely
Alexander
Are you receiving any engine codes? If it were a miss-fire one would assume the CEL would be blinking.
Might want to look at obtaining an exhaust system that was specifically designed for your vehicle rather than a custom exhaust. Process of elimination ... if you only have an exhaust, intake, and tuner ... put the factory intake system back on your truck and remove the tuner. If the problem still occurs, you know it's the exhaust system.
Hope to see other reply to this post to help you out.
Good Luck!
Tom
AutoAnything
Might want to look at obtaining an exhaust system that was specifically designed for your vehicle rather than a custom exhaust. Process of elimination ... if you only have an exhaust, intake, and tuner ... put the factory intake system back on your truck and remove the tuner. If the problem still occurs, you know it's the exhaust system.
Hope to see other reply to this post to help you out.
Good Luck!
Tom
AutoAnything
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Are you receiving any engine codes? If it were a miss-fire one would assume the CEL would be blinking.
Might want to look at obtaining an exhaust system that was specifically designed for your vehicle rather than a custom exhaust. Process of elimination ... if you only have an exhaust, intake, and tuner ... put the factory intake system back on your truck and remove the tuner. If the problem still occurs, you know it's the exhaust system.
Hope to see other reply to this post to help you out.
Good Luck!
Tom
AutoAnything
Might want to look at obtaining an exhaust system that was specifically designed for your vehicle rather than a custom exhaust. Process of elimination ... if you only have an exhaust, intake, and tuner ... put the factory intake system back on your truck and remove the tuner. If the problem still occurs, you know it's the exhaust system.
Hope to see other reply to this post to help you out.
Good Luck!
Tom
AutoAnything
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,390
Likes: 10
Hi.
That's called torque management and it is indeed part of the calibration to protect the drive train between shifts. Thing is, I was always led to believe it was done primarily with a timing retard, not by turning off the spark. But a knowledgeable custom tuner can answer that definitively. (Spark and fuel IS turned off during long coasting descents ). Four seconds seems awfully lengthy for fractional-second shift timing, though...
In any event TM is a good thing - but some tuners do scale it back some, and a few will even turn it off if a customer insists.
[BTW - to run that intake safely you do need a custom calibration since it relocates the MAF an hence alters the MAF TF. ]
This guy you are using probably can't write you a new transfer function, I'm surmising.
Also - is he using a wideband A/F instrument in support of this calibration work? If not, see below, lol.
The thing that REALLY concerns me is your statement that the tuner does not know how to deal with this - which means that he has zero experience tuning F150's. Not good.
And THAT means you should run away as fast as you can. Or risk compromising your engine or drivetrain.
You will better served with a remote email tune from one of our reputed custom tuning vendors, who KNOWS this platform intimately, rather than a local feller that has NFC. It'll run right AND be safe. Local datalogging can provide all the feedback necessary to make any adjustments if required.
Meanwhile install the stock intake. I highly doubt an exhaust system will cause this (Catback) - unless you did something gross to the front O2's. (cat forward). No details so just speculating here.
If running stock you still are misfiring, get it diagnosed properly as that will also dilute yer oil, damage your cats if left unaddressed.
Good luck.
That's called torque management and it is indeed part of the calibration to protect the drive train between shifts. Thing is, I was always led to believe it was done primarily with a timing retard, not by turning off the spark. But a knowledgeable custom tuner can answer that definitively. (Spark and fuel IS turned off during long coasting descents ). Four seconds seems awfully lengthy for fractional-second shift timing, though...
In any event TM is a good thing - but some tuners do scale it back some, and a few will even turn it off if a customer insists.
[BTW - to run that intake safely you do need a custom calibration since it relocates the MAF an hence alters the MAF TF. ]
This guy you are using probably can't write you a new transfer function, I'm surmising.
Also - is he using a wideband A/F instrument in support of this calibration work? If not, see below, lol.
The thing that REALLY concerns me is your statement that the tuner does not know how to deal with this - which means that he has zero experience tuning F150's. Not good.
And THAT means you should run away as fast as you can. Or risk compromising your engine or drivetrain.
You will better served with a remote email tune from one of our reputed custom tuning vendors, who KNOWS this platform intimately, rather than a local feller that has NFC. It'll run right AND be safe. Local datalogging can provide all the feedback necessary to make any adjustments if required.
Meanwhile install the stock intake. I highly doubt an exhaust system will cause this (Catback) - unless you did something gross to the front O2's. (cat forward). No details so just speculating here.
If running stock you still are misfiring, get it diagnosed properly as that will also dilute yer oil, damage your cats if left unaddressed.
Good luck.
Last edited by MGDfan; Nov 15, 2013 at 07:43 PM.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: May 2011
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Hi.
That's called torque management and it is indeed part of the calibration to protect the drive train between shifts. Thing is, I was always led to believe it was done primarily with a timing retard, not by turning off the spark. But a knowledgeable custom tuner can answer that definitively. (Spark and fuel IS turned off during long coasting descents ). Four seconds seems awfully lengthy for fractional-second shift timing, though...
In any event TM is a good thing - but some tuners do scale it back some, and a few will even turn it off if a customer insists.
[BTW - to run that intake safely you do need a custom calibration since it relocates the MAF an hence alters the MAF TF. ]
This guy you are using probably can't write you a new transfer function, I'm surmising.
Also - is he using a wideband A/F instrument in support of this calibration work? If not, see below, lol.
The thing that REALLY concerns me is your statement that the tuner does not know how to deal with this - which means that he has zero experience tuning F150's. Not good.
And THAT means you should run away as fast as you can. Or risk compromising your engine or drivetrain.
You will better served with a remote email tune from one of our reputed custom tuning vendors, who KNOWS this platform intimately, rather than a local feller that has NFC. It'll run right AND be safe. Local datalogging can provide all the feedback necessary to make any adjustments if required.
Meanwhile install the stock intake. I highly doubt an exhaust system will cause this (Catback) - unless you did something gross to the front O2's. (cat forward). No details so just speculating here.
If running stock you still are misfiring, get it diagnosed properly as that will also dilute yer oil, damage your cats if left unaddressed.
Good luck.
That's called torque management and it is indeed part of the calibration to protect the drive train between shifts. Thing is, I was always led to believe it was done primarily with a timing retard, not by turning off the spark. But a knowledgeable custom tuner can answer that definitively. (Spark and fuel IS turned off during long coasting descents ). Four seconds seems awfully lengthy for fractional-second shift timing, though...
In any event TM is a good thing - but some tuners do scale it back some, and a few will even turn it off if a customer insists.
[BTW - to run that intake safely you do need a custom calibration since it relocates the MAF an hence alters the MAF TF. ]
This guy you are using probably can't write you a new transfer function, I'm surmising.
Also - is he using a wideband A/F instrument in support of this calibration work? If not, see below, lol.
The thing that REALLY concerns me is your statement that the tuner does not know how to deal with this - which means that he has zero experience tuning F150's. Not good.
And THAT means you should run away as fast as you can. Or risk compromising your engine or drivetrain.
You will better served with a remote email tune from one of our reputed custom tuning vendors, who KNOWS this platform intimately, rather than a local feller that has NFC. It'll run right AND be safe. Local datalogging can provide all the feedback necessary to make any adjustments if required.
Meanwhile install the stock intake. I highly doubt an exhaust system will cause this (Catback) - unless you did something gross to the front O2's. (cat forward). No details so just speculating here.
If running stock you still are misfiring, get it diagnosed properly as that will also dilute yer oil, damage your cats if left unaddressed.
Good luck.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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SCT's site does indeed discuss custom - that is one reason they have a tuning dealer locator on their homepage. - in addition to specifying how one loads tunes into the devices, datalogging, providing FREE end-user software tools, sells the Advantage end-user custom tuning suite, etc - check out the tech support section, etc.
A few respected SCT custom tuning vendors this site supports and more than a few of us use:
www.troyerperformance.com
www.morepowertuning.com
www.5startuning.com
www.gopowerhungry.com
www.vmptuning.com
I recommend that you contact one/all via email with your concerns.
Good luck!
MGD
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Got my tune from morepowertuning, and just uploaded it. Truck drives alot better, but, 3 days ago the enginelight truned on. Got a P0430. Guessing that driving with my mods without tunes probably ruined my cats or O2 sensors. So at full throttle, at 4-5000rpm you can clearly feel something is wrong, but still, alot better then before. What would be my next step. Thanks alot guys!!
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,390
Likes: 10
Got my tune from morepowertuning, and just uploaded it. Truck drives alot better, but, 3 days ago the enginelight truned on. Got a P0430. Guessing that driving with my mods without tunes probably ruined my cats or O2 sensors. So at full throttle, at 4-5000rpm you can clearly feel something is wrong, but still, alot better then before. What would be my next step. Thanks alot guys!!
Well, fer starters, get the cats and O2's tested (better yet - change the front O2's anyway - they need to be fresh ), fix what needs fiixin' , and try the tune again after clearing the PCM's KAM.
Let MPT know everything that you've done to date, and then I'd recommend you datalog so they can see what's going on in detail.
Ask MPT for their specific datalogging instructions - every tuner has their own methods and data requirements.
Good luck
MGD
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From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
Last edited by 88racing; Nov 26, 2013 at 04:49 PM.
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Decided to throw on a pair of Magnaflow catalytic converters.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...1006/overview/
And while im under there I might aswell flip the O2 sensors. And what do you guys think? Should I change all four of them (two Before, two after the CC). Would these do?
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...-150/year/2006
Best regards!
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...1006/overview/
And while im under there I might aswell flip the O2 sensors. And what do you guys think? Should I change all four of them (two Before, two after the CC). Would these do?
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...-150/year/2006
Best regards!
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 19
From: MI
See if the rears will come out easy first. Don't force them to much or you may tear up the bung thread. If it gets tight,spin it back in,start over using a catalyst to assist. Being an 06, they might spin right out after a turn.
Replacing them all is always best. You don't have to,- anytime after 100,000 miles I would.
Replacing them all is always best. You don't have to,- anytime after 100,000 miles I would.
