2010 supercrew - installed infinity kappas in the doors and havent amped them yet.......reason being, you cant just run wires thru the rubber boot on a 2010, its a plug in harness......do i just need to bite the bullet and drill holes with grommets and make some sort of boot between the door and the body of the truck?

 

You can go that route, or you can tap into the unused pins on the harness on both sides, and run your own wire through the boot again on those pins. There's a good write up on it over on diyma.

 

Why not just run SpeedWire from the 4ch amp to the existing wires behind the radio? Whole lot faster and easier...


Then you could always use harness as to not cut any factory wires...

Factory Wiring Harness <-> Metra 70-5520 Harness <-> Metra 71-5520 Reverse Harness <-> Factory Headunit
Spearker Wires from 70-5520 to channel out from amp
Speaker Wires from 71-5521 to LOC or line level in on amp


If you ever wanted to uninstall the amp, just remove the harnesses

70-5520 and 71-5520 assume 04-08 with standard radio.

 

this is exactly how i did the wiring for my amp/speakers, however i have aftermarket H/U. RCA's to back wall into amps, speedwire from amps to dash into Metra harness. much easier

 

awesome guys, thanks..........this sounds like the way to go and will give it a shot

 

I just recently installed an Alpine KTP-445U universal in-line 4ch amp. Boosts my pioneer speakers 45w per channel. Super easy install once you figure out what color wires are for each speaker.'

SPEAKER-------------------------FORD WIRE (ALPINE WIRE)
LF+ ------------------------------- white (WHITE)
LF- ------------------------------- white/black (WHITE/BLK)
RF+ ------------------------------- white/purple (GREY)
RF- ------------------------------- white/orange (GREY/BLK)
LR+ ------------------------------- White/green (GREEN)
LR- ------------------------------- Brown/Yellow (GREEN/BLK)
RR+ -------------------------------Brown/White (PURPLE)
RR- ------------------------------- Brown/Blue (PURPLE/BLK)

 

Except for stock wiring isn't meant for more than like 50-60rms watts, it's easier that way just not the best way.

 

I did the same thing on my 2010. I used the two Metra Wiring harness listed above and used speed wire to run my 4 channels to the line levelers and then the amp, and 12 gauge speaker wire out of amp back to head unit and into the factory harness. Then I used the pre amp outs on my 4 channel amp to a sub amp to run a 10. The amp woke up the Polk Audio door speaks that I put in and the entire system has been in there for 100,000 miles and never had one issue with it at all. I tuned the system where it won't clip and its been bullet proof. shakes the mirrors easily.

I would not recommend cutting holes into grommets or trying to run new wire to each door. Unless you are doing a radical custom type truck.

The hardest thing I had to do, was to figure out how to keep my steering wheel controls and sync working. I figured that out and had zero issues.